Will 94 MustangRear Disc Brakes Bolt up to a 1990?

I currently have a 1990 Mustang Gt, Ive already done the SN95 front spindles with PBR callipers. I also have the complete disc brake read end from a 1994 GT. I know that the 94 rear end is wider and I dont plan on installing the whole axle just the disc brakes. Is This a direct bolt on? I think I will have to also use the 94-95 master cylinder and propotioning valve which I have. I also have the stock 94 e-brake cables. Im assuming I have everything I need, can anyone confirm this or has anyone done this before? I know there are many ways to do the rear disc conversion but Im assuming this will way will work very well just not sure:shrug: . I know this is prolly not as common since there aren't many 94-95's that are sitting around in pieces and if they are the parts are expensive.
 
the only problem you will hav eis the fox i s a3/8" fitting and the sn is a 7/16" i found this out the hard way. there is no way to connect the sn's rea end with out useing the fox's body to axle line.

i wound up bending my own lines and making my own fittings to fix this problem. i am going to ms paint a diagram of what to do for another member later on if you would like i can pm it to you too.
 
The brakes is what makes the rear end wider. The axle on all 86-98 Mustangs is the same. The axles are 3/4" longer each side to clear the disks.

94-98 GT/V6's rear end parts are the same, this is a pretty common swap.
 
The axles are 3/4" longer each side to clear the disks.
That's incorrect. The rear axles on the sn95's are longer to allow for the ABS sensor. If a person doesn't care about ABS, they can keep the Fox axles and use the ?North Cobra? brackets for the rear disks. All of this should be in the brake FAQ.

To get an idea of what's involved with putting sn95 brakes (front or rear) on a Fox, look at the M2300K instructions:
http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-2300-K.pdf

Also, both the Corral and Stangnet have articles on sn95/M2300K brake installs on Foxes. They are also good references for what's really involved.

_________
Joe
 
Good info, but now how much wider are we talking about? I was planning on running a 275/40/17 or a 275/40 or 35/ 18 when I decided on which wheels I want to run. I didnt want to have to roll the fenders, will doing this swap make it so i have to? Also what was the deal with the brake lines being different sizes? If they are different won't swapping the entire axle hard line solve this?
 
Good info, but now how much wider are we talking about? I was planning on running a 275/40/17 or a 275/40 or 35/ 18 when I decided on which wheels I want to run. I didnt want to have to roll the fenders, will doing this swap make it so i have to? Also what was the deal with the brake lines being different sizes? If they are different won't swapping the entire axle hard line solve this?

I used the Ford ranger axles on my rear brake swap and I am running 275/40 17's on 98 Mustang GT rims. The clearance is fine everywhere, and I didn't have to roll the fenders. I did have to adjust the exhaust to keep it from rubbing on the tires.
 
I used the Ford ranger axles on my rear brake swap and I am running 275/40 17's on 98 Mustang GT rims. The clearance is fine everywhere, and I didn't have to roll the fenders. I did have to adjust the exhaust to keep it from rubbing on the tires.

I already have the complete 5 lug swap done and have been driving the car for a while, its just that I have a complete 1994 GT rear end sitting at my house and was thinking of installing the rear disc brakes while I have my motor out building a 306. I have Moser 31 spline 5 lug axles with Ranger drums. It appears as if I need longer axles to accomodate the disc brakes in the back, THIS is why Im concerned with tire fitment. I can run a 275/40/17 now just worried about the added length the disc set up will add.
 
I already have the complete 5 lug swap done and have been driving the car for a while, its just that I have a complete 1994 GT rear end sitting at my house and was thinking of installing the rear disc brakes while I have my motor out building a 306. I have Moser 31 spline 5 lug axles with Ranger drums. It appears as if I need longer axles to accomodate the disc brakes in the back, THIS is why Im concerned with tire fitment. I can run a 275/40/17 now just worried about the added length the disc set up will add.


Then the answer is simple. You don't NEED the 3/4" longer axles if you want to keep the stock width. Get the $150 www.northracecars.com brake brackets to use the SN95 brakes with your 31 spline stock Fox length axles. Or you can cut and modify the SN95 brackets to mount inside the housing flange like in this thread:

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=3123067#post3123067
 
Then the answer is simple. You don't NEED the 3/4" longer axles if you want to keep the stock width. Get the $150 www.northracecars.com brake brackets to use the SN95 brakes with your 31 spline stock Fox length axles. Or you can cut and modify the SN95 brackets to mount inside the housing flange like in this thread:

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=3123067#post3123067

Nice, I did some more reaserch and found the NC brackets myself, I saw the price and what they looked like I was thinking Im sure I could make the stock ones work. In the top pic from the other forum you linked me to, the bracket was cut, or NEEDED to be cut how many times? And where? It looks like he cut it in the diagonal and didnt need to. Does it only need to be cut at the bottom where the black marks are? And what is in the way in that area that makes you have to cut that bracket? What is so special about the NC brackets? Thanks again this is all great info. So as it sounds now if you have a complete 94-95 disc brake rear you can make everything fit on a earlier model.....
 
