Winterize My 67 Stang

Pbum5 · Nov 11, 2004

Ok, I need some tips on the best way to winterize my 67 Fastback. It has been stored in a California Garage for the last 12 years. I just had it shipped to me in Minnesota where it will spend this winter in an Un-heated garage. So just looking for some tips.
I know I need to put more air in the tires. I filled up the tank with Non-Oxygenated premium and added some Sea Foam to the tank. I plan on pulling the battery out and keeping it inside. I am putting some NoRosion in the radiator. I hear different things about pouring a light Oil or AT fluid in the carb to lube the top half of the motor. Any insight to this?
Thanks!

Ozsum2 · Nov 11, 2004

I wouldn't do all that. I'd take out the battery like you said. Change the oil, top off the gas tank and add some fuel stabilizer. Maybe put it up on blocks but that's about it. Oh yea, put some mouse poison in the car somewhere.

It would be better if you could start it once a month or so.

Edbert · Nov 11, 2004

Put it up on blocks and do nothing else. You just need to start it every week, cycle it through the gears and let it idle for a few minutes in each gear.Blip the throttle a few times, run the AC, get it up to operating temperature (with the garage door open and the exhaust pointing out!).

That keeps everything lubricated enough, that a few months of not running around wont hurt it. Keeping it out of the road-salt is the biggest thing.

Ozsum2 · Nov 11, 2004

We don't know what your plans are. If you plan on running it in the shed, closing the door and walking away for months at a time, you may need more than blocks. If there is power handy, you could but a hot rod in there. A stick used in sailboats that are stored to keep humidity out. You could put a trickle charger on and leave the batt in. Put a temperary tank heater on so that you could plug it in to keep the coolant flowing and keep moisture out of the engine. Depends on what your plans are.

Edbert · Nov 11, 2004

yeah, how cold will it get in storage? Cold enough for fuel/ATF/DOT3 to freeze?

What does a Texan know about winter storage anyhow...LOL!

Ozsum2 · Nov 11, 2004

Edbert said:
yeah, how cold will it get in storage? Cold enough for fuel/ATF/DOT3 to freeze?

What does a Texan know about winter storage anyhow...LOL!

When we were out in the bush of Alaska, some folks would have there rides stored, outside, then fly into Anchorage for the Christman break and just about need an ice pick to get in their cars. Some needed more than than.

Ferf · Nov 11, 2004

Take some empty tuna fish cans and put moth balls in them. Then place the cans throughout the car. Also put a few moth balls inside your exhaust tips. This will keep the mice away.

later,

Chris

Max Power · Nov 11, 2004

Don't worry about hauling the battery inside. Just disconnect the ground and it will probably stay fully charged. Batteries discharge very slowly in the cold.

I really don't do anything to mine special. Just put some Stabil in the fuel and try to start it on days when it gets near 30f. Other than that, it sits cold and I have never had a problem.

The fluids pretty much don't freeze in MN as the air temp rarely gets below -20f.

Alaska is a little different.

Ozsum2 · Nov 11, 2004

Max Power said:
Don't worry about hauling the battery inside. Just disconnect the ground and it will probably stay fully charged. Batteries discharge very slowly in the cold.

I really don't do anything to mine special. Just put some Stabil in the fuel and try to start it on days when it gets near 30f. Other than that, it sits cold and I have never had a problem.

The fluids pretty much don't freeze in MN as the air temp rarely gets below -20f.

Alaska is a little different.

Hey Max. I always heard on those commercials that batteries loose like 1/2 of there cranking power when cold, depending on just how cold it is. I know my flashlight batteries go dead or loose when stored in the car when cold. And I saw in Jc Whitney's, that some sort of Battery blanket that kept the battery warm for quicker starts. Is it all just marketing hipe?

Pbum5 · Nov 11, 2004

Thanks for the suggestions. I agree that starting it up every month to get the juices flowing would be ideal. But I don’t think it’s a viable option in my case.
I think Starting my motor in Subzero temperature would do more damage than good for it. So I want to do all I can to preserve it so it can start easily in the spring.

Pbum5 · Nov 11, 2004

Very Cold. Minnesota winters can be tough..

Hack · Nov 11, 2004

Ozsum2 said:
Hey Max. I always heard on those commercials that batteries loose like 1/2 of there cranking power when cold, depending on just how cold it is. I know my flashlight batteries go dead or loose when stored in the car when cold. And I saw in Jc Whitney's, that some sort of Battery blanket that kept the battery warm for quicker starts. Is it all just marketing hipe?

A chemical battery can't produce as much power when it's cold. However, storing a battery in the cold is fine. There's a good bit of hype in the blanket, though. Just keep a battery charged and clean, and it will last quite a while.

I do the same as Max, start my car once a month or so on 30 degree days. I often don't start it between late December and early February, so close to two months - if it's really cold during that time. When I start it, I let it run for at least 1/2 hour. I believe it's hard on the car to be started more often and not thoroughly warmed up. Cold start up is the worst.

Max Power · Nov 11, 2004

Oz, Hack has it right.

