Will these wheels work in any way?

TireSmoknWindsr · Dec 20, 2003

At the junkyard they hauled in a V6 coupe w/ a good set of wheel/tires...its the 16"....and i doubt they will but would they work on my '66?

dodgestang · Dec 20, 2003

TireSmoknWindsr said:
At the junkyard they hauled in a V6 coupe w/ a good set of wheel/tires...its the 16"....and i doubt they will but would they work on my '66?

Sure they will, you will just have to plunk down a couple hundred dollars for the bolt on spacers which will effectively change the offset on the rims. If I recal correctly to put late model wheels on you need to get a one inch spacer. This is why you want the bolt on type of spacer.....the spacer gets bolted to the on, and torqued with lug nuts, and then the wheel gets bolted and torqued to the spacer which has another set of lugs on it.

TireSmoknWindsr · Dec 20, 2003

I hadn't saw those for the 16" wheels i dont think...i thought they were all for like the GT wheels. maybe both though...my concern was whether that would work on my front suspension b/c i dont have a negative wedge kit or anything and they are generally needed w/ 16s...or is that with disc brakes? because i have drum all around.

allcarfan · Dec 20, 2003

What year coupe? Measure the backspacing on those wheels. You want 4.5 or 4.75 backspacing. You can have custom made spacers for about $140. I might be selling my spacers soon...they are 3/4" thick.

Shane

dodgestang · Dec 20, 2003

TireSmoknWindsr said:
I hadn't saw those for the 16" wheels i dont think...i thought they were all for like the GT wheels. maybe both though...my concern was whether that would work on my front suspension b/c i dont have a negative wedge kit or anything and they are generally needed w/ 16s...or is that with disc brakes? because i have drum all around.

The problem with 16s is when the have the proper backspacing for an early mustang, if you a arm is in the stock location, many people have reported the rim hits the upper ball joint.....for those that have done the shelby a arm drop, its hit or miss...but most seem to clear ok.

allcarfan · Dec 20, 2003

dodgestang said:
The problem with 16s is when the have the proper backspacing for an early mustang, if you a arm is in the stock location, many people have reported the rim hits the upper ball joint.....for those that have done the shelby a arm drop, its hit or miss...but most seem to clear ok.

This is very much correct. 4.5" backspacing should work though

67efivert · Dec 20, 2003

could someone explain how the negative wedge helps out the ball joint is still gonna be in the same place???

dodgestang · Dec 20, 2003

67efivert said:
could someone explain how the negative wedge helps out the ball joint is still gonna be in the same place???

Stock upper a arm is located in posistion 'x'

Shelby a arm mod moves it to positon "x-1 inch"

all though the mount on the spindle is the same, the angle from the shock tower to spindle is decreased, so the top of the ball joint sits slighly lower.

Neg Wedge moves the a arm to position "x - 1.75 (I think) inch"

This further flattens the angle the a arm sits at from the shock towers and alters the posistion of the ball joint to spindle enough to cause binding requireing a small wedge to be placed in the ball joint....this is also the optimal steering geometry.

Randy'65 · Dec 21, 2003

dodgestang said:
The problem with 16s is when the have the proper backspacing for an early mustang, if you a arm is in the stock location, many people have reported the rim hits the upper ball joint.....for those that have done the shelby a arm drop, its hit or miss...but most seem to clear ok.

Why is it that when I mentioned this a couple weeks ago, I got blasted for it

One thing though, if it is oly a 7" wide rim, you don't have as much backspacing, so you may not have a problem, right?

dodgestang · Dec 21, 2003

Randy'65 said:
Why is it that when I mentioned this a couple weeks ago, I got blasted for it

One thing though, if it is oly a 7" wide rim, you don't have as much backspacing, so you may not have a problem, right?

I wasn't here a week ago.

I'm a new member

Yes, the problem is much less pronouced with the narrower rim one of the reaons some people run 16x8 in the rear and 16x7 in the front.

67efivert · Dec 22, 2003

i understand what ur saying dodge but it didnt seem to help any on mine when i did it and also u got to think when the suspension articulates up and down its gonna go closer and farther away anyway like going over a speed bump at an angle one arm could move as much as 4 inches so its still possible fo it to hit the rim

dodgestang · Dec 22, 2003

67efivert said:
i understand what ur saying dodge but it didnt seem to help any on mine when i did it and also u got to think when the suspension articulates up and down its gonna go closer and farther away anyway like going over a speed bump at an angle one arm could move as much as 4 inches so its still possible fo it to hit the rim

Agreed...that's the exact 'iffyness' left in the equation that made me chose to just go up to the 17s since I wanted to make sure I could get the widest wheel and the widest rubber possible under the fenders for performance.

Will these wheels work in any way?

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