Who's done the coil over suspension???

reeber

10 Year Member

Mar 10, 2004

574

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38

Berlin, NJ

Jun 5, 2006

#1

• Jun 5, 2006

• #1

I am about to drop some cash on an entire new suspension setup for my car. Although I do have the eibach prokit and shocks / struts, I want to replace my stock control arms, k-member, and go with a coil-over kit with Bilsteins. I spoke to some people at Maximum Motorsports and got some info.. I just wanted to see what you guys bought and how much of a difference they made? I am just trying to justify the $2000+ I'll be spending for front / rear coil over conversions...

 

myponyrocks

I have more billet on the Stang than most women ha

Apr 18, 2004

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Jun 5, 2006

#2

• Jun 5, 2006

• #2

MM is pretty much the best quality stuff out there. I haven't done the conversion yet, but I went with the cheaper UPR tubular front end and coil over package.

 

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Torinalth

Founding Member

Jul 16, 2002

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Clayton NC

Jun 5, 2006

#3

• Jun 5, 2006

• #3

whya re you getting rear coilovers? its good to do honesstly.. however, you might not need to bother with the rear... save some cash and just buy HR springs and the rear bilsteins....

but, honestly, if you are thinking of coilover and k member/a-arms... i do hope that you have the rear fixed first.

some things just dont make sense to me, so if you dont mind, what are your goals with this setup. just seems odd that you have drag times in your signiture, and are looking for coilovers. just trying to figure out what you exactly want to do...

bottom line is, yes you will notice a difference from coilovers, k member, and a arms.... however its kinda a poor choice if the rear has not been fixed, as that is where the main problems with the mustang reside.

Torinalth

 

reeber

10 Year Member

Mar 10, 2004

574

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Berlin, NJ

Jun 5, 2006

#4

• Jun 5, 2006

• #4

Torinalth said:

whya re you getting rear coilovers? its good to do honesstly.. however, you might not need to bother with the rear... save some cash and just buy HR springs and the rear bilsteins....

but, honestly, if you are thinking of coilover and k member/a-arms... i do hope that you have the rear fixed first.

some things just dont make sense to me, so if you dont mind, what are your goals with this setup. just seems odd that you have drag times in your signiture, and are looking for coilovers. just trying to figure out what you exactly want to do...

bottom line is, yes you will notice a difference from coilovers, k member, and a arms.... however its kinda a poor choice if the rear has not been fixed, as that is where the main problems with the mustang reside.

Torinalth

Click to expand...

What do you mean by fixing the rear end? I know the solid axle is what gives that "live end" feel. I know I won't be able to fix that. yeah, I do drag race the car, just for fun and to monitor what mods make what kind of difference, but my ultimate goal is to have a very streetable show car. I am about 1/3 done the cutom stereo, need paint, wheels, brakes, seats, and suspension, some minor power changes, then it should be done.

When I spoke to the rep. at Max. Motorsports, he told me that he highly advised doing both front and rear coil overs to ensure 25% weight distribution to each wheel and 300LB front springs. He advised HIGHLY to do both. He said that the difference will only really be able to be seen with both front and rear coil over installation. I am the kind of guy who wants the best of everything and need to make sure it's done 100% right with no shortcuts. That's why i am going with MM products.

 

GT12207

Member

Feb 5, 2003

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California

Jun 5, 2006

#5

• Jun 5, 2006

• #5

I'm going the same route as you soon. For the rear, get either the MM Torque Arm or Evolution Motorsports' Tri-link setup. Both have the same price.

Like you, I'm also planning on spending about $2,000 on suspension. Basically the MM coilover kit ($1,700), MM K-member ($650), MM a-arm ($350), EvM's tri-link ($425), and a bunch of other stuff i'm forgetting.

My advice is, if you're going to drop $2,000 (mostly on the front), might as well drop another $400 on either the torque arm or the trilink. With either one of those, your rear will be somewhat comparable to the Cobra's IRS.

BTW, what front and rear coil-over spring rates did MM suggest you get?


Also, before anyone jumps in and criticizes us for spending 2+ grand on suspension, please go drive a BASE model BMW 3-series first. I was committed to suspension after I drove my mom's 1994 BMW 318i that she bought for $4,000. That thing is 12 years old, but it handles 99999 times better than our cars, no joke!

 

S

san~man

O-G

Founding Member

Nov 29, 1999

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A little grass shack on a big lava rock

Jun 5, 2006

#6

• Jun 5, 2006

• #6

Don't do the front without fixing the rear first, meaning a good set of LCA's, PHB and T/A if you're going all out.

Depending on your needs, MM usually recommends installing a PHB and LCA's first to fix the rear, over installing shocks/struts and springs first.

FWIW, I had the F/R coilovers on my car, and the rears gave me problems. Luckily the shop that installed them was kind enough to take them back and exhange them out for H&R SS and regular Bilsteins. To me, other than pure ride quality, there wasn't much difference between the two.

 

R

rpburnette

Member

May 22, 2003

152

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Tampa, FL

Jun 5, 2006

#7

• Jun 5, 2006

• #7

I have done the MM front and rear coilover setup. I am using 350lb front springs and I think 250's in the rear, whatever is in my sig is correct for spring rate. The ride is very harsh over bumps and the potholes are bad, but it corners a crap load better than what I had before. I had Steeda sport springs and tokica 5-way adj shocks front and rear. I also have MM's rear lower control arms and I am waiting to install the panhard bar. I don't ever plan on doing the k-member, that is really for all out racing, not street use, safety issues. I also am waiting to see how much power I want before I get the torque arm. I am not sure if I will need the regular of heavy duty. I eventually want a decent car for the twistys, but also one that can be driven on the street.

