Well since you did the rest yourself it probably wouldn't be too expensive to have one window done... i'm sure you considered that already though. Just out of curiosity how dark did you do it? I did 5% on the sides and 20% on the back. I liked how it came out but I'll 5% all around next time..
the shop i work at tints windows for the whole car it is right at 200 dollars after tax and everything but we tint it legal 35 on the fronts and 20 on the backs
and the trick to doing the back window is to get your peices or if using one peice all layed out on the window and powder your rear window with baby powder first then put the tint on there and then use a heat gun or blow drier to conformer the tint to the window and then put it on the inside window
When doing the back window.... put the window tint on the outside of the window a.k.a. exterior of the car to cut it... then take it to the inside and it "should" match up perfect. This is how the guy who did my tint did it... hope it helps
So I'm thinking about re-tinting my back window in the stang and possibly tinting all the windows in my Mazda 6 as well. I've never attempted it before and have a question.
When doing the rear windows, I've read that you need to lay the tint across the back glass and form it to the window, but with only baby powder on the window won't that be difficult to keep the film from sliding around while you are trying to mold it to the window? If you order pre-cut film from somewhere can this step be skipped?
use soap and water to put the tint on the outside of the car, then use a squeegee <- (I fugged up the spelling) to get all the water out from under it, at the same time you need to use a heat gun to shrink it to the curve, don't expect to get it right on your first, or second try. cut it to the pattern of the window, then peel the backing off and put it on the inside, again with soap and water. good luck
I dont know where the baby powder thing came from, but that is NOT the correct way to do it disregard that.
dont just use any soap, u want baby "tear less" soap, it doesnt leave "water waves" under the tint, and for the back window, just keep pushing the bubbles out and they will stay out, theres no need for a heat gun. when u push a bubble out and it come back it means theres still water getting under there.....as long as u constantly keep pushing the bubbles out they will eventualy stay out....this is what i did.
I'm still confused about the back window measuring part. So you use soapy water to put the tint on the outside of the back window, then push all the bubbles out (with or without a heat gun), then you trim the tint. Then you remove the tint from the outside, and install it using soapy water on the inside of the back window, and push all the air bubbles again? I don't get it...if the soapy water is gonna make it stick permanently, how am I gonna remove it after I've measured the back window?
And this baby soap...it's just baby hand soap or what? I mix that with water at what percentage water to soap?
ok theres a clear side of plastic on the tint that u peal off to get to the sticky side right.....when u put the tint on the out side of the window to trim it to the right size, make sure the clear side of the tint is on the top.......this way when u trim the tint and transfer it to the other side(the inside) and take the clear plastic off, the sticky side is to the window........after u trim the tint u need two ppl and u take the clear side off the tint and spray the window and the sticky side of the tint(after removing the clear plastic) then u place the actual tint on the window where u want it.......after the tint is on the window all the soapy water u sprayed on it should be between the tint and the window......now spray the out side of the tint as well(this keep it from scratching) and u start in the middle and wipe all the bubbles/water out from the tint................now since u use soapy water so the tint doesnt stick right away it will take time for all the water to dry up.....as the water drys up the tint will stick better and better but as long as the tint is still damp, bubble will apear along the edge, just keep pushing them out and eventualy they will stay out. if u have defrosters make sure to cut along the tint at least every 4in other wise when u ture the defrosters on, ur entire back window will become a bubble....................the ratio for the "tearless baby shampoo" to water is in the instruction but i just put a few drops pure spray bottle............need anymore help let me know.
Best advice I can give is to have a lot of patience and use a heat gun to help the tint confrom to the curve of the window. I did my coupe in 2000 and it hasnt pealed or bubbled at all.
It also helps to take the back decklid carpet out, it will give you a little more space to work around in there (if yours is a coupe)
Man, I'll just take mine to a local shop that does a damn good job... 150 all around... don't matter how dark i want it... it's kind of funny, they have a sign right where you walk in the shop that reads "Auto tinting is illegal in the state of PA"... i just thinks it's funny because it's basically their whole business! haha but it's only illegal on cars '98 and newer i've heard.. so i'm safe!