which welder to get?

VTStang66 · Dec 8, 2004

I want a 115V mig welder, which limits me to about 135A. Hobart makes a 140A and Lincoln makes a 135A. The features and price are basically the same. So does anybody have any input on which one is better? Or is there another brand I should get? The main reason I looked at these 2 is because they can both be bought at stores around me.

reenmachine · Dec 8, 2004

I have a Lincoln SP-175 Plus, which is basically the 230V version of their SP-135 Plus 115V welder. It is outstanding for automotive applications. I got the 230V version just because my shop is already wired for it and I figured why not have the extra capability. However, I don't think you could ever go wrong with the 115V version. It'll handle anything a car can reasonably throw at you without hesitation.

Honestly, I think the Lincoln vs. Miller debate is like the Ford vs. Chevy debate -- just opinions (even though we all know Chevys suck. ) I have no experience with Hobart, but a couple of reps who represent Lincoln, Miller, and ESAB tried to convince me to get an ESAB machine. They claim less flashy features but better guts.

Lincoln has a killer sale going on through December 21 that makes the decision pretty easy. The SP-135 (115V) is $415 and the SP-135 Plus (115V) is $514.

sin-city-customs · Dec 8, 2004

welder

I just bought a Lincoln SP 135 and love it. I don't weld very good, but my buddy does and it looks great on anything he welds.

Dave

oz · Dec 9, 2004

I know it's a PITA but spend the cash and the time to run a 30A 220V line to your garage (if you don't have one) and get a 220V unit.
The reason I say this is that the Lincoln 175 that I have is only rated to weld 3/8" in MIG mode (a little thicker in flux mode) I believe. At this thickness the amps and feed rate are maxed out.
If you just want to weld sheet metal, then the 135 is enough but if you have frame welding (i had to weld on front frame patches - bumper mounts - on my '69) you need the bigger unit.
I am very happy with my Lincoln. I got it (new) on Ebay for ~$420 about a year ago with cart, etc. Added a 60CF tank for $120.

oz · Dec 9, 2004

Oh yea, one more thing - do yourself a favor and stay away from the off brands. Everyone I have talked to that has one regrets it.
Miller or Lincoln ONLY!

1320stang · Dec 9, 2004

I think Miller, Lincoln, ESAB, or Hobart would be great. I have a Miller 135 with a gas kit and I love it. A friend that I went in on it with when we bought it, just cut the frame in half on his Ramcharger and put in the front half of the frame from a 4x4 D-250 Cummins Turbo Diesel with no problems. He also took the front half of his old frame and welded it to the truck he got the diesel from and swapped rear axles and basically converted the other truck to a D-150 and his Ramcharger is now a 3/4 ton. The difference in the thickness of the frames was less than 1/16th of an inch. He plated the inside of the frame 8" each direction of the cut welding it in and also put 2 3/4" bolts thru the frame and plate on each side of the cut. But I agree about getting a 220V machine if you can afford it.

351LX · Dec 9, 2004

When looking at welders don't pay too much attention to the manufacturers rated output.You will find that there is a manufacturers rated outed output, a output at a particular duty cycle(usually 20%),an underwriters laboratory rated output and in Canada a CSA rated output as well and they are all different.For example, my Lincoln Mig Pak 10 is rated by Lincoln 30-100A and 88A at a 20% duty cycle capable of welding up to 1/4".The Hobart Handler 140 is rated by Hobart 25-140A but has 90A at a 20% duty cycle and according to Hobart capable of welding up to 1/4".The rating at a 20% duty cycle or the UL rating is probably a better way to judge machines.

Great68 · Dec 9, 2004

My buddy just bought a Lincoln 225 second hand, I'm going to learn to weld on it! I can't wait.

oz · Dec 9, 2004

I have a 'BOC Gas' (welding supply / industrial gas) store near my house and they offer free welding lessons. They told me to come in any time during business hours and they would get me going. They have two or three Lincoln MIGs (135 or 175's) in the back room with welding tables and scrap metal to weld on... you don't need to bring anything. They will set you up, show you some things and then let you 'fire stick' away. Very cool.
That's the way to go if you have a store near you and want to learn before (or after) you buy a machine.

dmoody · Dec 9, 2004

Anybody ever use TIG on their stang? I've been using MIG for the past several years but I'm increasingly wanting to try my hand with a TIG welder but I'm not sure what the adv/disadvantages would be? Is TIG welding cooler such that it doesn't warp as much? I know you can get cleaner welds with it but can you weld with it in as many places?

d

VTStang66 · Dec 9, 2004

What is involved in running a new 230V circuit to the garage?