Just keep doing research. I researched a year before deciding on the coilover setup. Take your time and do it right the first time and you will be rewarded.

 

NO BRAKES

New Member

Feb 8, 2006

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Avon Lake, Ohio

Jun 5, 2006

#8

• Jun 5, 2006

• #8

the mm stuff is the best out there. I just put the mm k member with lower control arms, coil overs up front of my project car. Converting to the 4.6 dohc in a fox. I also have the d&d k member with their a arms and coil over kit in a 10.90 drag car. The mm k member seems to be built better than the d&d k member. for the price d&d is better by far. But for quality... mm appears to be the best. Both of my cars have solid lower control arms, with adjustable uppers and springs. I dont have any complaints. hope this helps??

 

reeber

10 Year Member

Mar 10, 2004

574

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38

Berlin, NJ

Jun 5, 2006

#9

• Jun 5, 2006

• #9

I did get the upper and lower rear control arms and currently have the eibach prokit springs and shocks for the rear. I think I'll just listen to MM and go with what they advise. you guys pretty much say the same. Thanks guys

 

tomustang

Psychotic Member

Founding Member

Jun 8, 2000

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McLean Hospital

Jun 5, 2006

#10

• Jun 5, 2006

• #10

reeber said:

I did get the upper and lower rear control arms and currently have the eibach prokit springs and shocks for the rear. I think I'll just listen to MM and go with what they advise. you guys pretty much say the same. Thanks guys

Click to expand...

streetable is the key, just don't go to high on the spring rates (wheel rate for coil-over) for the street since it's a show/street car that you drag race some times

 

blacknblue2002

Member

Jul 3, 2005

159

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18

Va Beach, Va

Jun 5, 2006

#11

• Jun 5, 2006

• #11

I have the MM front/rear coilover kit and I think the handling is noticeably smoother than the eibach/tokico setup I had in my old '97 mustang. I'll send out a warning though...the ride is definately rougher. Friends hate riding with me, and back seat riders usually hit their heads quite a bit...that's fine....now I don't have to act like a taxi driver to everybody and I've removed the rear seat. Another warning would be that if you're not very adept at tuning the suspension, I would have someone professionally allign everything. I've worked on the front for hours and I can never adjust the caster/camber just right. I always end up with slightly off tire wear

 

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bdcardinal

tree hugger

Jun 10, 2003

3,612

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69

santa barbara, CA

Jun 5, 2006

#12

• Jun 5, 2006

• #12

love my setup. the ride is more harsh on rough roads, but it more than makes up for it in the twisties. definately get the MM caster/camber plates no matter which setup you go with.

 

BennyBlown2v

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Dec 9, 2004

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Carmel, INdiana

Jun 5, 2006

#13

• Jun 5, 2006

• #13

300-350lbs in the front is a good spring rate to start with for street/autox/drag. My setup is 350# in the front, 575# in the rear (Cobra IRS, heh) - ride quality is awesome, very quiet when setup correctly, grips like a mofo. Honestly though, for a street setup don't bother with aftermarket front A-arms or K-member, the safety issues with replacing those parts with tubular ones is a big deal IMO... But yeah, for sure get some rear control arms, and a panhard bar wouldn't be a bad idea either.

 

C

comporange04GT

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Jun 19, 2005

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Jun 5, 2006

#14

• Jun 5, 2006

• #14

Has anyone experience any increase in noise from a MM coil over conversion. I have seen cars with cheaper kits and they seem to have an annoying squeak when they roll over bumps.

 

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bdcardinal

tree hugger

Jun 10, 2003

3,612

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santa barbara, CA

Jun 5, 2006

#15

• Jun 5, 2006

• #15

i have a squeak with mine. i have to dissassemble everything and see what is going on. i had a local shop do the install for me and ive had to redo pretty much everything else.

 

S

san~man

O-G

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Nov 29, 1999

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Jun 5, 2006

#16

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• #16

comporange04GT said:

Has anyone experience any increase in noise from a MM coil over conversion. I have seen cars with cheaper kits and they seem to have an annoying squeak when they roll over bumps.

Click to expand...

I did. It seemed that the rear coilover spring was rubbing against the threaded collar that the bottom of the spring mount attaches to. Nothing we did made it go away. I eventually removed the setup.

 

BennyBlown2v

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Dec 9, 2004

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Carmel, INdiana

Jun 5, 2006

#17

• Jun 5, 2006

• #17

comporange04GT said:

Has anyone experience any increase in noise from a MM coil over conversion. I have seen cars with cheaper kits and they seem to have an annoying squeak when they roll over bumps.

Click to expand...

As I mentioned, when setup right they aren't loud! You can make bushings for the springs if they are squeeking in the seats (thin rubber, delrin, or other plastic type sheet works great). Mine however had a nasty squeek in the drivers rear on the delrin pivot ball...turns out I didn't grease it enough when doing the install - lowered it out and re-greased, works great again and no sound!!

 

R

rpburnette

Member

May 22, 2003

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Tampa, FL

Jun 6, 2006

#18

• Jun 6, 2006

• #18

My suspension isn't noisy, but b/c of the high spring rate, the car rattles when I go over rough roads (the dash and all the loose items in the car). Lets face it, the Mustang wasn't built to be a quite ride. If I wanted a quite, smooth ride, I would have gotten a different car.

 

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Pennywise2

Banned

May 16, 2006

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Jun 6, 2006

#19

• Jun 6, 2006

• #19

MM and Steeda are both good reputable companys to deal with.I agree getting something streetable is the key
lol.