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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Whose fault is it? Rear control arms or springs?

  • Thread starter Thread starter No.11
  • Start date Start date Nov 2, 2009
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No.11

10 Year Member
Oct 13, 2009
614
10
48
Los Angeles
Nov 14, 2009
#41
  • Nov 14, 2009
  • #41
Also will this filter be a direct swap to the one I currently have?



change to

BBK High Performance Cold Air Intake Replacement Filter (86-95 5.0 V8) at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
17,945
224
Massachusetts
Nov 14, 2009
#42
  • Nov 14, 2009
  • #42
Yup, basically all you'd have to do is take the elbow out of the new kit and swap it on after the MAF
 

No.11

10 Year Member
Oct 13, 2009
614
10
48
Los Angeles
Nov 15, 2009
#43
  • Nov 15, 2009
  • #43
Mustang5L5 said:
Yup, basically all you'd have to do is take the elbow out of the new kit and swap it on after the MAF
Click to expand...

Alright I think I'm gonna swap it out. The one I have now looks old and ugly...and ridiculously large.
 

No.11

10 Year Member
Oct 13, 2009
614
10
48
Los Angeles
Nov 16, 2009
#44
  • Nov 16, 2009
  • #44
Well I sent my grandfather (retired) to the pick your parts to see if he could find anything good. No, I'm not taking advantage of my grandfather's old age. He would be happy to go there every day, trust me lol... Mainly he's looking for a new seat for me. My current one's backrest is worn out and it causes me to lean back more from the right side. He's also of course looking for that bolt which has eluded us, and then just some exterior moldings and maybe an armrest. Also, hopefully, he brings me a courtesy light crane thingy base in black...I'm using a red one right now. All black interior with a red light crane base.

Oh yeah and I also need a new door. So also if anyone on here has any of those parts and you're local (southern california) hit me up with a PM. Later!
 

No.11

10 Year Member
Oct 13, 2009
614
10
48
Los Angeles
Nov 17, 2009
#45
  • Nov 17, 2009
  • #45
I'm feeling very noobish for having to ask this...but... do our cars come stock with the springs all by themselves like this?


Or should they have anything going between them? I guess I should know but I really don't know jack about suspension. All I know is how to replace shocks lol... what should the suspension setup on my car look like? Anyone got pictures and an explanation?

Sorry about all the noobishness and questions. I have a lot to learn!
 

Maryland Stang

Active Member
Aug 21, 2002
1,656
30
39
Greenville, NC
Nov 17, 2009
#46
  • Nov 17, 2009
  • #46
It looks just like it supposed to.
 

No.11

10 Year Member
Oct 13, 2009
614
10
48
Los Angeles
Nov 17, 2009
#47
  • Nov 17, 2009
  • #47
Maryland Stang said:
It looks just like it supposed to.
Click to expand...

Ok, that's good. My grandpa made me doubt myself. He went to the junkyard and found a 5.0 with what I guess were aftermarket coilovers. He came back and said that maybe my car is missing something, and that my springs look like crap. So now I have my excuse to buy new springs, hehehe!
 

No.11

10 Year Member
Oct 13, 2009
614
10
48
Los Angeles
Dec 14, 2009
#48
  • Dec 14, 2009
  • #48
What is the size of the stock driveshaft? I'm beginning to think the one I have might be off another car.

In any case, this week is finals week and then I'm also on vacation from work so I'll actually have time to stay home and give the car some attention! This issue will be resolved during this vacation! It has already taken too long!

I also have a starting problem I'll be looking into. Sometimes (random, it seems) I turn the key and nothing happens. Fuel pump primes, gauges go on, but when I turn the key to start, NOTHING happens. No clicking, NOTHING. Not even a sound. What does that sound like to all you guys? I'm thinking ignition switch? I bought a new starter as well but I'm thinking of returning it for now since the new one was replaced recently.

Any help is appreciated!
 
T

THOR74

New Member
Dec 5, 2009
72
0
0
Ontario, Canada
Dec 15, 2009
#49
  • Dec 15, 2009
  • #49
You can also check to see if your car has the proper suspension travel limiters, which are essentially rubber stoppers that prevent the suspension from actually bottoming out at each wheel. You can locate them by common sense. If nothing is found, they may have been lost/removed.