raykrv6a · Dec 9, 2004

dmoody said:
Anybody ever use TIG on their stang? I've been using MIG for the past several years but I'm increasingly wanting to try my hand with a TIG welder but I'm not sure what the adv/disadvantages would be? Is TIG welding cooler such that it doesn't warp as much? I know you can get cleaner welds with it but can you weld with it in as many places?

d

I don't know when you want to use TIG over MIG, but I know my SP-135 welds were dirty using flux-core wire. Went and bought a tank of welding gas and the welds look beautiful. Very clean and hardly any cleanup grinding.

raykrv6a · Dec 9, 2004

Anyone weld in subframe connectors before? Is my SP-135 powerful enough or do you need something bigger? By the way, I went with Lincoln as I wanted troublefree operations and it certainly has been. Definitely no issues.

WORTH · Dec 9, 2004

oz said:
I know it's a PITA but spend the cash and the time to run a 30A 220V line to your garage (if you don't have one) and get a 220V unit.
The reason I say this is that the Lincoln 175 that I have is only rated to weld 3/8" in MIG mode (a little thicker in flux mode) I believe. At this thickness the amps and feed rate are maxed out.
If you just want to weld sheet metal, then the 135 is enough but if you have frame welding (i had to weld on front frame patches - bumper mounts - on my '69) you need the bigger unit.
I am very happy with my Lincoln. I got it (new) on Ebay for ~$420 about a year ago with cart, etc. Added a 60CF tank for $120.

I disagree OZ, You can do anything on the Mustang with the 110 volt rig. I've had a small lincoln for about 5 or 6 years and it has done great on all the unibody stuff. I've been using my Stick welder for all the thick stuff. I did just buy a 175 amp mig , but I haven't had a chance to use it yet.

As for quality, my old Lincoln seems to be put together better than the new Hobart. But time will tell. The lincoln has been troublefree since I got it.

reenmachine · Dec 9, 2004

dmoody said:
Anybody ever use TIG on their stang? I've been using MIG for the past several years but I'm increasingly wanting to try my hand with a TIG welder but I'm not sure what the adv/disadvantages would be? Is TIG welding cooler such that it doesn't warp as much? I know you can get cleaner welds with it but can you weld with it in as many places?

d

I haven't learned to TIG yet -- I MIG everything. I can gas weld, and it's kinda similar -- you've got an arc instead of an oxy-acetyline flame and you feed a stick in by hand like in gas welding. You can vary the arc with a foot pedal though, so you have that extra measure of control. TIG welds are the cleanest, most aesthetically pleasing welds I've ever seen. The process is much slower though, so I believe substantially more heat would be added to the surrounding area.

1320stang · Dec 10, 2004

Kinda hard to get into some places with a TIG without a lot of experience. I agree with Worth on the part about being able to do anything on a Mustang with a 110v rig, but once you have a welder, you find all sorts of other things you'll want to do with it that you've never thought of before. If I ever get a TIG, I'll put in patch panels with it instead of a MIG. I also agree with reen, TIG welds look SOOO cool if done correctly, like a roll of dimes.

WORTH · Dec 10, 2004

1320stang said:
Kinda hard to get into some places with a TIG without a lot of experience. I agree with Worth on the part about being able to do anything on a Mustang with a 110v rig, but once you have a welder, you find all sorts of other things you'll want to do with it that you've never thought of before. If I ever get a TIG, I'll put in patch panels with it instead of a MIG. I also agree with reen, TIG welds look SOOO cool if done correctly, like a roll of dimes.

Agreed, I would never suggest getting the smallest of any tool, however sometimes it just isnt possible to go with the big one. And for the Mustangs the little guy is fine. I just purchased the 175 amp to do the Frame work on my 46 pickup, the 100 amp baby wouldn't cut it. I would have loved to go with the 250 amp, but I'm broke and the 175 was cheap money and it will do my 46 nicely.

68rustang · Dec 11, 2004

I have a small 115V Lincoln set up for MIG. It works great for everything on my car. If you have the $$ and resources (basically your shop, garage, or dryer is already wired for 220V) for a 220V setup you will be happier in the long run. But if you just want to get your feet wet welding and need a machine that can weld %98 of what is on your car a 115V will be just fine.

Some advantages of TIG welding are control, versatility and strength. It is a slower process but much more controllable and can weld a wide range of materials. When done right a TIG weld can have a very small heat affected zone which for bodywork can mean less warpage, filling, and grinding before paint. I have been playing around with a TIG for a few months now and have so far sucessfully welded steel, various grades of stainless, titanium, and aluminum <--I am still working on this one.

which welder to get?

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