Why is it Turbo systems are still in the dark?

94gts · May 24, 2005

BlackVert said:
it is a driver's side header for a single turbo setup.

yea but it was a passenger long tube. it has been flipped around

BlackVert · May 24, 2005

94gts said:
yea but it was a passenger long tube. it has been flipped around

i understand. you think oink may have used a long tube and plugged the egr bung?

91LX_5L · May 24, 2005

I was thinking T70 for a turbo as well. Think its a good idea?

What about the Super T70, its rated for what 630hp? Not quite as powerfull but its pretty much $150 cheaper, think its worth it for the Master Power T70?

94gts · May 24, 2005

BlackVert said:
i understand. you think oink may have used a long tube and plugged the egr bung?

i think someone said something about longtubes......

either way its a flipped header from the passenger side. if you were to imagine it on the pass side, thats where the bung would be.

1105 · May 24, 2005

its a flipped shorty header... no long tube. One primary was cut and moved back (the one that loops over all of them) to make it work with the AC. That thing you have circled in on 90% of shorty headers and it is the EGR bung.

91LX_5L · May 24, 2005

91LX_5L said:
I was thinking T70 for a turbo as well. Think its a good idea?

What about the Super T70, its rated for what 630hp? Not quite as powerfull but its pretty much $150 cheaper, think its worth it for the Master Power T70?

Also could someone explian the waste gate, would you go with a 44mm unit. I see most say 10-18psi adjustable. What if I only wanted to run about 8psi on my T70 for traction problems and the fact that my internals are stock and dont feel like blowin a headgasket right away lol...

Explain turbo guru's

1105 · May 24, 2005

the only thing a larger wastegate will do is help flow more exhaust gas past the turbo. ex... a little 1.5L honda with a turbo has no need for say a 44mm wastegate, a 25mm would do just fine since there is less exhaust circulating... Bigger displacment engines will need a bigger gate to flow the extra exhaust. To raise and lower boost, you'll either have to swap out the springs in the gate, or buy a boost controller, either way will work.

1105 · May 24, 2005

just saw your post about the "SUPER T70" DONT BUY IT! The super T70 is a MP knock off. Cheap **** is used to make it, and it isnt balanced properly so everything goes to hell on it fast! Plus it'll build boost slower since there is more drag.

If you are looking at getting the master power t70, do not buy it from a guy called ssautochroms on ebay... Again, from what I've heard, he swaps out the impellers on the turbos to cheap ones which are also not balanced properly, and there goes the turbo.

visit www.boostedsystems.com if you are looking for a turbo. I picked up my T70 from him with the housing for $680 shipped. He was great to deal with and knew what he was talking about.

91LX_5L · May 24, 2005

haha crazy I was looking at that ssautochroms on ebay! lol thanks bud.

Ill make sure I get a new T70 by master power.

What size wastegate do you think I should get? 44mm can you get them too big and it will hut performance/cause problems or not?

Im guessing to switch the springs in the gate is fairly cheap? what about the boost controller?

sorry for so many questions, bear with me im still learning (at least im lookin in the right direction...TURBO) I have been reading quite a bit on turbomustangs.

How do you like your T70, 8psi think will satisfy me?

1105 · May 24, 2005

my T70 with 10psi was overkill on the street... 8psi will probably be just about the same. I ran a 35mm wastegate I got from ssautochrome and it stayed steady at 10psi for the short time it was running. I'm going to be moving to a tial wastegate when i get some extra cash.

Springs are fairly cheap, but who wants to get down there and swap out the springs until they are happy? Not me! I just got a manual boost controller in the mail today, just turn a dial, test it out until you get the desired boost. Electronic controller is easier, but costs a lot more. I dont THINK you can go too big on a wastegate, but could be wrong.

BlackVert · May 24, 2005

1105 said:
my T70 with 10psi was overkill on the street... 8psi will probably be just about the same. I ran a 35mm wastegate I got from ssautochrome and it stayed steady at 10psi for the short time it was running. I'm going to be moving to a tial wastegate when i get some extra cash.

Springs are fairly cheap, but who wants to get down there and swap out the springs until they are happy? Not me! I just got a manual boost controller in the mail today, just turn a dial, test it out until you get the desired boost. Electronic controller is easier, but costs a lot more. I dont THINK you can go too big on a wastegate, but could be wrong.

i like the idea of having a knob in the console i can turn to change the boost! how much does it cost? and what are you doing for a boost gauge?

1105 · May 24, 2005

The electric controllers arent cheap... I bought a used manual one for $25 off of Jesse. They go for about $45-$50 new.

For the boost gauge, I have an autometer sport comp gauge. I drilled and tapped a new hole in the back side of my intake tonight and put the fitting in there for the line.

91LX_5L · May 24, 2005

Ok now one part I dont get is what do u have to do with the exhaust? I want to keep my tips. Explain that haha I have no idea how that will work.

OinkAodeOink · May 24, 2005

Hey guys, yea thats part of the turbo setup you see.. It is indeed a shorty header flipped ( pass side) and the EGR bung is what you see. It was not a longtube header, btw. I have a brass cap over the EGR bung to block it off. There would be no real benifit to cut it off, and weld it shut.. so I just left it alone.

So to anyone who said you cant use shorty headers flipped on an SN95 with p/s a/c swaybar, stock brackets,ect.. It can be done, and done very simple actually.

BTW, 91LX... You can still have your stock catback, all you have to do is get a muffler shop to run a pipe from the downpipe, to a Y, which bolts right up to the factory catback location. Basically the Y pipe would take place of a X or H pipe. Or you can just run single 3" dumped, or to the back.

91LX_5L · May 25, 2005

could you not cut off the turbo side of the H pipe and just modify that? I would want to keep my tail pipes. Any diagram or pictures of this? Still kinda foggy lol

1105 · May 25, 2005

I dont know how your still foggy on this subject... Its fairly simple. Coming off of the turbo you'll have a single pipe, that cannot be changed. Once its under the car you spilt it into 2 pipes using a Y pipe, then connect both of the split ends into the mid pipe. Your mid pipe might need to be cut shorter if it is not a shorty pipe. This is basically what you'd need... Bring the downpipe under the car and have it start going backwards, then put a Y pipe in it and connect it to your mid pipe... Should look SOMETHING like this

94TURBO5 O · May 25, 2005

Damn Zach that's frigg'n beautiful!
Is that your piping? Very nice welding job.

94TURBO5 O · May 25, 2005

Here is my Y-Pipe set-up.

If you look at the way I set it up in the pic you can see the outlet pipe that connects to the Y-pipe.

From there it connects to the back of the turbo. So working from the turbo back it's the outlet pipe, Y-pipe, X-pipe and then that connects to my MAC catback.

OrangeMustangGt · May 25, 2005

with those turbo headers that brian makes, could your retain the smog pump, and still have the down pipes connect to a catted stock h-pipe if you used twin turbo's?

BlackVert · May 25, 2005

GreenMustangGt said:
with those turbo headers that brian makes, could your retain the smog pump, and still have the down pipes connect to a catted stock h-pipe if you used twin turbo's?

you should probably ask brian that question directly .... twin setups on sn95s are more of a challenge.

Why is it Turbo systems are still in the dark?

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