Who has used POR 15? How much do i need?

84convertablegt

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Nov 6, 2004

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Apr 6, 2005

#1

• Apr 6, 2005

• #1

OK, this stuff is expensive, but supposofly works great. i am ready to order it. my question is how much will i need. i plan on covering the whole underside of the car, minus the gas tank. i plan on doing some work under the hood at the top of the firewall, near the cowell. also, maybe some work in the trunk, not too much, im in pretty good shape. how much do u think ill need. it seems better to buy smaller amounts so that you dont have to reseal the container, i read that if you brush right out of the can, it will ruin the rest of the product. also, anyone know somewhere cheap to buy the stuff? thanks

 

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66HertzClone

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Aug 24, 2004

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#2

• Apr 6, 2005

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I have used both POR15 and the Eastwood copy. I find the POR15 adheres well and virtually nothing will remove it. The Eastwood product came right off the floor plug covers when I tightened the screws down.

Be sure to go to the POR15 web sire and read the instructions there. In order for the product to last you must follow them exactly. Use their cleaner and prep, otherwise it won't last. I would start with a quart of the POR15, if that is not enough buy it in smaller quantities. I covered the can as instructed with plastic wrap before I put the lids on, I also punched a couple of very small holes in the can where the lid seals. I then used a Q tip to push the POR15 thru these holes back into the can. This way the lid did not end up glued to the can. I also stored it in the refrigerator, they say it will last longer that way. Wear latex gloves when using this stuff and at minimum safety glasses if not goggles. If it dries on your skin it will be there until that layer of skin wears off. I had some really nice black edged finger nails that lasted for better than a month.

It is indeed good stuff, it appears like it will last forever, if you are patient and careful with your preparation it should work well for you too.

 

MO351

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Apr 6, 2005

#3

• Apr 6, 2005

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I've been wondering about this stuff, too.

 

Edbert

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Apr 6, 2005

#4

• Apr 6, 2005

• #4

I used a quart to do the entire interior and trunk compartment, I put it on thick and had some left. I would not buy it in larger containers since it will become contaminated and/or dry out before you can finish. I'd think 3 quarts would be more than enough to do ANY MUstang from head to toe. Speaking of body parts...do NOT get it on you...it will be there for a week or so.

 

txwoody

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4 hours to anywhere, TX

Apr 6, 2005

#5

• Apr 6, 2005

• #5

Here is an alternative to por-15. Its good stuff. I have used it on several different things, and it is cheaper that por-15.
http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp

 

84convertablegt

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Apr 6, 2005

#6

• Apr 6, 2005

• #6

txwoody said:

Here is an alternative to por-15. Its good stuff. I have used it on several different things, and it is cheaper that por-15.
http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp

Click to expand...

also looks good, hummm. choices choices. what to do?? anyone else ever used this other stuff. Chassis Saver?

 

cardude

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Apr 6, 2005

#7

• Apr 6, 2005

• #7

just be aware that POR15 is UV sensitive so if you are putting it anywhere that you are going to get direct or somewhat indirect UV on it (like reflection off the pavement it might be a good idea to go over it with a top coat of chassis black or whatever.

 

meanroy

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Apr 6, 2005

#8

• Apr 6, 2005

• #8

Por15

I agree with the other comments about how large a can to get.
Certainly no larger than quarts.
I'd start out with 2 quarts, you can always get more.

I have used it and a number of other POR products and if you follow directions you will get GREAT results.

If you are putting it on the underside of the car you will have to be very carefull to remove ALL traces of undercoating!
You might also want to remove any seam sealer thats there and re-seal the seams after you have applied the POR15.
I have found small amounts of rust under the seam sealer occasionally.

Roy.

 

YellowMach69

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buffalo new york

Apr 6, 2005

#9

• Apr 6, 2005

• #9

Is the EastWood Correless the same ?? I used Coreless and brushed it on all seams, and used it on any area that was very rusted, Can those others be painted over after application , or do they need to be Prepped?

 

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19simmons65

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Apr 2, 2005

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Upper Marlboro, MD

Apr 6, 2005

#10

• Apr 6, 2005

• #10

I just received my POR15 order yesterday. I ordered the Super Starter Kit ($21.00) and includes Marine Clean, Metal Ready and Por15 (4 ounces), gloves and two brushes. My plan is to use the kit on my trunk. I've heard it works well but I want to try it first in a small enclosed area just in case I mess up.

The catalog that comes with the kit features a six pack--six small 4 oz. cans of POR15. You can mix and match -- black / silver. Use what you need and put the rest on the self. You can also get an undercar/trunk kit which might meet your needs.

My car is at the shop right now...getting disc brakes and new rims tires. Can't wait to get my car back so I can get started.


www.por15.com

 

Platonic Solid

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#11

• Apr 6, 2005

• #11

19simmons65 said:

I just received my POR15 order yesterday. I ordered the Super Starter Kit ($21.00) and includes Marine Clean, Metal Ready and Por15 (4 ounces), gloves and two brushes. My plan is to use the kit on my trunk. I've heard it works well but I want to try it first in a small enclosed area just in case I mess up.