Nice, I did some more reaserch and found the NC brackets myself, I saw the price and what they looked like I was thinking Im sure I could make the stock ones work. In the top pic from the other forum you linked me to, the bracket was cut, or NEEDED to be cut how many times? And where? It looks like he cut it in the diagonal and didnt need to. Does it only need to be cut at the bottom where the black marks are? And what is in the way in that area that makes you have to cut that bracket? What is so special about the NC brackets? Thanks again this is all great info. So as it sounds now if you have a complete 94-95 disc brake rear you can make everything fit on a earlier model.....

Okay a few of my last questions were stupid, I didnt thouroughly read the Coral post until late last night. Heres my only negative thought on cutting and relocating the SN95 brackets.....So we all know that the 94-95 axles are longer due to the ABS ring and sensor. If you look at the second picture on the Coral post it is obvious that just moving the bracket behind the flange on the rear axle doesnt equally compensate for the width difference. For example, that mounting bracket needs to got back by about 3/4", but the flange on the rear end housing seems to only be 3/8" thick which putting the bracket on the back side of that isn't moving it the proper amount thus making the caliper to rotor gap on each side of the rotor. The inboard side of the caliper bracket looks dangerously close to the rotor. I know this has sliding calipers but Im sure being off almost 1/2" can be hard on the caliper slides. Just seeing that I think it might be better to use the NRC bracket, or either shim the modified stock bracket back. Also I couldnt figure out what the deal was with some people needing to use the piece of pipe to center the rotor?? Is that only if you are using the smaller hub diameter Ranger axles? Should I expect to do this with my Moser axles?
 
You need to cut out a portion to fit the bracket over the axle housing since the bracket fits on the inside of the flange. Yes, you would need to use some washers to shim the calipers so they fit right. But you are moving the bracket position inboard the width of the flange and the bracket since you are mounting it on the back of the flange. I'll post some pics of a friend's custom brackets mounted on the housing. He designed them so they position the calipers perfectly on the Fox length axles.

And yes, you really need the rings to center the rotors on the axles. I'm not sure about yours, but you would just have to measure them to see. But if Ranger drums fit, most likely the hubs are the same size.
 
+1 for the North Racecars Brackets good stuff

Damn Punisher you have a fleet of Stangs dont you...lol... Yeah I called NRC and talked to the guy there, that bracket kit with e-brake cables for $210 is really a pretty good price considering it also comes with new hardware, brake line fittings, new brackets and cables. I am hesitant to use washers to shim back the bracket to the proper depth. I think I will just buy the NRC kit, I know I could save about $150 making mine work, but theres is a direct bolt on and you can use the dust sheilds, to me thats less agrivation and less work which is worth the extra money. ONE OTHER QUESTION: What do I need to do as far as converting the hydraulic system????? Install the prop valve and master cylinder from the 94-95?? Thanks for all the info guys, I will try to post some pics when I have it finished.
 
some guy on corral made a few sets of brackets that would work with GT brakes and stock length axles. or you can just pick up NRC brackets and some cobra rators. you may have shave some of the pads off, or get the thinner cobra pads.

im not sure if the 94 ebrake cables will work, but i do know the FMS part numbers for the ones that do work. i got the 3 of them from ford for like $65. you can reuse your eclips and the brakcets that hold them to the control arm, those were $20 from ford.

you will have to modify your ebrake handle.

you will need to upgrade MC, as well as do the 3-2 port conversion and add an adjustable prop valve. might as well do the booster too. though its a pita to fit. on a pre 90 car, expect to massage the shock tower very lightly, though it would all be much easier with no engine in the way.
 
some guy on corral made a few sets of brackets that would work with GT brakes and stock length axles. or you can just pick up NRC brackets and some cobra rators. you may have shave some of the pads off, or get the thinner cobra pads.

im not sure if the 94 ebrake cables will work, but i do know the FMS part numbers for the ones that do work. i got the 3 of them from ford for like $65. you can reuse your eclips and the brakcets that hold them to the control arm, those were $20 from ford.

you will have to modify your ebrake handle.

you will need to upgrade MC, as well as do the 3-2 port conversion and add an adjustable prop valve. might as well do the booster too. though its a pita to fit. on a pre 90 car, expect to massage the shock tower very lightly, though it would all be much easier with no engine in the way.

Good news is that engine is currently out getting punched 30 over so I have the needed room which is why I want to do this now. You said 2 to 3 port conversion, is that done by installing the 94-95 unit or putting a plug in the stock 1990 one? Can you post some pics of the shock tower massaging and maybe some more pics of this setup installed?? I also want to install a line lock at the same time, can anyone make any suggestions of which one..id like to stay cheap. Thx again