In general, I can recommend an excellent book by CHILTON called "FORD Mustang 1989-1993 Repair Manual", no. (8253) 26606. It is specific to your car and full of great info and diagrams etc.
 

No.11

10 Year Member
Oct 13, 2009
614
10
48
Los Angeles
Dec 15, 2009
#50
  • Dec 15, 2009
  • #50
Thanks, do you think you could take a picture of these suspension travel limiters? Also, if I replace springs, do I absolutely need the isolator/insulators? Thanks!
 

No.11

10 Year Member
Oct 13, 2009
614
10
48
Los Angeles
Dec 22, 2009
#51
  • Dec 22, 2009
  • #51
***UPDATE***

I had another look under the car. While underneath it, I noticed 2 things:

1. My driver's side upper control arm is broken.
2. Both lower control arms are missing bushings.

Does the broken upper control arm have anything to do with letting the driveshaft lift thereby rubbing the body?

What are the effects of missing bushings?

Thanks.
 

LiquidGT

Member
Oct 8, 2007
368
0
16
Near STL hell
Dec 22, 2009
#52
  • Dec 22, 2009
  • #52
Yeah that might do it... doesnt sound good at all. Did you check to see if the upper torque box is broken too, they're notorious for breaking?

Are the LCA's riding on the bolts???
 

No.11

10 Year Member
Oct 13, 2009
614
10
48
Los Angeles
Dec 22, 2009
#53
  • Dec 22, 2009
  • #53
Yep they are.
 

90lxcoupe

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 7, 2003
3,596
350
134
Dec 22, 2009
#54
  • Dec 22, 2009
  • #54
i hope your not driving the car
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
17,945
224
Massachusetts
Dec 22, 2009
#55
  • Dec 22, 2009
  • #55
WOW. Whoever put this car together really cobbled stuff together huh?

Your rear suspension is unsafe. Please don't drive the car until you fix it
 
S

Stangster007

New Member
Dec 22, 2009
5
0
1
Dec 22, 2009
#56
  • Dec 22, 2009
  • #56
Don't even think of crawling under the car with it sitting on concrete blocks, they can crack and disintegrate to little pieces in an instant. Stick with wood (4x4s) or metal only. (seriously heavy-wall tubing, or short sections of thinner wall tubing (0.25"+) that has the ends capped with welded plate)
 

No.11

10 Year Member
Oct 13, 2009
614
10
48
Los Angeles
Dec 23, 2009
#57
  • Dec 23, 2009
  • #57
So I guess I'm in the market for a new set of control arms. Will I be good with the cheap no brand control arm kit from either AmericanMuscle or Latemodelrestoration? Or is it more than worth the extra money for a better quality set? If so, any suggestions? What is the difference between tubular and boxed?

I'm also thinking the UPR chrome moly ones.
 

Maryland Stang

Active Member
Aug 21, 2002
1,656
30
39
Greenville, NC
Dec 23, 2009
#58
  • Dec 23, 2009
  • #58
No.11 said:
***UPDATE***

I had another look under the car. While underneath it, I noticed 2 things:

1. My driver's side upper control arm is broken.
2. Both lower control arms are missing bushings.

Does the broken upper control arm have anything to do with letting the driveshaft lift thereby rubbing the body?

What are the effects of missing bushings?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I think I mentioned that back on November 11.

Maryland Stang said:
Take it back and have them inspect the rear closely. There's no way you can have that much damage to the motor and tranny mounts and not have blown out rear bushings. A lot of shops won't even look at them because they can be difficult to replace.
Click to expand...

The broken arm and missing bushings will allow the rearend to move around. If it does it excessively you will feel it and could possibly loose control of the car especially on wet roads.

At this point I'm am going to extremely recommend you take the car to a Mustang shop and have it inspected. If it has a broken control arm the chances are high that there is torque box damage and you have proven that you don't really know what to look for since it took you 6 weeks to notice a broken control arm and missing bushings.

YOUR CAR IS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
15 Year Member
Jul 3, 2009
5,129
1,666
204
Maryland
Dec 23, 2009
#59
  • Dec 23, 2009
  • #59
yea pretty much what he said... my suggestion is DMP out there Dante is more known for his Lightning work but im sure he could handle a fox...
 
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