Will sputter and die after drive

[Bligaderski]

I have a 1989 LX Coupe it has a 302 out of a 93 GT with several changes. I don’t know if you need to know any of these up grades but here you go, GT40 upper and lower, Trick Flow Stage 2 Cam, Under Drive Pulleys, and the battery has been relocated to the trunk. These are the only ones that pertain to the drive train.

Here is the problem I am having, when I drive to work in the morning at the same spot every day aprox 12 miles from the house. When I come to a stop at the light the car begins to sputter or mis then if you can’t get moving quickly it will die and not restart for 2 or 3 min (it seems like it's starving for fuel). I have replaced the coil and had the ign module checked both hot and cold (the ign mod was fine) I also have checked the fuel pressure both hot and cold and it is the same and with in specs. There is one other problem I have and I am not sure if it is related but the car will pretty much die when you take a long right hand curve such as the on or off ramp of the interstate when you get down past a half a tank as long as you don’t push the clutch in it will take off with in a few seconds. This has stranded me a few times and is really getting aggravating

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of a test lamp.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[Bligaderski]

Tried and failed

I tried to use the plug but got no response. This was a 4 cyl car that had a v8 conversion done. I also went to a friend’s house with a scanner and he got no response other that fuel pressure.

I think the problem might be the MAF sensor but I don’t know what else to CK. Could it possible be the fuel pressure regulator or the module inside of the distributor. Just don’t have a lot of experience with the 5.0 fuel injection systems to know the usual suspects