Yo yo, thats me!! I highly recommend either the CSU or Extreme Velocities hat, EV being the best. For your carb, depending on engine size, I recommend 650-750 and it has to be a double pumper. Either Demon or Holley. The carb needs the choke tower removed, install jet extensions in the secondaries, over jet the secondaries, and install nitrophyl floats. Step up to a .130 needle and seat too. There are lots of fine tuning things that can be done like messing with the emulsion tubes and air bleeds, but you can get by without. I was making 625 at the flywheel at only 4900 rpms before hitting fuel cut. And that was with out of the box TrickFlow heads, 342 stroker and X303 cam. If your using a 302 and not making more than 8-9 lbs, you can get by with an aftermarket mechanical fuel pump. I used a Carter street pump and boost referenced it to the carb hat so it would build 1 psi per lb of boost. So 18 psi at 10 lbs of boost.
I just read your setup and with worked heads and a 347 you too can easily have a 700 horse combo like I did, but you'll for sure need an electric fuel pump setup. Aeromotive makes complete bolt in kits that include a sumped fuel tank, pump, boost referenced regulator, and all lines and fittings. Thats the best and easiest way to go. I could have hit 700 fwhp if I had the right fuel setup. There are other little things that need to be done so let me know what you want to know.
Thanks i am running EFI now but am considering the cost effectiveness of going with a carb. I have heard of CSU but is there a webiste for the EV company??
Yo yo, thats me!! I highly recommend either the CSU or Extreme Velocities hat, EV being the best. For your carb, depending on engine size, I recommend 650-750 and it has to be a double pumper. Either Demon or Holley. The carb needs the choke tower removed, install jet extensions in the secondaries, over jet the secondaries, and install nitrophyl floats. Step up to a .130 needle and seat too. There are lots of fine tuning things that can be done like messing with the emulsion tubes and air bleeds, but you can get by without. I was making 625 at the flywheel at only 4900 rpms before hitting fuel cut. And that was with out of the box TrickFlow heads, 342 stroker and X303 cam. If your using a 302 and not making more than 8-9 lbs, you can get by with an aftermarket mechanical fuel pump. I used a Carter street pump and boost referenced it to the carb hat so it would build 1 psi per lb of boost. So 18 psi at 10 lbs of boost.
I just read your setup and with worked heads and a 347 you too can easily have a 700 horse combo like I did, but you'll for sure need an electric fuel pump setup. Aeromotive makes complete bolt in kits that include a sumped fuel tank, pump, boost referenced regulator, and all lines and fittings. Thats the best and easiest way to go. I could have hit 700 fwhp if I had the right fuel setup. There are other little things that need to be done so let me know what you want to know.
Deths - if it's a stock block, you're rolling the dice on the block's longevity once you cross the 450-550 rwhp line. Hate to see all those pretty rotating bits get pretzeled when an over-boosted stock block splits through valley. And don't pay too much mind to those that post and say it didn't happen to theirs. It's just like prostate cancer - live long enough and you'll get it. Boost it up to those levels and use the boost - you'll eventually break it. If you're serious about those power levels, invest in a Dart.
I was figuring around 700-750 at the flywheel if I had a custom cam, AFR 185 heads and I could spin the motor to 6000 rpms. Im not sure if you have a stroker or not, but a D-1 with AFR heads and a proper tune will make those numbers easily. Obviously count on 50-75 less if you have a 302, but again these are ballpark figures. Not sure if the sportsman 302 can take that kinda power though.