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Which subframes?

  • Thread starter Thread starter VTStang66
  • Start date Start date Dec 8, 2004
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VTStang66

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Apr 2, 2001
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Rockwall, TX
Dec 8, 2004
#1
  • Dec 8, 2004
  • #1
Mustangs unlimited sells their subframes, and some made by TCP. I don't know anything about either. The main thing about the TCP ones is that you can get their X-brace to install in addition to the regular subframes, but total cost is about 3x the cost of the mustangs plus subframes.

So which ones should I get? I can afford the TCP ones, I'm just wondering if they're that much better.
 

reenmachine

20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 27, 2004
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Montrose, CA
Dec 8, 2004
#2
  • Dec 8, 2004
  • #2
Since you're getting a welder, just make your own -- it's really easy.

You can get the steel from your local supplier and there are many of us here that would be happy to walk you through the process. Basically if you can weld in store-bought subframe connectors, then you can make your own. Plus, you feel studly for fabbing something.
 

66 BLAKE 96

Native Texican
Founding Member
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Dec 8, 2004
#3
  • Dec 8, 2004
  • #3
Howdy VT!

It's my understanding that a great (and affordable) way to go is to get Competition Engineering Bolt On subframes and weld them on. The weld-ons from CE require fabbing and I believe moving the leaf spring. The bolt-ons provide plenty of material to weld them. I think they went for +/- $100 last time I checked. I wanna say 2bav has this setup too.
 

Pbum5

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Oct 27, 2004
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Minneapolis, MN
Dec 8, 2004
#4
  • Dec 8, 2004
  • #4
66 BLAKE 96 said:
Howdy VT!

It's my understanding that a great (and affordable) way to go is to get Competition Engineering Bolt On subframes and weld them on. The weld-ons from CE require fabbing and I believe moving the leaf spring. The bolt-ons provide plenty of material to weld them. I think they went for +/- $100 last time I checked. I wanna say 2bav has this setup too.
Click to expand...



I have the Competition Engineering Bolt-ins that I also welded in. $99.88 at Summit Racing. They fit tight under the floorboards so there are no clearance problems.
 

VTStang66

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Dec 9, 2004
#5
  • Dec 9, 2004
  • #5
what's up blake? How is the world treating you these days?

reenmachine: what tools do I need to make subframes, besides the welder?
 
H

Hydrocarbon

New Member
Nov 18, 2003
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Medford Oregon
Dec 9, 2004
#6
  • Dec 9, 2004
  • #6
I plan on getting TCPs sub-frame connectors. I'm going to make damn sure my frame is not going to twist.

If TCPs kit isn't good enough I'll just weld crap in random places.
 

reenmachine

20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 27, 2004
1,258
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Montrose, CA
Dec 9, 2004
#7
  • Dec 9, 2004
  • #7
VTStang66 said:
reenmachine: what tools do I need to make subframes, besides the welder?
Click to expand...
Good access to the underside of the car, a tape measure, some clamps, and something to cut the steel with. Pretty much the same stuff you'd need anyways, except for the cutting tools.
 

66 BLAKE 96

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#8
  • Dec 9, 2004
  • #8
VTStang66 said:
what's up blake? How is the world treating you these days?
Click to expand...

Great! Right now my biggest problem is trying NOT to jump on a great deal I found locally for new chrome Bullitt wheels so I can use that money to get the 5.0 and T-5 installed this winter. Good problem to have.

Sounds like you're getting back to hot rodding the car after a while off, huh?
 
D

Darkhorse845

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Nov 17, 2004
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Dec 9, 2004
#9
  • Dec 9, 2004
  • #9
Mustangs Unlinited
 

Edbert

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Jul 13, 2002
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109
Austin TX
Dec 9, 2004
#10
  • Dec 9, 2004
  • #10
The best thing about the TCP unit is the X-brace (as has been mentioned). If you want the X then you buy from TCP or make your own. I would have paid the extra to buy the TCP setup but it don't fit under a soft top Mustang, so I went with the Global West product. Whatever you buy weld them in, you can bolt em if you want or not, but have them welded with or without the bolt. Also make damn sure your body is straight and level before you do.
 

rhyno9

Founding Member
Oct 30, 2002
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Oswego Illinnoying
Dec 9, 2004
#11
  • Dec 9, 2004
  • #11
check out the link below for a DIY approach.