The catalog that comes with the kit features a six pack--six small 4 oz. cans of POR15. You can mix and match -- black / silver. Use what you need and put the rest on the self. You can also get an undercar/trunk kit which might meet your needs.

My car is at the shop right now...getting disc brakes and new rims tires. Can't wait to get my car back so I can get started.


www.por15.com

Click to expand...

I've done quite a bit of work with Por15. I buy Por15 rust treatment paint by the 4oz 6 pack only. It may cost more per ounce, but I don't have to worry about the unopened cans turning into jello. I buy Marine Clean and Metal Ready by the gallon and Chassis Coat by the quart. The one thing I think their kit is missing is Por15 Solvent (check the last few pages of the catalog - at least that's where it is in the 2003 catalog). Floating a thin layer of solvent on top of the remaining Por15 in the can before you close it will help it to last longer. The solvent also cleans Por15 messes better than anything else (even better than Laquer thinner or Acetone) If you use Por15 straight from the can, it will turn bad very quickly. I use a turkey baster to remove a small amount of Por15 from the can to a paint container. I use those cheap plastic disposable tuperware-like ziplock containers to paint from.

Remember, Metal Ready is Hydrochloric Acid. Handle and apply with caution.
.

 

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19simmons65

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Apr 2, 2005

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Upper Marlboro, MD

Apr 7, 2005

#12

• Apr 7, 2005

• #12

1:1 or 1:5 Marine Clean and hot water

The instruction recommend diluting the Marine Clean with water. What's the recommended ratio? I have a 8 oz bottle that I plan to use for my 65's trunk. The instrctions also say to keep the surfact wet for 15-20 minutes.

 

84convertablegt

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Apr 7, 2005

#13

• Apr 7, 2005

• #13

im wondering if i will really need to prep the metal or not??? por15's instructions say you only need to prep the metal if its dirty or there is very flakey rust. i basically have some surface rust going on on the underside of the car. im thinking i could just apply the por15 directly to it. i have no underbody coating to contend with. what do u think??

 

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19simmons65

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Apr 2, 2005

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Upper Marlboro, MD

Apr 7, 2005

#14

• Apr 7, 2005

• #14

I would follow the directions to the letter. Metal Ready will neutralize the rust, etch the metal for better adhesion of POR15 and coat the metal with zinc phosphate to encourage deep chemical bonding of Por15 to the base metal and rust.

 

84convertablegt

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#15

• Apr 7, 2005

• #15

19simmons65 said:

I would follow the directions to the letter. Metal Ready will neutralize the rust, etch the metal for better adhesion of POR15 and coat the metal with zinc phosphate to encourage deep chemical bonding of Por15 to the base metal and rust.

Click to expand...

OK, point taken

 

Platonic Solid

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#16

• Apr 7, 2005

• #16

19simmons65 said:

The instruction recommend diluting the Marine Clean with water. What's the recommended ratio? I have a 8 oz bottle that I plan to use for my 65's trunk. The instrctions also say to keep the surfact wet for 15-20 minutes.

Click to expand...

I use 1:1 for metal prep. FYI, this stuff was the only thing that was capable of removing stains from the gutters on my house

I use an old hair dryer to speed up the drying process after the Marine Clean and Metal Ready.

Though most have seen these pics, I'll post them again since some of you are fairly new here:

73 Trunk

73 Wheel Well
.

 

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19simmons65

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Apr 2, 2005

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Upper Marlboro, MD

Apr 7, 2005

#17

• Apr 7, 2005

• #17

Platonic Solid .... dude....I have used your website a lot over the last few weeks. I think I have looked at every photo on your website. The only thing that could make the site better is more detailed descriptions from you.

Question. The directions say to rinse the marine clean and metal ready after application. Did you wipe the trunk down with a rag or douse with water.

Are you working on any new projects?

 

67MustangManiac

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Apr 7, 2005

#18

• Apr 7, 2005

• #18

Why are you not using it on the tank? I repaired an FJ40 Land Cruiser gas tank and then coated it with POR15 and it came out GREAT. It also seals the tank in case there were any pinholes in my welding !

Maniac!

 

cardude

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Portland, OR

Apr 7, 2005

#19

• Apr 7, 2005

• #19

i agree, nice pics of the steps. where do you get the peelaway? local or via the net?

 

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19simmons65

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Apr 2, 2005

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Upper Marlboro, MD

Apr 7, 2005

#20

• Apr 7, 2005

• #20

Maniac did you coat just the top of the fuel tank or the underside too? I was looking at some photos the other day and it appeared that one guy used Por15 silver to coat the underside and black on the inside. I guess he wanted the underside of the tank to really stand out.

I don't see any reason you wouldn't treat the tank too.