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Whose fault is it? Rear control arms or springs?

  • Thread starter Thread starter No.11
  • Start date Start date Nov 2, 2009
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No.11

10 Year Member
Oct 13, 2009
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Nov 8, 2009
#21
  • Nov 8, 2009
  • #21
I_AM_CANADIAN said:
If your transmission is sitting crooked, have you checked your motor mounts?
Click to expand...

I will check that.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
17,944
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Massachusetts
Nov 8, 2009
#22
  • Nov 8, 2009
  • #22
Judging by that picture, your pass side enging mount looks blown. Motor looks tilted to the pass side
 

tannerc91gt

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Nov 8, 2009
#23
  • Nov 8, 2009
  • #23
I'd definitly look into the motor mounts like everyone is saying and as for trans mount bolt not lining up. Try jacking up one half of the trans a little bit to help rotate it into place and then put the bolt in, it worked for me yesterday
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
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Nov 8, 2009
#24
  • Nov 8, 2009
  • #24
My guess, the engine mounts are blown causing the engine to sit low and raising the end of the trans. As a result, the driveshaft is now higher in the tunnel and rubs.

If you change the engine mounts, might as well change the trans mount too
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
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43,260
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#25
  • Nov 8, 2009
  • #25
Also, what bolt are you trying to replace on the trans mount? It was missing a bolt?
 

No.11

10 Year Member
Oct 13, 2009
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Nov 8, 2009
#26
  • Nov 8, 2009
  • #26
Mustang5L5 said:
My guess, the engine mounts are blown causing the engine to sit low and raising the end of the trans. As a result, the driveshaft is now higher in the tunnel and rubs.

If you change the engine mounts, might as well change the trans mount too
Click to expand...

This sounds like the plan right there.

Do you know if LRS's trans and engine mounts come with bolts? The ones I have are worn out.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
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#27
  • Nov 8, 2009
  • #27
The ones i'd installed haven't.
 

No.11

10 Year Member
Oct 13, 2009
614
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48
Los Angeles
Nov 8, 2009
#28
  • Nov 8, 2009
  • #28
Mustang5L5 said:
Also, what bolt are you trying to replace on the trans mount? It was missing a bolt?
Click to expand...
Yeah it was missing one of the two that bolt the trans mount. These ones:

 

Maryland Stang

Active Member
Aug 21, 2002
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Nov 9, 2009
#29
  • Nov 9, 2009
  • #29
They're just bolts. You can replace them with any Grade 8 bolt and you'll be fine. Yeah, that tranny is not supposed to be crooked like that and that's why it's hitting. Like everybody is saying, put new tranny and motor mounts in it and you'll be fine.

I'm going to give you a little more advice because I think it's appropriate given the apparent condition of your car. Take the car to a respected front end alignment shop and have them inspect the entire suspension, front and rear. I'd tell you to do it yourself but I don't think you have the knowledge or experience to ensure your own safety in this area. I suspect you're going to find a lot of blown out bushings, bad struts and shocks and possibly worn steering linkage.
 

No.11

10 Year Member
Oct 13, 2009
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Nov 9, 2009
#30
  • Nov 9, 2009
  • #30
Maryland Stang said:
They're just bolts. You can replace them with any Grade 8 bolt and you'll be fine. Yeah, that tranny is not supposed to be crooked like that and that's why it's hitting. Like everybody is saying, put new tranny and motor mounts in it and you'll be fine.

I'm going to give you a little more advice because I think it's appropriate given the apparent condition of your car. Take the car to a respected front end alignment shop and have them inspect the entire suspension, front and rear. I'd tell you to do it yourself but I don't think you have the knowledge or experience to ensure your own safety in this area. I suspect you're going to find a lot of blown out bushings, bad struts and shocks and possibly worn steering linkage.
Click to expand...

I did have it inspected and they found bad rear shocks, told me my springs were ready to go but could still last me a little longer, and found a bad inner tie rod end.

So here is my list of parts I'm ordering from latemodelrestoration.com:

Item Number
EIB-3510 79-04 EIBACH PRO-KIT SPRING SET FOR MUSTANG

$ 219.99
LRS-2457G 79-93 BRAKE PEDAL PAD, 5.0 LOGO, 5 SPEED
$ 9.99
LRS-2457H 79-93 CLUTCH PEDAL PAD, 5.0 LOGO, 5 SPEED
$ 9.99
LRS-6068A 79-98 TRANSMISSION MOUNT
$ 31.99
MM-MMSMM1 79-95 SOLID MOTOR MOUNTS, 5.0L
$ 54.99
Order Total: $ 326.95

My question is...will I see the benefit of these springs on a daily driven to work and school with some spirited driving in between and maybe a track day once in a year? I was going to go for the Ford Racing C-springs but it states a deterioration in ride quality, so that turned me away from those. Or maybe they're just the only honest ones.

And I'm rethinking the 5.0 pedal pads lol...seems kind of cheesy. I'm missing a clutch pad (been clutching it with just the metal...) and might as well switch out the funky looking brake pedal I have right now.
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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Nov 9, 2009
#31
  • Nov 9, 2009
  • #31
Solid motor mounts? I'd revise that order as fast as possible.
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
Jul 3, 2009
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Maryland
Nov 9, 2009
#32
  • Nov 9, 2009
  • #32
2000xp8 said:
Solid motor mounts? I'd revise that order as fast as possible.
Click to expand...

haha im ordering a set here soon. but im not worried about how much they make the car shake.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
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Nov 9, 2009
#33
  • Nov 9, 2009
  • #33
Yeah, i wouldn't go solid motor mounts either on a DD application.

