Windshield Installation Cost

I'd say that's a high. My local Mustang restoration shop installed a new windshield for about $200, and it doesn't leak.

However, the trim was not on correctly when I got it back. I had to take it all off and found that several of the posts for the clips were riveted off target.

If the shop had done all of the things that I ended up doing -- taking off the misplaced posts and replacing them with tiny screws (be sure to seal those holes), finessing or replacing some of the trim to get a better fit, driving to the beer store -- I'm sure it would have taken another hour or two and added $100-150 at their rates.

If I recall correctly, the sealer does need time to cure. If so, I can see where the day and a half comes from, but $650 seems like a quote for a bit more work than it seems like you are seeking.

+1 on tips for not damaging the paint when working with the clips

I paid a window place 200 for windshield and rear window installs and they both leaked b/c they hadn't done installs on older vehicles that require sealant.

I removed the trim myself and using the correct 3M sealant sealed both. Pain in the ass.

If the window place won't gurantee no leaks and you don't want to fool with it yourself, pay the money and been done.

Good luck...

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Yes, they can. But, it can be a real pain to do depending on how close the gasket is to the stud you are trying to put a clip on. THe bottom ones are especially hard.
Sometimes all indications are that the glass is leaking, when in fact it's not. It's WAY easier if it's just the glass leaking. If it isn't, it can be an adventure to fnd it. As was mentioned, if any studs were missing, they can be replaced with the 65 Mustang clips & screws, but you have to put sealer (RightStuff RTV) in the hole, on the threads, on the back of the clip and screw them down before it sets up or they WILL leak.
Sometimes the seam sealer in the drip rail gets old and cracked and water gets in through the drip rail seam. ANother place is the corner of the cowl where the water runs down the windshild piller, under the corner of the fender and hits the back corner of the cowl and runs in where the three pieces of metel come together.
You can pull the seats, and get a pen light and have someone dribble water in one spot at a time while you look for water intrusion. Start across the botom and slowly work up the pillers & he drip rail. Seal as needed.
If you tear the gasket prying it up to shove the clip in, you're done. Order a new gasket.
ALso, the quote is pretty high. $200-$300 would be reasonable. I know we can R&R in 2-4 hrs. Depends on how gooped up the moulding is, need to clean the glass channel and I run a scotchbright pad around the channel so the adhesive sticks good. THere are tons of threads on how to do the glass, you may want to search for that just to see whats involved so you can relate to what the shop has to do step by step to put the glass in.

I don't know, but 650 bucks seems way too high. I could see 300 at the most.

Bullitt said:

Barnstang - thanks for the input. I've read many of the threads on how to do the job, but I'm not patient when it comes to this kind of thing (I'd rather bolt an engine together any day!). I know one spot for sure is the glass and I'm fairly certain the upper corners leak because I've got the classic water dripping from the top of the kick panel problem...

Going to go get some more quotes. I'll pay $200 to $300 to save myself the trouble.

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I'm not exactly patient either, but I did install the windshield in my 77 Comet about a month ago. Took about an hour to work the gasket into the frame and windsheild. And zero leaks, even before I used clear silicone sealer for insurance. The whole job (removal, frame prep and installation) took about 4 hours. It would have been far more expensive had I brought it to a glass company and had them do all I did in frame prep (which most won't do anyway)

i would not take it to just any glass shop unless they have experience doing classic installs and references you can check. I had the same thing done by a shop that was recommended for late model work and didn't even research it. I took a 68 coupe in for new seals front and back. They told me it is possible the glass would break taking it out, but insurance would cover it. the next day they called and said the edge of the glass was warped and I would need a new windshield. I told them to knock it off the stand and have at it because now I an going to have to buy a windshield. So $650 later out of pocket I had a new windshield and gaskets front and back. Next day rain shower and it leaked worse than when I took it in. Went back and they gave me some BS about it not having time for it to set up right. The next day I went back and they had sealed it alright. They slathered clear silicone all the way aroung my chrome trim and covered the mounting screws. Needless to say I was beyond livid. To correct the silicone problem they took a screwdriver and just scraped it all off and bent up my trim in the process. Long afterward I found out that doing these classics is usually quite different than doing late models and I won't ever take one back except to a classic shop.

A painful $650 lesson learned.

P.S.
My dad said he could have done the clear silicone and made it look much better and would have only charged me $10.

Just my 2 cents