Wish me luck... fire in the hole

blksn955.o · Nov 24, 2004

Well I wanted to start it up tonight but it looks like it is alittle too late to try and break in the motor tonight. I mean 2,000rpms for 10-20min. at midnight might piss off some people not that I dont do that anyway . Should be running by 10:00AM wed.

Hope the tweecer goes well, need to pull the cpu and re-do my j3 port as I did not clean it also need to make sure I load the new software wiz. right. Then its DL my tweeced T4M0 and J4J1 files along with my A9l (for the KAM trick) and fire it up and start datalogging at idle.

So far I have had big issues with a few things, the 4 12mm bolts on my DS will not come loose (why the datalogs will be at idle, or I may wait until I can get it to drive), and I wanted to put on my stock h-pipe well after fighting that damn heavy thing I just re-installed my O/R H and will have to get some new cats installed on it since I have to pass smog before too long as my plates are due (back in May )

I am so ready to start this sucker, wish me luck
Greg

tmoss · Nov 24, 2004

Good luck!, take your time and do it right.

wytstang · Nov 24, 2004

Double check everything and good luck I hope all goes well.

blksn955.o · Nov 24, 2004

been raining all morning here, If it breaks for a few I am going to go work on it. Yes, Tmoss I am taking my time prob. the best thing to do after all it is winter now whats the rush.

Thanks guys.
Greg

blksn955.o · Nov 24, 2004

well got the windows tweecer driver installed and wrote my base tunes on the tweecer. However, the fuel pump is not turning on. Other than the ccrm anyone know were the fuses for the ign.fuel pump are? The motor turns but will not fire. Getting cold and the snow sucks, so I have to quit for now.

Mattys5Oh · Nov 24, 2004

blksn955.o said:
well got the windows tweecer driver installed and wrote my base tunes on the tweecer. However, the fuel pump is not turning on. Other than the ccrm anyone know were the fuses for the ign.fuel pump are? The motor turns but will not fire. Getting cold and the snow sucks, so I have to quit for now.

Stupid question, but did you check the FP relay?

Matt

blksn955.o · Nov 25, 2004

Well the relay is in the ccrm and that has 3k miles on it as I replaced the stock one (that was good). I had this same issue with the fuel pump last time I did a head swap. I ended up taking it to a shop as it was my DD at that point, the shop did not give me a answer as to why/what they did.

Can a fuel system get vapor locked when you add a mech. fuel press. guage and line?

tmoss · Nov 25, 2004

Not likely vapor lock. I had a problem like this and my problem turned out to be a loose spade connection on the pump. I discovered it when I went to replace the stocker with a 156lph unit since I thought the original pump was bad. You need to trace power to be sure your getting power to the relay coil first and then back through the wire to the pump itself. Remember there is the inertia switch in that line too.

Mattys5Oh · Nov 25, 2004

blksn955.o said:
Well the relay is in the ccrm and that has 3k miles on it as I replaced the stock one (that was good). I had this same issue with the fuel pump last time I did a head swap. I ended up taking it to a shop as it was my DD at that point, the shop did not give me a answer as to why/what they did.

Can a fuel system get vapor locked when you add a mech. fuel press. guage and line?

Aaahhhhh....Too advanced for me! lol

blksn955.o · Nov 25, 2004

tmoss said:
Not likely vapor lock. I had a problem like this and my problem turned out to be a loose spade connection on the pump. I discovered it when I went to replace the stocker with a 156lph unit since I thought the original pump was bad. You need to trace power to be sure your getting power to the relay coil first and then back through the wire to the pump itself. Remember there is the inertia switch in that line too.

Last time this happened I checked the pump as I had just installed a 190 walbro. That pump has about 3k on it too. I am going to check fuses, grounds again, change the pos. batt. terminal as its kinda loose after looking at it, make sure fuel rail is tight, and lastly do the trace. The 94-95's relay is built into the ccrm and it also controles many other functions I guess I can trace that pin on the box as there are about 20ish pins on the ccrm. Am I thinking right on that I can trace the ccrm fuel pump relay?

