Electrical Wiring Help - Alternator and Battery

I am in need of some help with wiring my alternator - starter - battery in my 65 Mustang. I am doing a full restomod (car has been gutted and is being completely built back up) and can't seam to get a concise answer on the best way to wire my 140a 1-wire alternator with a PMGR Starter and my battery located in the trunk. I started with a painless 22-Circ wiring kit and have done some rework to fit all the new items (Vintage Air, Power Windows/Locks, iKey Remote/Push button start, Derale Fan Controller, 535T Window Control, upgraded stereo, dakota digital gauges, Detroit speed wiper kit, etc). My challenge is the best way to wire the alternator and starter since my battery has been relocated to the trunk.

I have looked at many posts about using a starter solenoid in the trunk and was hoping to avoid that as I don't think I need to keep it with the new starter, BUT then I am not sure where to wire the ignition switch to (the ign switch will go thru the neutral safety switch to either a starter solenoid or ?

I was going to run it like this;

1. 6 Ga from alternator to starter & 16 Ga wire to fuse block
2. 2 Ga from starter to dist block under dash (dist block connected to Vintage Air (30a), Maxi Fuse, Power Windows (30a), Derale Fan Controller, Window Control Module, etc)
3. 6 Ga from dist block to battery (in trunk)

I am not sure if these wire sizes are OK and confused as to where to connect the ignition switch to if I omit the starter solenoid.

Here is where I am at with the wiring diagram (this shows a battery cable to the starter solenoid which would be omitted).



Thanks !

@bluovl Thanks! I did a ton of research and spoke to a ton of techs. Here is what I am doing;

The painless kit was fine, no issues. But I am doing a ton of rerouting so I have cut a ton of it up because I wanted all of the wiring hidden in the engine compartment and I have all of this going in ;

• Powered Door Locks
• Powered Windows with Auto Rollup Module
• Powered Trunk
• Derale Fan Controller
• iKey push button start with remote start and unlock
• In Tank Fuel Pump

Ran a 0G from the battery to a dist block - to feed a bunch of other stuff (alot going in this car)


From the stud that has the 0G from the battery, i ran another 0G to a stud in the firewall where I connected the power to the main fuse block and to the midi fuse. I then ran 4G on the engine side to the one wire alternator and another 0G down to the starter. I aligned the location of the fire wall stud so it was behind the motor and would allow the 4G to the alternate to be almost straight and hidden, it was wrapped in high temp wire loom.

No, the suspension is not stock, it was all changed out to MII from TCI in the front and a 4Link in the rear with a new 9" rear end.

((the tubing below was the rerouting of the brake and fuel lines to clean up the engine compartment))



Hope this helps!