Who here autox's.

Numbles · Aug 5, 2005

Im changing my combination for a more cornering able type car. And have a few questions about how others have setup their suspension.

Ive always wanted to get strange ajustables because my goals have always been set on drag racing. But I dont know if they are a good idea for cornering.

Anyone have any recomendations.

My suspension so far is

Hotskish (SP?) Upper and lower control arms.
And lowering springs. (From previous owner)

Today I ordered Coilovers/pro3i cc plates/mmr tubular a-arms for the front
MMR has a sale on their a-arms and coilovers for $305. Decided against their k-member because it is not chrome moly. Thinking of the MM, PA, or AJE for that.
And Next is a MM torque arm and panhard bar for the back.

I was talking with go-stang5.0 earlier and he recomended me away from the strange ajustables. The only thing I have left to decide on is shocks and struts. With the combination above. Are the strange ajustables good or would another brand be better. I really have no knowledge about good road racing shocks. Ive always been into dragging. Any help is good. And since I have a buddie who works for strange. I can get their stuff for cheap. Thats why Im leaning towards that brand.

Thanks
Dan.

Numbles · Aug 8, 2005

crazypete · Aug 8, 2005

Here's my braindump on cornering a stang.

Your overall goal should be weight loss and then 50/50 weight distribution.

Partswise,

I say get a nice tubular k-member for the front with coilovers. Changes the spring geometry and drops loads of weight. Dont lose the power steering, just get a flaming river solid shaft to take the slop out. You will hate your car within a week with a manual rack. For the rear, some nice tubular upper/lowers. I have granatellis with no quad shocks. Not a bit of wheel hop and I have trouble burning out....the darn car just hooks up and goes.

Dont waste your time on rear brake conversions but put some nice 73mm calipers up front with hawk pads. Makes a huge difference and real easy to do.

Now I surprisingly dropped both swaybars and I can still corner like it's on rails. Weight makes the difference. The car is so light, the lateral weight transfer is minimal. Plus the coilovers move the springs up and outboard so they help too.

I hope this helped some.

Daggar · Aug 8, 2005

Hey Crazypete --

How important do you rate a panhard bar and torque arm for cornering in combination with the 4 link?

How does a setup like that compare with something like the Steeda 5 Link II?

crazypete · Aug 8, 2005

I'm not familiar with the steeda link ii but I had considered going to panhard/torque arm combo back when designing it all. But there was just too much chassis welds to get the panhard setup in there. It IS the better setup but we already run 4 link and I decided to do whatever I could to the 4 link without changing the entire rearend setup out. I used spherical bearings on the upper control arms mounts and tubular polyurethane equipped granatellis riding on FMS C springs out back. The pinion angle is practically perfect. Corners like its on rails with no swaybars.

I did do things like take the rear bumper off and put a fiberglass board in it's place, delete the rear spoiler, switched to a lexan window and moved the battery to the bottom center of the spare well. You could probably replicate this setup for little over $500. Simple sturdy and light.

crazypete · Aug 8, 2005

Oh yeah, how could I forget. Subframes!! An absolute must. Really stiffens up the car. I used the ones from 50resto with the crossbraces.

Daggar · Aug 8, 2005

I dont mean to steal the thread so I'll try and stick things the orginal poster asked about...

I see that the MM suggests completely removing the upper control arms when using their torque arm (making the setup a 3 link)... has anyone done this install? How did it all work out? Would removing the upper control arms, in any way make installation of the panhard bar any easier clearance wise or are the uppers just not a factor when talking about panhard bars?

hangman1515 · Aug 8, 2005

I have the Steeda 5 link II and I love it. I also have Steeda lower control arms, Bump Steer, Subframe connectors and Caster camber plates. I love Steeda for my AutoXer. Look at my Garage to see mine. My Stang loves to AutoX.

Daggar · Aug 8, 2005

Hangman-- How much exhaust system clearancing did you ahve to do for the Steeda?

hangman1515 · Aug 8, 2005

For the 5 Link? I cut the exhaust off 2-3 inches after the muffiler and jsut put down tubes on it. I do not drive this car except to race it. I was lazy when I put the 5 link in. I did not want to take the time or money to rerout the exhaust. From what I hear it does not take much. My team mate also has a 5 link and he took the old pipes and cut them and rewelded them to fit. There is no clearence for the 5 link. you have to cut it out and rerun it.