RV

http://www.mustangandfords.com/howto/89059/index.html
 

reenmachine

20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 27, 2004
1,258
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Montrose, CA
Dec 9, 2004
#12
  • Dec 9, 2004
  • #12
rhyno9 said:
check out the link below for a DIY approach.

RV

http://www.mustangandfords.com/howto/89059/index.html
Click to expand...
exactly.
 

BAD67FUN

Founding Member
Oct 31, 2001
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Wisconsin
Dec 9, 2004
#13
  • Dec 9, 2004
  • #13
You guys have consider other peoples fab skills my not be that of your own. Saying it's easy can be mis-leading. Also... some peoples time is worth more than others. An average welder/fabricator may need to spend quit a bit of time to come up with pieces comparable to the TCP set.

They may end up costing a couple of bucks more... but you can be rest assured they will work as advertised.

I'm not trying to sell any particular brand.... but I will mention that I have the TCP set, including the X brace. The difference in chasis stiffness is amazing. I could tell within the first half a block of driving it.

I'm sure every brand of connector offers some level of satisfaction.
 
6

65mistress

Member
Aug 17, 2004
405
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Generica USA
Dec 9, 2004
#14
  • Dec 9, 2004
  • #14
I think that reen has a point, sometimes there is nothing like saying "Yep, I made those..."

For some it's just the experience of fabricating it yourself that's worth the extra "cost"
 

VTStang66

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Dec 9, 2004
#15
  • Dec 9, 2004
  • #15
66 BLAKE 96 said:
Sounds like you're getting back to hot rodding the car after a while off, huh?
Click to expand...

I came into some money when some girl smashed my truck. I'm a lot more motivated to spend days lying on my back on cold concrete when there are thousands of dollars being spent at the same time.

Hopefully by the end of winter break (mid january) I'll have a limited slip with 4.11s, 16" wheels, subframes, new wiring, a new stereo, a rattle-free interior, a new parking brake, and about 50 other little things to make the car fun again. It should be fast and awesome, I can't wait.
 
B

BB1966

New Member
Dec 1, 2004
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Beaufort , NC USA!!!!
Dec 9, 2004
#16
  • Dec 9, 2004
  • #16
That is a lot of work to save $75.00.
 

foghorn67

I'll save you the time and choke myself
Founding Member
Jan 10, 2002
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Orange County, CA
Dec 9, 2004
#17
  • Dec 9, 2004
  • #17
66 BLAKE 96 said:
Great! Right now my biggest problem is trying NOT to jump on a great deal I found locally for new chrome Bullitt wheels so I can use that money to get the 5.0 and T-5 installed this winter. Good problem to have.

Sounds like you're getting back to hot rodding the car after a while off, huh?
Click to expand...
nice to hear.

VT: how's the condition of the fram rail thingies on your stang? Is this a factor? Mine is beat up from car lifts.
 

reenmachine

20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 27, 2004
1,258
2
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Montrose, CA
Dec 9, 2004
#18
  • Dec 9, 2004
  • #18
BB1966 said:
That is a lot of work to save $75.00.
Click to expand...
You're missing the point entirely.
 

beanplant

Founding Member
Jun 25, 2002
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KC MO
Dec 9, 2004
#19
  • Dec 9, 2004
  • #19
I agree with the self-satisfaction of fabrication. I don't have a welder and have somehow fabricated a lot of my parts. My dad works at a Ford plant here so he's had some of the guys workin on the side up there for us. = ) I need a mig welder though...
-Shaun
 

66 BLAKE 96

Native Texican
Founding Member
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Dec 10, 2004
#20
  • Dec 10, 2004
  • #20
VTStang66 said:
I came into some money when some girl smashed my truck. I'm a lot more motivated to spend days lying on my back on cold concrete when there are thousands of dollars being spent at the same time.

Hopefully by the end of winter break (mid january) I'll have a limited slip with 4.11s, 16" wheels, subframes, new wiring, a new stereo, a rattle-free interior, a new parking brake, and about 50 other little things to make the car fun again. It should be fast and awesome, I can't wait.
Click to expand...

Very cool.

Let me know how you master the rattle free interior. I think there's just too much fiberglass, and too many screws to totally silence these things, but I'm hopeful.

What kind of parking brake are you going with? I snagged the brake from the 85 GT I parted out and will be fabbing it into my car in January also.
 
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