Which bell housing for TKO500?

1990LXDropTop · Jul 9, 2005

In the near future I'm going to get a new TKO500 with the 26 spline input shaft. I know I will need a new bell housing and want to make sure I get the best one for my situation. My car is my spring/summer daily driver with some mods... (see sig). Money is not an issue. Which bell housing should I get and where can I buy it? Also, does anyone know where I can buy a new cross member that will work with the TKO? I do not want to modify my stock one. Thanks!!!

1990LXDropTop · Jul 9, 2005

ECU5.0 · Jul 9, 2005

any place that sells tko trannys should have it. if you cant find it anywhere call holcomb motorsports

1990LXDropTop · Jul 9, 2005

ECU5.0 said:
any place that sells tko trannys should have it. if you cant find it anywhere call holcomb motorsports

Thank you, but my real question was which bell housing is the best to get? (Lakewood, FMS, etc.)

tunedin302 · Jul 9, 2005

McLeod (which is also a FMS) already indexed and less fitment issues. As for the x-member, get a motorsport and bolt the tranny in. Once it's in, get the x-member welded in place. A FMS x-member is just a stock one without the mounting plate welded in place. You can adjust it and then have it welded later. I would also suggest you get an extended clutch fork if you go with a scattershield. Check out Anderson or D&D for the fork.

1990LXDropTop · Jul 9, 2005

tunedin302 said:
McLeod (which is also a FMS) already indexed and less fitment issues. As for the x-member, get a motorsport and bolt the tranny in. Once it's in, get the x-member welded in place. A FMS x-member is just a stock one without the mounting plate welded in place. You can adjust it and then have it welded later. I would also suggest you get an extended clutch fork if you go with a scattershield. Check out Anderson or D&D for the fork.

What is a scattershield? I'm sorry for asking, but I am not familiar with things relating to clutches. Can someone list all the parts I need, or "should" get to do the swap? I really appreciate this, thanks again.

So far I know I need the following:

TKO500
Bell housing
Driveshaft Yoke
Cross member
Fluid

What about a driveshaft spacer? Will I need one? Will I need a new trans mount as well? Will I have to get any new bolts???

Also, I want to get a new flywheel instead of getting the stocker "resurfaced." What are the benefits of an aluminum flywheel over a steel one?

Grn92LX · Jul 10, 2005

A scattershield is a steel bellhousing designed to protect you in the event of a clutch/flywheel breakage. Its a bit more expensive and its larger. If you car about safety or plan on racing a lot, i'd get one. Like said above, the mcleod/FMS bell is a good one. I run it. It comes with all new bolts.

An aluminum flywheel has a few benefits. It will allow you to rev up faster (its about 12lbs lighter than a stocker I believe) and its less wear and tear on your rotating assembly and main bearings. I run an aluminum flywheel. If your gonna be buying a new one, i'd buy an aluminum one. If you ever build a stroker down the road, you can use it on the stroker. It comes with a 28 and 50 oz weight and a little bolt incase you run 0 balance. Only bad thing about it is its pricey.

You will not need a driveshaft spacer, thats for 94/95's with a tremec. A new trans mount is a good idea. I run prothane trans and motor mounts fyi. You will need an extended fork if you run a scattershield to keep the cable alignment perfect. You will need to grind the welds on your xmember and slide it back. Unless things changed for the newer tremecs, you will need to pick up 3 quarts of gm syncromesh fluid.

I would pick up some arp flywheel bolts. I run the higher strength ones, part # arp-200-2802

tunedin302 · Jul 10, 2005

Grn92LX said:
A scattershield is a steel bellhousing designed to protect you in the event of a clutch/flywheel breakage. Its a bit more expensive and its larger. If you car about safety or plan on racing a lot, i'd get one. Like said above, the mcleod/FMS bell is a good one. I run it. It comes with all new bolts.

An aluminum flywheel has a few benefits. It will allow you to rev up faster (its about 12lbs lighter than a stocker I believe) and its less wear and tear on your rotating assembly and main bearings. I run an aluminum flywheel. If your gonna be buying a new one, i'd buy an aluminum one. If you ever build a stroker down the road, you can use it on the stroker. It comes with a 28 and 50 oz weight and a little bolt incase you run 0 balance. Only bad thing about it is its pricey.

You will not need a driveshaft spacer, thats for 94/95's with a tremec. A new trans mount is a good idea. I run prothane trans and motor mounts fyi. You will need an extended fork if you run a scattershield to keep the cable alignment perfect. You will need to grind the welds on your xmember and slide it back. Unless things changed for the newer tremecs, you will need to pick up 3 quarts of gm syncromesh fluid.

I would pick up some arp flywheel bolts. I run the higher strength ones, part # arp-200-2802

Well said! Only part I differ with is the flywheel. A lot of people use an aluminum flywheel on the street and are very happy. I won't use an aluminum flywheel due to the loss in torque and if you ever miss a shift, the engine will continue to rev higher without the heavier mass of a steel flywheel. I would do research on both and then make an informed decision. After talking to D&D, I decided to run a Fidanza billet steel flywheel.

