WHICH KMEMBER AND A ARMS

I got a D&D kit and it fit right in with no modifcation. They have the coil over kit in street and drag spring rates (2.25 street and 1.75 strip). I got the street kit and the car sit's excellant now that I can adjust the hight. They said it droped about 115 pound from the K-member and A-arms alone! The coil over kit drop probable 15-20 also. I don't know what current prices are now but i got mine a a Ford even for $625
form Texas Hot Rod. It uses the factory bolts so don't toss them! I also like it because alot of people tell me the powder coat is very good on them. Any kit that you get thou should be about the same.

Maximum Motorsports

D&D is not built to the stock dimensions of the v8 mustangs 87-93. If you install this K member on a v8 mustang 87-93, you will lose 1-2" of front track! The 4cyl cars use a 1" narrower track than the v8 cars. This will degrade the handling of the car.

The HAL is the budget K member for handling. It will increase the wheelbase about 3/4-1" over stock. Griggs and MM will also, but you have options for going up to 2" on these. The HAL will lighten the weight and give you better handling.

PA seems to have the stock v8 dimensions nailed, great price. Nothing over stock beyond lighter weight.

YOu may want to post your intended use -- 1320 or someting with corners.

I just installed a aje racing k-member and a-arm setup. It fit nicely and kept the stock dimensions...although he will custom make just about anything without a price change. What I particularly liked was the way the a-arm mounting location was integrated into the k-member, rather than having mounting tabs for them. You can check them out here ------> http://www.ajeracing.com/

I opted for the stock fox length a-arms with sn95 ball joints (again, no extra charge) because of my disc conversion.

As far as the install went, it's quite straitforeward. You have to support the engine before you drop the k-member of course. You also have to remove the stock springs, struts, and anything that you may re-use (like the rack and pinion). Removing them after the k-member is off can be quite diffacult due to the lack of support needed to really torque some of the bolts off.

I just did a complete write up of my impressions in the talk forum yesterday. Take a peek to really see more of my reviews on it.

Moved the front wheels Foward..

I use the UPR peice, easy bolt in, no problems, looks really sharp.