Race car...go for it.
 

Maryland Stang

Active Member
Aug 21, 2002
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Greenville, NC
Nov 9, 2009
#34
  • Nov 9, 2009
  • #34
No.11 said:
I did have it inspected and they found bad rear shocks, told me my springs were ready to go but could still last me a little longer, and found a bad inner tie rod end.
Click to expand...

Take it back and have them inspect the rear closely. There's no way you can have that much damage to the motor and tranny mounts and not have blown out rear bushings. A lot of shops won't even look at them because they can be difficult to replace. If it needs them then you really need to put them in. Also if the quad shocks aren't new then they need to be replaced too.
 

No.11

10 Year Member
Oct 13, 2009
614
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Los Angeles
Nov 9, 2009
#35
  • Nov 9, 2009
  • #35
Ok I haven't placed the order yet. Are these better? Or should I go with the +$30 Prothane ones that are also urethane?
LRS-6038PR 84-95 URETHANE MOTOR MOUNTS, 5.0/5.8L, SOLD AS PAIR

$ 89.99

Maryland dude I think I am going to take your advice. I'm way in over my head on this one.
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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Nov 9, 2009
#36
  • Nov 9, 2009
  • #36
No.11 said:
Ok I haven't placed the order yet. Are these better? Or should I go with the +$30 Prothane ones that are also urethane?
LRS-6038PR 84-95 URETHANE MOTOR MOUNTS, 5.0/5.8L, SOLD AS PAIR

$ 89.99

Maryland dude I think I am going to take your advice. I'm way in over my head on this one.
Click to expand...

Those are a better choice.

You may also be the first person in stangnet history to admit you are in over your head. Your car will thank you for being honest, by running better and being more reliable. Most guys just throw parts at a problem.
 

blackstangt

Member
May 31, 2004
460
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ny
Nov 11, 2009
#37
  • Nov 11, 2009
  • #37
Get the motor and transmission mounts, urethane mounts are good. When they arrive, go to a Home depot or somewhere where you can get grade 8 bolts for them if not included (or buy from the site you got the pics from). This is certainly a problem, fix it first. See where your driveshaft sits afterward.

If you still have clearance issues, get some new springs, C springs aren't that bad and would be a little stiffer than stock. I wouldn't get anything that claims to lower the car, given the current problems.

If you have a bad inner tie-rod end, you should replace the steering rack and outer tie-rods if necessary before getting an alignment.

The oil under the car is probably from a bad lower intake gasket, not a hard job, but also not as urgent as the others. I would keep an eye on your oil level though and replace as necessary.

Pep-boys and the like are not the most knowledgeable group in most cases, if you know a mustang owner who does a lot of maintenance to their car or a privately owned shop with a good reputation, the mechanics may be more experienced.
 

No.11

10 Year Member
Oct 13, 2009
614
10
48
Los Angeles
Nov 12, 2009
#38
  • Nov 12, 2009
  • #38
I just noticed today that my car is missing quad shocks... could that be causing any of my problems?

And also, I don't need a dampener inside my springs, right? The rears?
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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Nov 12, 2009
#39
  • Nov 12, 2009
  • #39
No.11 said:
I just noticed today that my car is missing quad shocks... could that be causing any of my problems?

And also, I don't need a dampener inside my springs, right? The rears?
Click to expand...

Missing quad shocks usually cause wheel hop when launching.
While you should probably have them, it has nothing to do with your driveshaft alignment issue.

For the springs, put energy suspension isolators on all 4 of the springs.
 

No.11

10 Year Member
Oct 13, 2009
614
10
48
Los Angeles
Nov 14, 2009
#40
  • Nov 14, 2009
  • #40
Update: I finally got another look under the car. Last time the limited space under there made it difficult to move around. So this time I put it up on blocks...it seemed pretty safe.



So with the new ground clearance I went ahead and jacked up the transmission, slid the mount into place, and put in the first bolt, which went in just fine. The next one was a little different (longer and probably smaller spiral). I put that one in and it seemed to be going in just fine until the end where it seemed to pop out. So I decided that I'm just going to get the exact bolt I need to make sure it's done right. If for any reason the spiral is worn out then I'm just going to use a lugnut to keep it in place.

So I decided to call it a day for now. The mount itself seems to be ok, but I will replace it anyway in the future just to make sure. Now, the motor mounts are a different story. Those look pretty beat up. Check it out:



That'll be another day. You know, once I get more money lol... plus I haven't driven my car in almost 3 weeks!!! My girlfriend has been driving me around in her Scion xA nice little car, but I need my Mustang.

It seems that my exhaust pipes are also almost touching with the driveshaft:



From the picture it sort of looks like the driveshaft itself is out of place, but that's probably just the picture's angle. The passenger side of the muffler is closer to the center of the car. I don't think that's giving me any issues, though.

I also checked my springs. Is it good for them to be bent like this, even while the car is lifted all the way? Would anyone say, "Those need to be replaced." I'm just looking for a justification lol... to spend the $220 for some Eibach Pro-kits as a Christmas gift to myself.



So that's the update for now. I was beginning to get depressed since I hadn't driven it. I was even hoping that something would fall from a plane in the sky and land on my car, total it, and their insurance would kick in and I would have money to buy another car. But noooooo! Now that I've worked on my car a little more, I feel way too attached to it. Now I can really call it my car!
 
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