will a car run ift he dist is 180degrees off?
- Thread starter urban96
- Start date
the problem im having now is once and a while the car will run kinda ruff, like its missing
when i set the timing before i didnt use where A is labled. i used where the little notch is
but today i tried setting it to where A is and it wont let me turn the dist that much, it just wants to stall out
ive tried moving it over a tooth on the dist but no change
when i set the timing before i didnt use where A is labled. i used where the little notch is
but today i tried setting it to where A is and it wont let me turn the dist that much, it just wants to stall out
ive tried moving it over a tooth on the dist but no change
Attachments
illwood
Member
Since you've already moved things, you should probably bring the engine to TDC and re-stab the distributor.
Also, is it possible that your elastomer is separating from your harmonic balancer? I'd give the outer ring a good shake to make sure it's still attached. That would also cause your timing marks not line up (and would be something to fix right away if it was on its way out).
Also, is it possible that your elastomer is separating from your harmonic balancer? I'd give the outer ring a good shake to make sure it's still attached. That would also cause your timing marks not line up (and would be something to fix right away if it was on its way out).
It will not run if the distributer is 180* off. It will give you a nice loud backfire when you try to start it with the dist 180* off though. Ask me how I know 
Your timing may be off but the distributer is not in wrong if it runs.
Your timing may be off but the distributer is not in wrong if it runs.
SVTCobra306
New Member
You can run the distributor 180 degrees backwards, just put the plug wires on backwards and be sure to remember you done it, otherwise it'll never run after a tuneup! lol.
Anyway, I second the Harmonic Balancer, I'd bet it's crapped on you and outside has slipped, causing your timing marks to be off.
Anyway, I second the Harmonic Balancer, I'd bet it's crapped on you and outside has slipped, causing your timing marks to be off.
balencer is new, its a ford racing one. maybe its a bad injector 
i have new ones ill replace those tomorrow and see if it helps any
i have new ones ill replace those tomorrow and see if it helps any
well i had the injectors (bought a set of cobra take offs that werent in the greatest shape when they arrived.. damn ebay.. live and learn. so i bought another set that are like new, just gotta swap em in)Grn92LX said:
like i said i oridg set the timing using that little cutout area of the timing pointer (set it to 14deg) and it ran pretty good most the time, once and a while it would feel sluggish and buck a little. i thought it was just the injectors. over the winter i read someones thread about setting timing and realized i had set mine wrong so today i wanted to set it the correct way using the side of the pointer like in the refrenced picture
the thing that made me think maybe i was 180 out was that when i turn the dist to get the mark anywhere near the "A" the car wants to stall out. do you think its possible with the balencer i have im actually supposed to use the little cutout to set timing instead of the "A" location?
Attachments
FMS-M-6316-B50 <-the balencer i have
*pic and specs*
Application:
Sporstman crankshaft damper for 5.0L Mustangs. Fits 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001 5.0L crankshafts with external balance.
Description:
TECH NOTES:
• Nodular iron crankshaft damper for late model 5.0L sportsman oval track racing
• Low cost performance damper
• Fits 1981-01 5.0L crankshafts with external balance, 50 oz.-in. balance factor
• 3-4 bolt pulley pattern
• 3.000" overall length
*pic and specs*
Application:
Sporstman crankshaft damper for 5.0L Mustangs. Fits 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001 5.0L crankshafts with external balance.
Description:
TECH NOTES:
• Nodular iron crankshaft damper for late model 5.0L sportsman oval track racing
• Low cost performance damper
• Fits 1981-01 5.0L crankshafts with external balance, 50 oz.-in. balance factor
• 3-4 bolt pulley pattern
• 3.000" overall length
xr8d302
I bought a 27" monitor to compensate for my lack o
My car ran with ridiculous backfires then stalled out when my dizzy was 180 out...I thought my car was about to explode, so i shut'er down...
how much was that balancer, Urban?
how much was that balancer, Urban?
CManT1914
New Member
Mine wouldn't even start with the dizzy 180* out. It backfired like MAD when I cranked it, but that's all she wrote.
ya when i first swapped heads and stuff i belive i had the dist 180 out. wouldnt start and backfired. swapped it 180 and it fired.CManT1914 said:
well today in my quest to solve this issue i set timing to 14 again the way i did before using the little notch and took it for a spin. idle-2K rpm it spudderd and got a slight backfire once and a while. if i got on it a bit and got the revs up it felt good (and no detonation).
so stumped i decided to swap out injectors and go from there. while i was pulling the upper intake off i seen my PCV was completely out of the groument and just hanging there
could that have been causing the wierd problems?
i didnt get to finish because it started raining
ill report back when i get it together 100%
CManT1914
New Member
urban96 said:so stumped i decided to swap out injectors and go from there. while i was pulling the upper intake off i seen my PCV was completely out of the groument and just hanging there
could that have been causing the wierd problems?
Not likely. In my experience, that has caused hanging idle, and surging idle, and running rich, not to mention plumes of smoke coming into the cabin from the oil splattering all over the rear of the engine and tranny and burning, lol. I thought my car was on fire!
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