Which oil pans will work with the 351w in the II?

Gael

Founding Member
Jan 26, 2002
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Tucson, AZ
I know it's been mentioned a bit, but I'm trying to figure out what kind of an oil pan I can do for my 351w I'm building. So I aplogize for bringing this all back up again.

I was talking to the guy at the machine shop, and he was recommending Canton oil pans, however, I don't think they make one for the II. I think Milodon has one, but it's the one for manual steering/manual rack, right? I've also noticed Moroso has some 351w oil pans.

I mentioned the idea of using a stock 351w pan, and he doesn't think I should do that. The car is going to be making a considerable amount of power, the overly guessing Dyno 2000 is saying it should have over 400hp at the flywheel.

So if any has any input for oil pans, I appreciate your help again. Has anyone measured with the 351w in what dimensions for an oil pan would fit?
 
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Here are some sizes I've found.

Milodon: 8 3/4" Sump Depth, 9" Sump Length, 11" Sump Width

Canton: 8" Sump Depth, 8 1/2" Sump Length, 13 1/2" Sump Width

Moroso: 8" Sump Depth, 6 5/8" Sump Length, 13" Sump Width

These are street/strip oil pans.
 
Yeah I saw Canton's custom one, I'm wondering if one fits closely, and can be 'massaged' into fitting better.

I'd be afraid as to what Canton would charge for a custom oil pan, I think Milodon or Moroso also does custom pans. Custom/Customized oil pan, custom/customized headers. The market for II aftermarket parts is just skyrocketing! Blah.
 
As much as I hate it the best method is to use a front sump 351W pan and bend the pan in to accomodate the starter. I looked into custom built and it was 500 bucks!! gack!! Dont buy a chrome one as the chrome breaks and peels when you bend it. After bending it in repaint the scuffs to prevent rust. The starter covers the bend so it still looks pretty clean. I've done it twice now both worked well. I have a 351W FAQ on my page if you want further info.
 
Mstng2 said:
As much as I hate it the best method is to use a front sump 351W pan and bend the pan in to accomodate the starter. I looked into custom built and it was 500 bucks!! gack!! Dont buy a chrome one as the chrome breaks and peels when you bend it. After bending it in repaint the scuffs to prevent rust. The starter covers the bend so it still looks pretty clean. I've done it twice now both worked well. I have a 351W FAQ on my page if you want further info.


instead of making the pan fit the starter make the starter fit the pan

90's PMGR bolts up nicely and and sounds like a dream all for around 100 bucks

http://forums.stangnet.com/archive/index.php/t-359671 way way smaller
 
I did an approximate measurement of my oil pan front sump, and it's somewhere around 8" deep, 9" wide, and 9" long.

I think the Moroso could possibly work, depending on the width that I can work with.

Thanks for the starter info! :nice: But one question about it.. does that starter work for the stock V8 flywheel? I have a 4spd manual flywheel in it now, that's what I was planning on keeping.
 
Gael said:
I did an approximate measurement of my oil pan front sump, and it's somewhere around 8" deep, 9" wide, and 9" long.

I think the Moroso could possibly work, depending on the width that I can work with.

Thanks for the starter info! :nice: But one question about it.. does that starter work for the stock V8 flywheel? I have a 4spd manual flywheel in it now, that's what I was planning on keeping.


my guess is yes but when you look at the aplications it leaves ???

check this link starter link


Also retrofits
(1991-82) Ford Mustangs 5.0L (302 CID) All
(1979-68) Ford Mustangs 5.0L (302 CID) w/ AT
(1973-69) Ford Mustangs 5.8L (351 CID) w/ AT
Replaces:
Ford E9SZ-11002-A, F7SU-11000-AB, F7SZ-11002-AA
Lester Nos:
3205, 3268 (Retrofits 3124, 53, 68, 80)
Notes:
2-1806-FD-1 starter along with 79-2114 harness kit will retrofit older 4 in., 4-1/2 in. starters providing a 50% weight reduction and requiring less cranking amps. Because the PMGR starter is a smaller size, it provides better header clearance and reduces the effects of a hot start.
Features:
100% New
High-performance retrofit for 4 in., 4-1/2 in. starters




Ask the ford dealer -- do a search for lester 3205 ford pmgr

I believe the 10 tooth is just a design change either will work
 
Hmm, weird. Well, I'll have to work with it as I go I suppose.

I still want to know if anyone's tried the Moroso 351w pan, I honestly think that one will fit. The issues for most oil pans is that they're too long, or too wide towards the back. The Moroso isn't very long at all, it's supposedly shorter than the stock 302 pan I have on mine, it's just wider.

If nobody's tried it, I may give it a shot and see what happens, and let you all know.
 
Well, I can't really comment on any aftermarket pans, I used a stock 351 pan on my Ghia. In case people might be wondering, you can't use a 302 pan, because the end seal areas are different on the 351. I just massaged the pan to clear the factory starter and repainted it. If I did one nowadays, I'd powdercoat it. The starter idea is good too. My brother has the late model 5.0 "mini" starter in his Pro 74, and it's got tons of clearance to the pan as compared to the full size starter.