i forgot about the battery.... i actually bring mine in the house and put it on a shelf in the basement, leaving it in the cold will actually kill it too.
i never got the point of changing the oil in the fall, to me its better to let the old oil sit and let as much as possible make its way back to the pan then i change it in the spring.
i never got the point of changing the oil in the fall, to me its better to let the old oil sit and let as much as possible make its way back to the pan then i change it in the spring.
Change the oil again. Old oil contains acids that will etch the metals inside. However, i prefer to put fresh oil in before starting it as well. Squirt a little oil inside each spark plug hold and turn the engine over by hand or prime the fuel pump with a drill. A little excessive i know but i have let my cars sit for 1 year+ at times. Right now my 5.0 has been sitting for 2.5 years
When i store my cars i fill the tank, add fuel stabilizer, put steel wool in the tailpipes and then a sock over the ends, either take the wheels off and put the car on blocks with the suspension LOADED or overfill the tires to 50-60PSI to make them hard as a rock.
I also put sticky mouse traps on the inside of all 4 wheels to keep mice from climbing up. Mothballs in the engine bay will prevent mice from climbing up there as well.
Take the battery out and store it indoors up off the floor.
If you have a car cover put it on and crack the windows an inch. If you are leaving it outdoors, put the HVAC controls to defrost so air may circulate in the car as best it can.
Also, they sell a product that absorbs moisture. It's called "DampRid" It's mostly found in the kitchen and bath isle. It's a sort of "salt" that draws in water. Fill a few cups up of this stuff and put them inside the car and regularly check them. Winter is usually dry but you might get a rainy fall or spring day before you open it that might put some humidity in the car.
When i store my cars i fill the tank, add fuel stabilizer, put steel wool in the tailpipes and then a sock over the ends, either take the wheels off and put the car on blocks with the suspension LOADED or overfill the tires to 50-60PSI to make them hard as a rock.
I also put sticky mouse traps on the inside of all 4 wheels to keep mice from climbing up. Mothballs in the engine bay will prevent mice from climbing up there as well.
Take the battery out and store it indoors up off the floor.
If you have a car cover put it on and crack the windows an inch. If you are leaving it outdoors, put the HVAC controls to defrost so air may circulate in the car as best it can.
Also, they sell a product that absorbs moisture. It's called "DampRid" It's mostly found in the kitchen and bath isle. It's a sort of "salt" that draws in water. Fill a few cups up of this stuff and put them inside the car and regularly check them. Winter is usually dry but you might get a rainy fall or spring day before you open it that might put some humidity in the car.
and fresh oil doesn't have those acids? theres still some old oil in there when you change it so i say i still say it does next to nothing, condensation will still form and mix with the oil. hell my buddy just got a 62 pontiac from his grandpa that sat in a barn for 10 years and he never even changed the oil before starting it. i see putting fresh oil in just a waste of fresh oil if your changing it in the spring. my dad has stored cars for the winter for over 30 years and never once changed the oil in the fall some of these motors even had 300 000+ km's on them
88_GT_5_oh said:
Well you want to do the change before you put it away, not right as you do it. That way the new oil has a day or so to circulate to "flush" the engine. Then it will all drain down to the pan.
My whole point was to not let the parts sit coated in old oil all winter. Maybe it's pointless, who knows. It's only a $12 oil change.