Which Roller rockers Work Best with AFR 165 Heads?

[Starscream88]

Bought a brand new set of AFR 165 heads,
What roller rockers work best with them?
1.6 or 1.7?

Im keeping the stock cam, Dont think Ill change it anytime soon anyway,

Every other mod is in my sig,
Also Is there anything I need to install them?

I remember reading something about they go through the water jackets in the head and to use a tread sealant on some bolts?
True or BS?

 

[RacEoHolic330]

stud mount or pedestal mount heads? Either way I would personally go with 1.6's. I have 1.6 scorpions on my 165's. 1.6's are less wear on the valvetrain especially if you're using the stock AFR springs. As for the cam. I would look for an aftermarket cam and swap out the stocker. If you're going through all the trouble to change the heads, you might as well swap the cam. Look for a mild cam with a smooth idle and somewhat close to stock specs. Those heads really benefit from an aftermarket cam. You'll thank yourself in the future for putting in a cam now. btw, what intake are you planning on running. And yes, you should use some sort of thread sealer on the head bolts. ARP makes a sealer or you could use black RTV silicone. Good luck with the swap, you'll love the afr's

-scott

 

[Rick@CJs]

I agree with the above, AFRs and a stock cam is pointless . If you cant afford a cam after AFRs you will be FAR better of spending less on TFs or Edelbrocks and spending the rest on the cam.
If you must stay with the stock cam then I would get 1.7s to get more lift. With the stock cam I dont think you will cause any stress with 1.7s.

 

[Schlodes]

I have the 165s, Edelbrock performer, 65 mm T body, and at the time had stock rockers, cam, and 100K bottom end... I do not think it is pointless to run the stock cam. with the stock rockers on still, I recent went 12.50s @ 109 MPH.

Just got some 90/10s and installed my crane 1.7 rockers... car feels a bit stronger.. Going back before ther season ends in hopes of 12.30s @ around 110 MPH or so.

Stock cam is rather nice. 1] it will pass emissions which is a concern for me. 2] it's funny as hell cause the car idles smooth and quiet as a stocker.. yet even with the stock rockers on wailed to 5800 no problem and would go mid 12s @ 109 in the 1/4.

Stock cam works nice all around IMO. Drives like stock, idles like stock, and does what I want it to when I beat it.

Next season I plan to go through the 8.8, and switch to 31 spline axles, and 4.10 gears w/ a good posi unit.. along with 10" slicks.. confident the car will be in the very low 12s then... with stock driveability and emissions legal.

Just my $0.02

 

[Starscream88]

So I should be expecting times of that sort?
We seem to have similar mods,

and I will be buying Roller rockers anyway
Possibly a set of slicks too

 

[N8Miller]

i am pretty much going to repeat what was said earlier.....

GET A CAM.... ANY CAM.

I have an ecam that will work good with your set up. If you go with that E cam, i would do 1.7 rockers and that bad boy will move then. PM me if your interested...cheap.

 

[onefastlx]

I have the 165s, Edelbrock performer, 65 mm T body, and at the time had stock rockers, cam, and 100K bottom end... I do not think it is pointless to run the stock cam. with the stock rockers on still, I recent went 12.50s @ 109 MPH.

Just got some 90/10s and installed my crane 1.7 rockers... car feels a bit stronger.. Going back before ther season ends in hopes of 12.30s @ around 110 MPH or so.

Stock cam is rather nice. 1] it will pass emissions which is a concern for me. 2] it's funny as hell cause the car idles smooth and quiet as a stocker.. yet even with the stock rockers on wailed to 5800 no problem and would go mid 12s @ 109 in the 1/4.

Stock cam works nice all around IMO. Drives like stock, idles like stock, and does what I want it to when I beat it.

Next season I plan to go through the 8.8, and switch to 31 spline axles, and 4.10 gears w/ a good posi unit.. along with 10" slicks.. confident the car will be in the very low 12s then... with stock driveability and emissions legal.

Just my $0.02

Bro those are nice times with the stock cam... BUT, you would be faster still if you changed it. Which could mean the difference bewteen low 12's and high eleven's, just food for thought...

 

[Schlodes]

Hey guys,

In no way am I disagreeing with anyone about a cam change. I know that my car [or his] would benefit from a nice cam. It only makes sense..

Here was my thinking... with my car. It has 100000 miles on it. It still runs good, did well on a compression test [all 150-160] etc. I wanted to buy an intake/heads after I had ran 13.1 with the motor all stock. Everyone seemed to rave about the AFRs, and after alot of reading that was what I ended up wanting. I figured that with all the mileage the engine does have, that, in a season or two it is going to get torn apart,& freshened up, at which point they will be ditching E testing here from what i've been hearing, and at which point it wont go back together with a stock camshaft.. not when the bearings and everything else are new.

From everything I have read, the stock cam isn't going to make the most power with these heads, [dont seem to be doing to bad though..] but to me, for now, it was easier to just leave the bottom end of a good solid running motor alone, put on some very good heads now, a very good intake now, and then just get a cam & lifters later when it does get a rebuild.. I've never been one to buy a new cam, re use the lifters, and 100000 mile cam bearings.. [I know.. tons of people do it...] and didnt have the money to do it all this season... & so in the meantime, have some fun, tinker with it and see how fast the stock cam will go.

I gotta admit, alot of it has to do with the E testing too.. Lotta people around here have been having a time passing the idle one.. the cruise one they get through but not the curb idle..

I will say listening to the car idle is funny, [so smooth & quiet] and the driveability it has when not WOT is actually quite nice considering the power it DOES already have.

And for the comment above about buying a bit less capable head, and then buying a cam too... I dunno about that. There are a few local cars that have H/C/I, that run a few tenths and few MPH slower than I am, and with 4.10s already. Two I am thinking of are 5 speed cars. I think this 2.95 1st gear is hurting me off the line too w/ 3.73s.

I fully expect to go quicker than 12.50s this time around.. I was happy.. but a bit disappointed.. with that, but happy with the 109 MPH traps with stock rockers and all.. wull see.

If you can afford it, definitely get a good cam, but my point was, it wont be a slow turd with the stock one by any means.

 

[5spd GT]

The stock cam has the capability of supporting quite a bit of power...sure a cam would be beneficial but there is nothing wrong with keeping that stock one...

I have Scorpion 1.6 Stud-Mounted RR's and they are a nice quality...$200 bucks from Ed Curtis...

 

[sn9550]

I use Cobra/Crane 1.7's. If your going to keep the stock cam that's what I'd use.

 

[SmockDoiley]

You need to find out if you bought stud or pedestal mount heads. If your going to keep the stock cam then I would get a set of 1.7 ratios so you can at least add some lift to help you out. Obviously, an upgraded cam would make more power, but that isnt what he asked! For quality and strength, I would recommend extruded aluminum roller rockers over the steel or cast aluminum rockers like the basic crane models. Extruded aluminum can handle more stress, mileage and spring tensions. Its like comparing a forged crank with a cast one. The stock cam will give you great off-idle torque with those 165s, and will keep your sleeper affect as well as driveability. As for brand? Any company making extruded aluminum roller rockers will work fine, and there are plenty of selections out there for under $200. Again though, find out if the heads are stud mount or pedestal mount like your stock setup.

 

[Starscream88]

Sounds good, N8Miller get back to me with that Cam info