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Which subframe connectors?

  • Thread starter Thread starter impulse001
  • Start date Start date Jan 27, 2010
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impulse001

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Jan 27, 2010
#1
  • Jan 27, 2010
  • #1
I wanted to get a set of subframes, but on AmericanMuscle.com they have several choices. They all seem about the same, is there really a difference between the $90 and $155 one?
 

tannerc91gt

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#2
  • Jan 27, 2010
  • #2
i have the Steeda set (got it from LRS). dont remember the price, but it included Torque box plates and its a really nice set. If your going to put in subframe connectors, theres no reason to not put in torque box reinforcement places as well
 
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impulse001

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#3
  • Jan 27, 2010
  • #3
tannerc91gt said:
i have the Steeda set (got it from LRS). dont remember the price, but it included Torque box plates and its a really nice set. If your going to put in subframe connectors, theres no reason to not put in torque box reinforcement places as well
Click to expand...

Cool, i'll get the plates also then.. What is LSR? Do you mean late model restoration? Which are better, bolt on or weld?

EDIT: I also found this http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...ximum-Motorsports-Chassis-Brace-Package-Black that comes with a strut tower brace and a lower chassis brace...
 

Shaolin Crane

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#4
  • Jan 27, 2010
  • #4
MM full length all the way
 

tannerc91gt

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#5
  • Jan 27, 2010
  • #5
impulse001 said:
Cool, i'll get the plates also then.. What is LSR? Do you mean late model restoration? Which are better, bolt on or weld?

EDIT: I also found this 86-93 Mustang Chassis Brace Package Fits Coupe/Hatch, Black Powdercoat Efi by Maximum Motorsports at LRS - Same Day Shipping! that comes with a strut tower brace and a lower chassis brace...
Click to expand...

LRS- Latemodel Restoration Supply
 
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TorontoGT

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#6
  • Jan 27, 2010
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I've been doing research lately on these too...

From what I've read bolt-on's aren't worth it. The mounting holes eventually stretch out with the flexing and they pretty much become useless.

I put a weld-on set onto my SHO and they were great. No reason not to do the weld-on route.
 

tannerc91gt

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#7
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the bolt in kit is fine.....as long as you weld it in also.
 

fivespeedsteed

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#8
  • Jan 27, 2010
  • #8
Shaolin Crane said:
MM full length all the way
Click to expand...



i have griggs lowers, they arent as long as mm ones. i wish ida had the mm ones.
 

NIKwoaC

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#9
  • Jan 28, 2010
  • #9
DO NOT drill holes in your car to mount sub frame connectors. Weld them in and forget about it. Drilling holes will only eventually lead to headaches.

That said, I have Maximum Motorsports standard length SFCs with the seat-bolt cross bars. Those things are rock solid and really well made... Just like you'd expect from MM. Welded in, my car is so stiff now, I can jack the car up and put a jack stand on just one side, and the car won't even twist 1/2 inch.
 

AMChrisYoung

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Jan 28, 2010
#10
  • Jan 28, 2010
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Maximum Motorsports' subframe connectors are the best way to go, they're some of the best on the market. Welding them is your best bet, too. Bolting your connectors on is okay, but welding makes them stronger and more reliable.
 

MAC'n89Blckstng

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#11
  • Jan 28, 2010
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I've installed three sets of MM full lengths. I love them, very very very nice pieces and the best you can get IMO without fabrication. The next best thing is to make through the floor subframes but thats a PITA.
 

Joe Jr.

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#12
  • Jun 22, 2010
  • #12
just had the mm full lengths welded under my notch today......wouldnt buy any others....
 

tannerc91gt

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#13
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I swear I will get mine in eventually...
 

20001 mustang

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#14
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as long as its a weld in full length with torque box plates theres not much difference. i bought the steeda set off AM and i got no complaints. you could compare coatings and wall thickness but im betting its fairly standard and id be impressed if you bent a pair anyway.
 

93SALEEN SC

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#15
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If you have the money do the Kenny Brown extreme matrix subframe system.
 

Strippt88

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#16
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Maximum Motorsports are the king, the ones from Latemodel will work fine too-powder coated, welded in with the plates, you're good to go.
 

NIKwoaC

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#17
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We've all seen cheap off-brand control arms twist apart and fail, even under mild cars. In the same way, I wouldn't trust a cheap off-brand SFC to do it's job. Personally, I would never skimp on structural stuff (chassis, suspension, brakes). If they fail, you can potentially cause even more damage.
 

Shaolin Crane

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#18
  • Jun 23, 2010
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NikwoaC said:
We've all seen cheap off-brand control arms twist apart and fail, even under mild cars. In the same way, I wouldn't trust a cheap off-brand SFC to do it's job. Personally, I would never skimp on structural stuff (chassis, suspension, brakes). If they fail, you can potentially cause even more damage.
Click to expand...

Why is it when you say stuff like that people listen but when i do i get criticized for it, remember the summit control arm thing, everyone and their mother told me "no you;re wrong, they're fine" then a week later we heard of about 10 people whos arms snapped under mild power
 
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FoxGT87

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#19
  • Jun 23, 2010
  • #19
you stopped updating your build thread so none of us know if your stuff is working either?

just a guess....
 

NIKwoaC

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Jun 23, 2010
#20
  • Jun 23, 2010
  • #20
Shaolin Crane said:
Why is it when you say stuff like that people listen but when i do i get criticized for it, remember the summit control arm thing, everyone and their mother told me "no you;re wrong, they're fine" then a week later we heard of about 10 people whos arms snapped under mild power
Click to expand...

People listen to me because I capitalize my "I"s.
 
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