windshild gasket help

big block 460

New Member
Mar 12, 2004
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i need to replace the windshild gasket and the red window gasket also is it hard to do everything was fine till i removed it to paint now i have a leak in both the gasket is cheep don't know how to do it . any help ???
 
I can't tell you how to replace your windshield gasket, but I can tell you to make sure to use a FORD gasket.

I had a glass shop replace my windshield and they used a repo gasket. It leaked so I took it back and they pulled the windshield and replaced the gasket with another repo gasket - leaked again. Finally I ordered a Ford gasket and it's been good ever since.

Tim
 
Installing windshield & gasket is not hard. It is doing it without getting thins messy that takes effort. I have done many of these with success. I have also helped several people do it themselves (even a couple of SN'ers).
Here is a copy of the e-mail I sent to a few of these people to help them, there are also some very high tech drawings :D :

You will need: a NEW winshield gasket (seal), the butyl based sealer (sealant), 3M windshield weld, 1/4" clotheline long enough to wrap around the windshield and have about 6-8 inches extra at each end .

  • Run a small bead of butyl sealant into the very bottom of the inside channel (the channel the glass goes into) of the rubber seal.
  • Put the gasket onto the windshield. Try make sure it is centered as best you can
  • Most people will tell you to put sealant on the metal lip of the windshield opening, if you do this when you put the windshield in place for the following step you get sealant all over the side of the seal that will be visible inside the car. So, to prevent this put the clothesline into the channel. You want it to wrap all around the glass with the 6-8 inches of each end meeting and hanging from the bottom center of the window. Now put sealant on the inside upper lip of the seal (the part that will eventually come in contact with the metal lip of the opening). Put the sealant about midway down the channel. Try not to get any on the clothesline
  • Lay the windshield into the opening with the 2 hanging ends laid into the car on the dash. Center the windshield into the opening. Have a helper press on the windshield to hold it in place with one hand and use the other hand to press inward on the windshield in the next step.
  • From inside the car start with one end of the clothesline and pull inward and toward the center of the windshield a few inches in one direction, then move to the other end of the clothesline and go a few inches in that direction. Alternate directions and go a few inches each time. Each time you pull in the clothesline make sure your helper pushes in on the window right at that area. This will pull the bottom lip of the seal into the car.
  • Let the car sit for a day or 2. Then, take a cup of water and start at the bottom drivers side and pour the water on the glass above the seal going (slowly) from drivers side to passenger side looking for leaks. When you find a leak use a SMALL amount of window weld in that area. Next do the same up both sides of the windshield (from bottom to top). Lastly, do the top in the same way you did the bottom. Make sure you do not get the window weld in the clips for the trim.
glip.jpg

linwrap.jpg

ovrvw.jpg
 
thanks it look great to me that is what everyone is telling me and to alos put some sealent under the gasket on the windshild side,, by raiseing up the gasket and putting some there and letting it squeez out and trim it later is that right
 
I wouldn't do that. The butyl sealant really never dries. It stays gooey and flexible. It is a pain to clean off the gasket and/or glass. If you do it the way I describe above and make sure the bead of sealant you run is constant (no gaps), you should have any leaks. I usually only wind up with 1 or 2 small leaks (drips) at the most. That is where the 3M stuff comes in.
 
Gp, I recently took the front and back glass out of my fastback for paint Niether window had ever been out, and one of the things that I thought was odd was the fact that there was no sealer of any kind between the glass and the rubber. There was some yellow gooey stuff (looked like the same wax that seals a toilet to the floor/drain) on the outside lip. This car did not leak, so I assume this is normal procedure, right? Although the car isn't even painted yet, I'm trying to figure these things out before I really need to, since I'm more than a little hesitant to call the local mobile glass guy that puts windows in late models all day, and will likely treat my virgin, unscratched (and spendy) original glass with all the care that he treats Subaru parts.
 
zookeeper said:
Gp, I recently took the front and back glass out of my fastback for paint Niether window had ever been out, and one of the things that I thought was odd was the fact that there was no sealer of any kind between the glass and the rubber. There was some yellow gooey stuff (looked like the same wax that seals a toilet to the floor/drain) on the outside lip. This car did not leak, so I assume this is normal procedure, right? Although the car isn't even painted yet, I'm trying to figure these things out before I really need to, since I'm more than a little hesitant to call the local mobile glass guy that puts windows in late models all day, and will likely treat my virgin, unscratched (and spendy) original glass with all the care that he treats Subaru parts.

The yellow stuff may have just been a different color of sealant/bedding compound. Use small, continuous beads. Too many people think the "more is better" theory applies. Since this stuff is THICK it is easy to get air pockets/holes if you use too much. A thin amount will be able to spread within the area of the gasket.

If you decide to have someone do it, check them out. A lot of the "installers" have no clue how to do anything but late models. One of my neighbors friend went through 3 installers in less than a year because each time they leaked. What these installers did was use the late model sealant (adhesive) which dries hard. While that is fine for a rigid late model, it just tears up gaskets on our flexible early cars.