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Which shocks

  • Thread starter Thread starter steel1212
  • Start date Start date May 21, 2005
S

steel1212

Active Member
Jun 24, 2004
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Frankfort, Ky
May 21, 2005
#1
  • May 21, 2005
  • #1
I'm looking for an adjustable shocks that will give me everything
Anyway, is there a shock out there that will give me great handeling, then go to the track turn a knob and give me great tracktion?

I was looking in the summit catalog and summit has some adjustables, 60/40,80/20, and 90/10 up front and 40/60, 50/50, and 70/30s out back. For about 26.95 each

Then there is the competition engineering ones that have the same settings for about 39.98 but say not for street use.

Then of course the 3 diffrent types of QA1s

I'm not going to sacrifice streetablity for this, thats why I want an adjustable that can go back to being just as good as my KYBs. If there isn't something like that, oh well but if there is I would like to know
 

zookeeper

Founding Member
Aug 25, 2001
3,415
63
109
Rogue River, Oregon
May 22, 2005
#2
  • May 22, 2005
  • #2
Although they aren't cheap, Spax brand shocks are fully adjustable and can be done without removing them from the car, unlike Konis, which need to be removed to make an adjustment. Check with Mustangs Plus, I know they have 'em for around $400 a set.
 
1

10secgoal

Active Member
Dec 1, 2003
2,801
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San Diego
May 22, 2005
#3
  • May 22, 2005
  • #3
The adjustable's are a nice ride. I like them much better than my kyb's. They were too stiff for me. Hit a bid bump and it threw my entire car around. I hated them. I only have the adjustable ones out back. But they are much nicer to me.
 
S

Soaring1

Banned
Jan 3, 2003
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1
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Texas
May 22, 2005
#4
  • May 22, 2005
  • #4
The KYB gas adjust is the way to go.
 
S

steel1212

Active Member
Jun 24, 2004
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Frankfort, Ky
May 22, 2005
#5
  • May 22, 2005
  • #5
10secgoal, so you have kybs up front, which ones? Also which adjustables do you have out back?
 
1

10secgoal

Active Member
Dec 1, 2003
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San Diego
May 22, 2005
#6
  • May 22, 2005
  • #6
steel1212 said:
10secgoal, so you have kybs up front, which ones? Also which adjustables do you have out back?
Click to expand...

Nope. Had them all around. Ditched them for 90-10's up front, and the summits adjustable's out back. They were the gas-a-just. I had no wieght transfer, hated the ride. They had to go. The back is a little stiff, but that is because of the springs out back. I just may go to a monleaf from caltrac, or bacl to stock.
 
S

steel1212

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Jun 24, 2004
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Frankfort, Ky
May 22, 2005
#7
  • May 22, 2005
  • #7
Ok explain something to me. Whats the deal with 90/10 and all those other numbers. I know a lot of people run the 90/10s up front but I'm not sure what they run in the back but why these settings?
 
G

grego37

New Member
May 12, 2004
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Fresno CA
May 23, 2005
#8
  • May 23, 2005
  • #8
I went with adj. Koni's up front and Cure ride's in back.
 

302 coupe

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2000
1,952
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36
Macon, Ga.
May 23, 2005
#9
  • May 23, 2005
  • #9
the 90/10 has to do with compression and rebound. Without going into too much detail, the front number has to do with how fast the shock will extend, the second number tells how fast the shock will compress. A 90/10 will extend quickly to get the nose of the car up for better weight transfer, then it compresses slowly to allow the weight to stay at the back longer. A 50/50 shock will have balanced valving, same extension and compression rates. Note that most drag shocks will be all around "softer" than shocks made for curves. Also, the Summit 3 way adjsutables are the same thing as the Competition Engineering 3 ways, the CE's just cost more. When I ordered my Summit 3 ways, the box was labeled "Duestech", or something like that. Anyway, they work fine and really let the front end come up on hard accleration, unlike the KYB's I used to have. They were way stiffer, but they allowed for better handling too. I don't know if there is a good all around shock that allows for comfortable ride, great handling, and great weight transfer. I think you'll end up compromising somewhere......
 
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steel1212

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Jun 24, 2004
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Frankfort, Ky
May 23, 2005
#10
  • May 23, 2005
  • #10
302, so if I put summits on there I would run 90/10s up front and the 40/60 settings out back at the track and the 60/40 front and 50/50 back when I go back to street? Also if they are the same as CE's, they say drag only, are they still ok for the street?
 

12sec67

Active Member
Oct 6, 2003
1,301
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36
San Diego, Ca
May 23, 2005
#11
  • May 23, 2005
  • #11
its not really easy to change them, you know that right?

you need to take the front shock out to change the setting and install the back ones upside down so you can un-do the bottoms and push up to adjust those.
 
S

steel1212

Active Member
Jun 24, 2004
1,180
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36
Frankfort, Ky
May 23, 2005
#12
  • May 23, 2005
  • #12
Nope, did not know that. So I'm guess this would be more hassle than I would want. As I keep telling myself this is a street car FIRST
 

302 coupe

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2000
1,952
3
36
Macon, Ga.
May 23, 2005
#13
  • May 23, 2005
  • #13
yeah, you don't really want to adjust them very often. Its a pain, you basically have to remove them so you can compress them all the way. I have my fronts set at 90/10, rears at 50/50. Handling is still ok with the 1" sway bar up front, I'd say that they're streetable. But don't expect them to handle as good as a Koni, or even a KYB.

I just noticed that you're running 620's in the front and 5 leafs in the back. IMO, you'd be wasting your time and money by running a drag shock with the springs you have. The 620's are too short to let the front end rise, and the 5 leafs won't let the rear dig in. I hope you're gonna be running slicks, because otherwise I don't think you'll ever get your 60 ft lower than a 2.1 or so. Your suspension is too stiff for drag racing.
 
S

steel1212

Active Member
Jun 24, 2004
1,180
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36
Frankfort, Ky
May 23, 2005
#14
  • May 23, 2005
  • #14
Yeah, I know my stuff is not exactly a drag setup but I also don't want my car to be just a drag car either. I'll be running slicks probably next year but until I can afford my 17 hopsters so I can put slicks on my welds I'll just have to run drag radials on my welds. I'm thinking of switching to bfg et streets though.

When I get my 17s they will have bfg TA/s for handling and then my welds will have the skinnys and slicks.

I know I'm trying to accomplish something that may be impossible but I want the best of both worlds or at least close to the middle as possible. My car will probably never see auto cross but I want great street handling with my setup as I can on my 17s and then switch to the 15s and burn up the strip.
 
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