Numbles · Aug 8, 2005

For a question noone has adressed yet. Ill rephrase. Will any shock strut combo work alright. It doesn't sound like something that is going to make or brake my combination.

Wether it be kyb's or strange ajustables put on their stiffist setting.

crazypete. Took me a second to understand your avitar. Thats funny.

crazypete · Aug 8, 2005

I used torrington bearings on my mufflers to reduce the chance that my power band would snap and gained 10 hp. Then I added the red sticker for the other 40.

Just get adjustables. You cant go wrong with them as you can change the settings if they dont do what you want. I've been doing just fine slapping the coilovers onto some factory struts (with some grinding) and getting down to business.

Numbles · Aug 8, 2005

And can I just buy the 87-93 models with sn95 spindles.

If I remember right the only difference is the height difference.

jerry beach · Aug 8, 2005

I am installing a MM TA this week, I will post back in here once I get a chance to drive it.

The panhard bar install cleared everything perfectly like MM said it would. It was just very tough to drill the holes though the frame. That metal is very hard and I had a very high quaility drill bit. Still took a very long time to drill those 8 holes. Pete, I dont know what chassis welds you are talking about for the Panhard. MM recommends you dont weld it.

As for shocks and struts, I would go with Bilsteins all around if I were doing it over again. Now I have a mix and match setup, but it should work fine for me since I am not going road racing.

Numbles · Aug 8, 2005

Hangman. What tires are you running. Good pic of your car btw in the my garage link.

hangman1515 · Aug 9, 2005

Numbles said:
Hangman. What tires are you running. Good pic of your car btw in the my garage link.

I am running Hoosier 245/40/17 A3S05's for this season. I have already ordered my new rim for next year and my new tire is going to be a 16x12 racing slick. I am running in CP class in the WDCR-SCCA. I can run a full slick in my class and it does not have to be a DOT tire. But the S05's are great. They are really sticky and they are DOT aproved tires, so you could run them on the street if you wanted to but not suggested. You would only get about 300-400 miles on the highway with them.

Numbles · Aug 9, 2005

Just picked up my strange ajustables. Got an amazing deal on them. You can definately tell the difference in the 10 settings just by hand. On the stiffest setting you cant really even move the shaft. So I think they will work good.

But on another note. Going to various 1/4 strips around chicago cost $25-$35 plus gas and all that stuff to race. What does autoxing cost for the different events. Like events in a walmart parkinglot with cones. Compared to a road racing even at a track.

VibrantRedGT · Aug 9, 2005

What's wrong with Strange adjustable struts. There are many of us that run them with great success. $105 shipped for 10 way adjustables is hard to beat.

90mustangGT · Aug 9, 2005

Make it easy and just call MM and get the big box!!!

Front: tubular K-member with A-arms and solid bushings, or even endlinks, G-load brace, upgraded swaybar, strut tower brace, C/C plates, coil overs, quick ratio power rack, Bumpsteer kit, solid rack bushings, FR Steering shaft, double adjustable struts. Wide front wheels, such as 17x9 with some good cornering tires such as the Hoosier DOT rated slicks.
Chassis: Full length Subframes and cross braces, Roll cage that connects from wheel well to wheel well and everywhere between (12 point) Battery relocated to the rear, as much wieght reduction as possible.
Rear: Cobra, Thunderbird, Jag rear end with some solid bushings or the MM Torque arm of Steeda 5 link. Adjustable shocks, Upgraded Swaybar. 17x10 wheels with more sticky tires.
Don't Forget: A good seat with a 5 point harness to take the G's.

I am no autocrosser, but I belive that this would be a mean setup, but a very expensive setup. I bet you could be competitive by:

Front: Poly bushings (swaybar, rack, A-arms) performance struts, better springs, Strut tower brace.
Chassis: Subframe connectors
Rear UCA and LCA's with a Panhard bar, better springs and shocks.
Wheels: Pony's or bigger, but not too big.

Don't forget lower and firmer isn't always better when it comes to springs.

cobradvm · Aug 9, 2005

I will throw my $0.02 in for Bilsteins - just finished putting them in along with some other stuff - difference is unbelievable - but that's what everyone says when they replace the stock POS - just goes to show you how bad the stock stuff is - I guess once they are 15 odd years old, they are pretty well shot.

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