If you run a 26 spline input TKO on a fox, you will need:
1. Tranny
2. Bell/scattershield
3. Shifter for tremec
4. 26 spline clutch and PP (Check out McLeod)
5. Speedo gear
6. D/s yoke (I just got an alum. d/s w/ yoke on it)
7. Modified x-member
8. Replace your trans mount (Polyurethane)
9. 3 Quarts GM synchromesh for standard transmissions (black bottle)
10. New throw out and pilot bearings
11. New extended clutch fork

Grn92LX · Jul 10, 2005

I run an aluminum flywheel and as untuned as my 347 is (has maybe 10 miles on it) if I didn't tell you it has an aluminum fly in it, you wouldn't know. I bought it more so for the less wear and tear on my rotating assembly/bearings and the ability to rev higher faster with less rotating weight. I figured it would go good with my light weight balancer, ultra light rods and the mcleod DF disk is lighter than a normal valeo/fms disk

Ditto on the well said for the parts list

mike0227 · Jul 11, 2005

I did not need extended clutch fork with the stock Tremec bell housing and tko 600? Clutch works fine.

tunedin302 · Jul 12, 2005

mike0227 said:
I did not need extended clutch fork with the stock Tremec bell housing and tko 600? Clutch works fine.

I said to use one with a scattershield. If you have an aluminum bell then you'll be okay.

1990LXDropTop · Jul 12, 2005

So does DD carry all the parts I need for the swap? I think I'm going to get an aluminum flywheel, scattershield w/extended clutch fork. Also, which clutch would work best with the TKO500? I am thinking about getting the Centerforce DF with 26 spline disk. Thanks.

tunedin302 · Jul 12, 2005

1990LXDropTop said:
So does DD carry all the parts I need for the swap? I think I'm going to get an aluminum flywheel, scattershield w/extended clutch fork. Also, which clutch would work best with the TKO500? I am thinking about getting the Centerforce DF with 26 spline disk. Thanks.

D&D carries the parts. I would highly suggest you call and speak with them about the parts you want and your application. Like I said before, some people like the aluminum for the street but after I researched it, I decided for the steel. Also, Tremec suggests an organic clutch because it doesn't hit as hard. I use a McLeod and love it. CF may be a little too severe for the TKO. Again, talk to D&D. Good luck.

jerryD · Jul 12, 2005

if you call up D&D , and they tell you you don't need an extended fork with a steel bell, say ok. then call anderson ford to get one after you are done with D&D.

1990LXDropTop · Jul 13, 2005

jerryD said:
if you call up D&D , and they tell you you don't need an extended fork with a steel bell, say ok. then call anderson ford to get one after you are done with D&D.

What would be the point of getting one if D&D tells me I don't need one?

Grn92LX · Jul 13, 2005

1990LXDropTop said:
What would be the point of getting one if D&D tells me I don't need one?

If you run an SFI bellhousing you WANT an extended fork. Unless of course you like harder clutch pedals, poor cable geometry and extra stress on the cable then by all means keep the stock fork. Been there/done that. I bought an extended fork. If you know what your doing you can modify yours, but I find it easier to just buy it and sell my stock one.

tunedin302 · Jul 13, 2005

1990LXDropTop said:
What would be the point of getting one if D&D tells me I don't need one?

The guy at D&D runs a scattershield without an extended clutch and he will say it can be done. Much like it's probably possible to climb a mountain without a rope. I just prefer not having to worry about my clutch linkage being torn up. It worth the extra $70 for the piece of mind.

stang0f87 · Jul 18, 2005

good info for this post guys. i'm doing the exact same thing. already bought the tko 500 & McLeod sfi bellhousing. yolk and crossmember are on order. i might go ahead and grab an extended clutch fork. already replaced the pilot bearing. my question is, on the bellhousing, exactly what kind of fitment issues am I gonna be dealing with anyways? my car's pretty much stock with a couple mods. 87 gt-stock t5 tranny-gt40 heads and headers-xpipe with flowmasters.

tunedin302 · Jul 18, 2005

stang0f87 said:
good info for this post guys. i'm doing the exact same thing. already bought the tko 500 & McLeod sfi bellhousing. yolk and crossmember are on order. i might go ahead and grab an extended clutch fork. already replaced the pilot bearing. my question is, on the bellhousing, exactly what kind of fitment issues am I gonna be dealing with anyways? my car's pretty much stock with a couple mods. 87 gt-stock t5 tranny-gt40 heads and headers-xpipe with flowmasters.

Fitment issues on the scattershield will be only if you have long tube headers. You may have to grind some of the bell to make room for the long tubes. Only other issue is going to be on the passenger side 02 sensor. It is relatively difficult to tighten because there isn't a lot of room for a wrench. However, it can be done, but you may have to contort yourself like a pretzel to do it. Lastly, you will not be able to put the bolts in on the top of the bell without loosening the motor mounts and letting the motor drop back for access. If you have your intake manifold off then you will probably be able to reach them without having to loosen the motor mounts. Just remembered, the starter only fits one way so don't freak when you see four holes in the bell. Good luck.

stang0f87 · Jul 18, 2005

thanx. damn thats kinda handy. i just pulled my intake off. gonna upgrade to an edlebrock rpm II. i'll hold off throwing it on till i get the tranny lined out. if anybody's got more info on the matter, let it rip. i've read on this post bout the sfi bellhousing's need for an extended fork. my clutch seems plenty hard as it is. couldn't imagine making it worse. would that upgrade really be that significant?

Which bell housing for TKO500?

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