WINDOW/LOCK FAILURE.

BK_CAULEY

it's built for speed not longevity, woman

Dec 26, 2006

0

10

49

Thomasville, ga

Mar 1, 2007

#1

• Mar 1, 2007

• #1

long story short i went to lunch rolled down my drivers side window and it wouldnt go back up. neither windows will work now and my power locks quit working i checked fuses all are good, any ideas?

 

goodfastncheap

Member

Dec 25, 2006

100

0

17

Bellevue, NE

Mar 1, 2007

#2

• Mar 1, 2007

• #2

I could be wrong but isn't there a circuit breaker for the power windows next to the starter solenoid? I didn't think that the door locks would be on this, too, but maybe they are. Check jrichker's wire diags. Or just check continuity on that breaker.

Dude, you paid 1500 for that blue coupe you were having trouble with the other day? That car looks pretty clean for that kind of money...

 

jrichker

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Dublin GA

Mar 1, 2007

#3

• Mar 1, 2007

• #3

goodfastncheap said:

I could be wrong but isn't there a circuit breaker for the power windows next to the starter solenoid? I didn't think that the door locks would be on this, too, but maybe they are. Check jrichker's wire diags. Or just check continuity on that breaker.

Dude, you paid 1500 for that blue coupe you were having trouble with the other day? That car looks pretty clean for that kind of money...

Click to expand...

He's right on targent. The circuit breaker is a small metal box mounted on the starter solenoid. It is for the power windows and power locks.

 

S

superhuaman

New Member

Nov 8, 2004

907

0

0

Harrisburg, PA

Mar 1, 2007

#4

• Mar 1, 2007

• #4

i knew it was for the door locks, didnt know it was for the windows though. also, it is for the power lumbar. if you dont have power lumbar, the wiring is still under the seats. maybe a coin went in the plug.

 

BK_CAULEY

it's built for speed not longevity, woman

Dec 26, 2006

0

10

49

Thomasville, ga

Mar 1, 2007

#5

• Mar 1, 2007

• #5

yep i only paid $1500 for it,(see my car domain in sig) it ran out of gas and wouldnt crank back up and the guy was all mad and i said give ya $1500 for it and he said run it. so a big headache and about $30 later its running smooth as could be. and i found the trouble when i let my window down in the drivethrough water got in the switch i just took it out and blew it out real good with the compressor and it works fine now. im guessing that was it but my locks still arent working im gonna check the diagram and that little breaker and see what i can come up with. i will keep yall posted if the locks still dont work.

 

jrichker

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Mar 10, 2000

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Dublin GA

Mar 1, 2007

#6

• Mar 1, 2007

• #6

See http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=688337 for some excellent photos of the starter solenoid wiring and the circuit breaker. It is on the aft side of the starter solenoid.

 

BK_CAULEY

it's built for speed not longevity, woman

Dec 26, 2006

0

10

49

Thomasville, ga

Mar 1, 2007

#7

• Mar 1, 2007

• #7

getting power

ok guys i checked for power and have it all the way up to the switch and leaving it. i cant touch my multi meter to the wires on the unlock switch depress the switch and i get 12.4 volts the wires leave the switch and go to the lock actuator(im guessing) so i guess the next step is to pull the panel and see if the actuatoer has power. and if it is getting power to it then what? whats the chance both actuators went out at the same time? and if the wires dont leave the switch and go to the actuator could someone please correct me on this. but im pretty sure they do?

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

33

129

Mar 1, 2007

#8

• Mar 1, 2007

• #8

Have you been doing anything near the top of the driver side kick panel? The wiring connectors for both items are located there.

 

BK_CAULEY

it's built for speed not longevity, woman

Dec 26, 2006

0

10

49

Thomasville, ga

Mar 2, 2007

#9

• Mar 2, 2007

• #9

here are the wires that are getting power, and have power leaving them when i depress the switch. the red wire goes to my driver side door lock actuator and the pink goes to the passenger aide and when i hit the switch they both as previously stated have power leaving them but door lock actuator is kicking on on either side. could they have both went bad at the same time?

 

Attachments

• switchng2.webp

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Busted07

I need my gorilla to be about an inch longer.

Nov 15, 2005

0

3

0

Mar 2, 2007

#10

• Mar 2, 2007

• #10

The car is junk... just another headache you dont need.. just hand me they keys, and ill take care of it for you.

 

BK_CAULEY

it's built for speed not longevity, woman

Dec 26, 2006

0

10

49

Thomasville, ga

Mar 2, 2007

#11

• Mar 2, 2007

• #11

sure

hand me $2500 and i will

 

Busted07

I need my gorilla to be about an inch longer.

Nov 15, 2005

0

3

0

Mar 2, 2007

#12

• Mar 2, 2007

• #12

BK_CAULEY said:

hand me $2500 and i will

Click to expand...

Man, inflation must be a mofo where youre at!

 

BK_CAULEY

it's built for speed not longevity, woman

Dec 26, 2006

0

10

49

Thomasville, ga

Mar 2, 2007

#13

• Mar 2, 2007

• #13

FarBeyondDriven said:

Man, inflation must be a mofo where youre at!

Click to expand...

supply and demand

 

glowstang93

20+ Year Stangneter

Feb 9, 2003

853

8

39

Illinois

Mar 2, 2007

#14

• Mar 2, 2007

• #14

Is there a reset on the relay, or is it just a pull and replace part? Probably a silly question, since I don't see a reset on it, but worth asking if it ever happens to me.

Thanks in advance.

 

S

superhuaman

New Member

Nov 8, 2004

907

0

0

Harrisburg, PA

Mar 2, 2007

#15

• Mar 2, 2007

• #15

glowstang93 said:

Is there a reset on the relay, or is it just a pull and replace part? Probably a silly question, since I don't see a reset on it, but worth asking if it ever happens to me.

Thanks in advance.

Click to expand...

its a circuit breaker, and no, there is no button. it is automatic reset. if it doesnt, it needs to be replaced.