While cranking power goes down in the cold and engine resistence goes up exponentially, we are talking storage here, not use. Batteries discharge much quicker in the heat. There is no need to heat up a battery until you use it.

I also agree on running it a long time when you start it. Wait for the condensation in the pipes to burn off, at least.

VictorII · Nov 12, 2004

Pbum5 said:
Ok, I need some tips on the best way to winterize my 67 Fastback. It has been stored in a California Garage for the last 12 years. I just had it shipped to me in Minnesota where it will spend this winter in an Un-heated garage. So just looking for some tips.
I know I need to put more air in the tires. I filled up the tank with Non-Oxygenated premium and added some Sea Foam to the tank. I plan on pulling the battery out and keeping it inside. I am putting some NoRosion in the radiator. I hear different things about pouring a light Oil or AT fluid in the carb to lube the top half of the motor. Any insight to this?
Thanks!

Outside of putting it up on blocks to avoid square tires, I think you have it covered except for just throwing the battery on a charger every month or so overnight; no need to remove it. It you have a nice day and the salt is gone due to a previous day's rain or whatever, and the roads are dry, then drive it to get the condensation out of the exhaust and out of the oil. The main thing is to get the fluids circulating, the brakes stopping, the heater heating and the gears shifting. If not having the engine warm kinda freaks you out you can get one of those engine warmers from JC Whitney; they have several styles. Changing over to synthetics in the engine and trans will also get the oils flowing better. Leave the rear end alone. When I lived back in that area I liked to get the car back in before the black ice started up. It was sad seeing a classic car, no matter what make, off the road or T-boned.

Kman · Nov 12, 2004

Here is what I have done for short term storing over the last 18 years to my cars and have never had a problem. Fill the fuel tank and add stabilizer. Check you antifreeze's freeze range, don't assume is OK, especially where you live. If it has not been changed in a while, change it. I do remove my battery and store it in my basement and I do trickle charge it every month or so. When you pay $140 for a repro battery, it just seems like the correct thing to do and I did get 7 years out of my last one. Change the oil and filter and immediately put the car away to keep the oil as fresh and contaminent free as possible. For the interior, I clean it throughly, add a three large marine type dessicant bags to help control the moisture and pop a few bars of irish spring soap under the seats - supposedly helps with the mouse problem, Never use moth balls as the smell will just get absorbed and last forever in the interior. Also leave the sun visors in the down position as this is a favorite place for a mouse to do some damage. I also add 4 to 6 lbs of air to the tires and as I only store the car for approximately 4 months, I have never put it up on blocks. I then give the car a final dust off with the car duster, put on its car cover and say adios untill April, as I do not ever start it up during the winter.

Pbum5 · Nov 12, 2004

Thank you all for the advice.. Anyone have anything else to add?

68_stanger · Nov 12, 2004

As a boat mechanic in Northern Michigan I put my fair share of stuff into storage, I would put fuel stablizer into the tank and run it for a good bit afterwards as to get it up into the carb, a large amount of fuel won't go bad over the winter, smaller amounts like in the carb will and can gum it up. Top off the gas tank so that condensation cannot collect and cause the tank to rust. Putting a fogging oil, (or atf) down the carb for a lube is up to you, we do it on all the stuff we take care of as its never started all winter and it leaves a good coat of oil on everything for a troublefree startup in the spring, but I also know many people who don't, but for the price its cheap peace of mind. Check the antifreeze make sure its good for subzero temps, check/change the other fluids as well or as neccassary. I don't know if jacking it up is of any great benifit, I just let my 2 cars sit. Hope this helps.

One more thing is so long as the battery is fully charged when parked I'd just unhook one side and leave it in the car. You can babysit the battery if you choose but from what I've seen If its charge and has no drain on it, it'll be fine.

Pbum5 · Nov 12, 2004

68_stanger said:
As a boat mechanic in Northern Michigan I put my fair share of stuff into storage, I would put fuel stablizer into the tank and run it for a good bit afterwards as to get it up into the carb, a large amount of fuel won't go bad over the winter, smaller amounts like in the carb will and can gum it up. Top off the gas tank so that condensation cannot collect and cause the tank to rust. Putting a fogging oil, (or atf) down the carb for a lube is up to you, we do it on all the stuff we take care of as its never started all winter and it leaves a good coat of oil on everything for a troublefree startup in the spring, but I also know many people who don't, but for the price its cheap peace of mind.

thanks for tip. Should I drain all the fuel out of the fuel bowls. After i shut it off should I pump the throttle until the fuel bowls are empty (Holley 650 double pumper) or is it better to have some fuel in there so the seals don't crack?

How much atf sould I pour in there?

68_stanger · Nov 12, 2004

I leave fuel in the carb as most boats have no way to shut it off, I've never had a problem, In order to fog a motor there is no "set" amount of oil to use but you'll hold the idle to about 1800 to 2500rpm and slowly (I mean slowly especially if you use atf vs fogging oil) dump the fluid in the 2 primary barrels until it starts to smoke, give it a couple revs and shut it off, after all you don't wanna burn all the oil outof there do ya? Come spring it'll smoke til it all gets burned out of there, usually takes a few minutes.

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