Thanks guys,

Happy turkey day

tmoss · Nov 25, 2004

My schematrics don't give the pin number but show the CCRM wire as Dark Green with a Yeelow stripe feeding inertia switch and the pump.

If you don't have schematics that are easy to use, PM with with an email address and I'll send em to you....

Happy Thanksgiving to u too......

mytight95 · Nov 25, 2004

make sure the inertia switch on that thing is not popped out.....located on the drivers side, on the inside lining of the trunk, back side of the headlight

jason

Mattys5Oh · Nov 27, 2004

TTT Any updates?

67stang390 · Nov 28, 2004

Not to change the subject, but what is the A9L KAM trick? Good luck with everything.

blksn955.o · Nov 28, 2004

No updates yet as I have been "away" for family stuff and work. I will be off Mon. night and hope to work on it then. Thanks for the replies guys.

The KAM trick with the tweecer is that you load a void/in-valid program file or a program file that is not supported by the family of ecu that you are running, when you switch to this "wrong" file on the R/T knob the ecu resets as it sets off an internal error or something and the KAM resets. This is good as you dont have to undo your batt. and can do it inside the car. Us cbaza family users can use the A9L program file as it is not a valid file. There is a large thread on the http://tweecer.oplnk.net forums I think it was started by blackvert from here.

blksn955.o · Nov 30, 2004

Well its been raining like a son of a gun here for what seems like 4-5 days straight.

I GOT IT FIRED UP AND RUNNING

I replaced the pos(+) batt. cable clamp, and noticed the ecu was alittle loose on the 10mm bolt and tightend it. The pump came on and it fired right up. I set the FP to 39 with the vac. off. I then let it run for a few min. at 2,000rpms (about 5-6) and then realized I should realy get it timed in to 10*. Well put the light on it and I was way off, and when I got close to 10* it would just die, I looked at the cap and I was 180* off with the harm. ball. at 10*. I pulled the dizzy and restabed it and I had the same problem again. I think I just kept putting it in on the wrong stroke. I am going to bring it up to comp. on #1 with the plug out and redo it the correct way, not the half arsed,way I was trying to do it in the rain. The reason it is off is that I had to pull the dizzy to prime it and also had to turn the motor over to adj. the rockers on install. I plan on running it some more at 2,000 rpms to get a good seat but I want to make sure I have the dizzy in right before that. Plus molly rings from what I have heard seat quick with the right cyl. prep.

The batt. also just up and died, dont know if the rain had something to do with this or what, but I lost everything at once, just pop no juice, all the fuses are ok and its a brand new batt. so I have some more things to look at like maybe a ground issue but I had double checked all those and the amp guage was fine when the car was running.

Going to wait until the rain dies down (if it would stop raining on my days off that would be great ) to go out there and work on it somemore. I just need to get my DS fully installed and I am going to try to put some miles on it before I take to get my smog test as I have exp. plates now and that will make me just alittle illegal.

But it started and ran preaty well even for being way out of time. It idled on its own and did not have any misses.

Thanks for the help guys.

nmcgrawj · Nov 30, 2004

Thats great to hear, keep us updated!

wytstang · Nov 30, 2004

congrats keep us updated.

blksn955.o · Dec 3, 2004

Well re-installed the Dizzy correct and set the * to 10*, ran the motor at 1,800-2,000rpms for 20-25min. and topped off and burped the coolant also. I had to move the block to chassis ground as the stock location had come loose 2x in 15min on its own.

Now just to get some idle datalogs to get my idle set and all that jazz. Then its on to driving and loging to get my high/low slopes, K's,L's, etc. all set.

Runs great so far, just a few exh. leaks but they are realy small.

nmcgrawj · Dec 3, 2004

Thats good to hear man.

This may be a dumb question, but to get it to run at 2000 rpm's do you sit there and hold it or do you adjust the TB or something?

Wish me luck... fire in the hole

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