well i was out at the local crusing spot, and i raced a little. nothing to special or fast but when i went to go get food i came back to turn my car on, and it kept trying to turn over but didnt start??? i parked it a few other times that night and low and behold it was hard to start almost all of them.... could this be related to my car dying after i run it a little? any tips guys? i definetly hate trying to start my car in front of a bunch of hondas and having it not start... laughed at by a bunch of ricers is no fun, especially when most consider my car a "race" car but any tips would be wonderful
why is my car hard to start after i gun it a few times?
- Thread starter zeusmoto
- Start date
it is hard to tell... like it grinds like it is starting to turn over but never catches unless i keep cranking it....
my car is not happy i dont think it is a bad batt i got it last summer... and the cables look pretty good to me.... does this problem sound related to my car dying at idle after i get moving? more help please
my car is not happy i dont think it is a bad batt i got it last summer... and the cables look pretty good to me.... does this problem sound related to my car dying at idle after i get moving? more help pleaseassuming it cranks fine (turns over but does not catch), and it takes a bit to catch, i would check for spark when it wont start. have you checked your FP? what happens if you cycle the key on and off several times before making the first attempt to start?
codes?
(i did not address the starter "grinding" because i thought you might have chosen the wrong term for the anomoly).
good luck, Zeus.
codes?
(i did not address the starter "grinding" because i thought you might have chosen the wrong term for the anomoly).
good luck, Zeus.
cnograts on your 3,400th post... what would be the deal with spark.... could my plugs be bad? or fouled or what? i want to fix these problems... cause they suck.. by the way it starts fine now... so i dont know just after i get on it, it dies sometimes and wont start... hmm this is no good... you should be able to drive a car on the freeway without expecting it to die at the next stop light well hell
well hellcan you tell if it dies cuz it is losing ignition, or does it feel like a sensor/part is not 'catching' the dropping idle after running it on the freeway, etc?
on later foxes, there is a speed sensor that is supposed to keep the idle up around 1500 rpm when you let off the throttle while still moving (to keep it from dying as your does). just an idea. im not sure if you have one (i dont know much about the four eye differences).
after driving it the way you do to make it not start, i might pull a plug or two and see if they are fouled, etc. with EEC-IV, if you floor the pedal at start up, it will not fire the injectors (to clear flooding).
im not saying any of this is what ails you, it is just for info and things to maybe check out. intermittant problems are a real pain. that is all i can think of (fill me in, since im dumb - do you use duraspark or TFI?).
:OT: thanks for the post congrats, i guess. i dont care about the posts, but since you brought it up, that is over a one year and 16 day stretch. not bad, i dont think.
on later foxes, there is a speed sensor that is supposed to keep the idle up around 1500 rpm when you let off the throttle while still moving (to keep it from dying as your does). just an idea. im not sure if you have one (i dont know much about the four eye differences).
after driving it the way you do to make it not start, i might pull a plug or two and see if they are fouled, etc. with EEC-IV, if you floor the pedal at start up, it will not fire the injectors (to clear flooding).
im not saying any of this is what ails you, it is just for info and things to maybe check out. intermittant problems are a real pain. that is all i can think of (fill me in, since im dumb - do you use duraspark or TFI?).
:OT: thanks for the post congrats, i guess. i dont care about the posts, but since you brought it up, that is over a one year and 16 day stretch. not bad, i dont think.
If the starter turns the engine OK, here's some help. If it doesn't make another post and I will make some more suggestions on things to check.
Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs
1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park. Remove coil wire from distributor & and hold 3/8” away from engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Coil
B.) TFI module
C.) PIP sensor in distributor
D.) ECC relay next to computer
E.) Fuse links in wiring harness
F.) Ignition switch
G.) Computer
2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil
3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.
Two reasons:
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t ,then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4.
Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground. See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html for a description of the test connector. If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In pinch you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have
No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe -& hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness.
F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove vacuum line from regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while pump is running.
4.) Spark & fuel OK.
A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car.
B.) Failed computer (not very likely)
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off only likely if the engine has been worked on recently).
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order form the non HO engines.
Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs
1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park. Remove coil wire from distributor & and hold 3/8” away from engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Coil
B.) TFI module
C.) PIP sensor in distributor
D.) ECC relay next to computer
E.) Fuse links in wiring harness
F.) Ignition switch
G.) Computer
2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil
3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.
Two reasons:
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t ,then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4.
Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground. See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html for a description of the test connector. If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In pinch you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have
No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe -& hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness.
F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove vacuum line from regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while pump is running.
4.) Spark & fuel OK.
A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car.
B.) Failed computer (not very likely)
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off only likely if the engine has been worked on recently).
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order form the non HO engines.
cjman15
Banned
zeusmoto said:
All the "Cranks OK but no start" checklist is a way to eliminate the things that work so that you can find the things that don't and fix them. It does not fix anything by itsself - that's your job.
The checklist is a way to troubleshoot things in an organized and orderly fashion. That way you look at all the things that will cause the problem. Start at the top of the list and work your way down. The checklist will isolate 95% or better of the no start problems to a single component or small area that is easier to test and repair.
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