Wobble in front tires- steering rack??

[Nicoleb3x3]

I have vibration/wobble feeling on the highway going 72 mph
it seems to get worse then better then worse again, on different roads, accelerating...but it doesn't seem too consistant. but I pretty much feel some verison of it at any speed over 72

facts I know:
1. not the tires or rims, I've been through a few rotations and new tires with exactly the same sympotoms.
2. not alignment- I've had a few alignments, again always had the same issues
3. I've had this problem for a few years- I don't go on the highway often enough so it's gone ignored for a while -but I'm sick of it now.
4. with my car on a lift, you can put your hands at 3 and 9, and rock the tire back and forth and feel play in the steering- you can see the wobble from 4 feet away! passenger side is much worse than the driver's side if that matters.
5. no noticable movement in the opposite direction- holding 12 and 6 and rocking in the other direction -so this rules out wheel bearings?
6. when watching the play in the steering, it allows the movement/wobble/play without moving the steering wheel. the loosenes/play appears to be where the tierod connects to the rack in the accordion style cover thing.
7. my tie rods are new- no change in the problem and I've had an alignment since changing them.
8. I suspect the rack itself is the culprit- it does have a little seeping fluid- but no drips. and it's a 4 banger rack on a 93 5.0 coverted car with 16" rims it was never designed for. -BUT IS THIS WHAT CAUSES MY SHAKE ON THE HIGHWAY?
9. The only other thing I could think of is the ball joint- but I really don't want to change those rigth now- I plan to convert spindles/coilover kit/ with MM lower control arsm and cannot be done until next year when I convert to 5 lug.

sorry for all the detail- but thought I'd spell it all out to eliminate the typical recommendations like tires/alignment/tierods etc

thanks ahead of time for any help

 

[Roland69]

inner Tie rods...maby

 

[Roland69]

and I would way rather do ball joints than tie rods...yes it is a little more work but you don't need an alignment

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

if I do the rack, they come with inner tie rods anyway don't they? -cause it does already seep- and is the 4 banger rack

as for the ball joints- the issue is I need to change all the related parts- so ball joints will be a waste of money entirely- where at least the rack I need to chanage anyway -BUT I need to fix the problem no matter what it is before my trip to woodward in August

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

how's this steering rack?

http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=A1C&MfrPartNumber=22207&PartType=252&PTSet=A

 

[Roland69]

you might find a rack with inners but usually they are just the rack and you but the inner tie rods seperate. There is a special inner tie rod tool that most shops have and may let you borrow.

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

it shows the inner's on there???? or am I being dumb?

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

commong stangnet! where's the knowlege today? I need more feedback here!

ps. how hard to change the rack?

 

[HISSIN50]

Rack swap isnt bad.

FWIW, you did your diagnostics nicely. I'm impressed.

When you noted no play at 12 and 6 o'clock, that very much rules out ball joints.

The inners or a rack mesh wear issue (internal) is likely. You can get long and short racks.

I wanted to confirm a diagnostic: WHen checking for slop, did you turn one wheel (3 and 9) and watch the steering shaft? A bad rag joint can allow the steering wheel to not move while a wheel moves. If both wheels move instantly but the steering wheel doesnt, that can indicate a bad rag joint. If one wheel moves independant of the other (as it sounds like yours might), then your suspicion about the inners or rack are good.

I would get yourself some aftermarket rack bushings. Half the bushings that come with the reman'd racks are incorrect and you get stuck reusing your old ones. New bushings are inexpensive but can be hard to find cheap locally.

Random ramblings.

Good luck.

 

[Roland69]

to check ball joints you need to lift the front about 2 inches off the ground supported by the front crontrol arms as close to the wheel as possible and stick a prybar under the tire and pull up hard and let off completly while having someone look for any up and down play in the ball joint.

play when pulling and pushing at the 12 and 6 oclock posistions would likely be wheel bearings and they will be felt at any clock positions normally.

play at 3 and 9 oclock is normally tie rod ( inner or outer) and could also be rack, steering shaft, steering box (if it has one) pitman or idler arm (if equiped)

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

thanks for the info
I actually just ordered the rack today, and good news is I alraedy have MM rack bushings which I never bothered to install on the 4 banger rack (cause I knew I'd replace it)

as for the opposite tire moving at the same time...I beleieve it was totally indepenant slop on the one side and not affecting the other (although I didn't specifically stare at the opposite tire, we were looking at the movement/slop locaation as being the inner tie rod area. so....sounds like I should move forward with the new rack, bushings and inner tie rods that come with the rack- and cross my fingers that my highway riding improves!

 

[Roland69]

and you will have to get an alignment done

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

yes I haven't forgot about that!

 

[iwashmycar]

I have the same "wobble" I replaced the rack and it did nothing

I also now have a "pop" , which tells me its ball-joint time

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

hmm, I don't have the knock/pop telling me it's my ball joint-

I'll replace the rack and see how it goes

ps, can I use these steering rack bushings?
I can't find my MM bushings...errr
http://www.autozone.com/R,APP1138993/vehicleId,1899702/initialAction,partProductDetail/store,5112/partType,00898/shopping/partProductDetail.htm

 

[Mikey1968]

I know it's a bit late but I installed one of these AGR racks from Summit

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...part=AGR-732581&N=700+311050+115&autoview=sku

Came with the correct poly bushings and man is the steering tight! You even think of a lane change and you are there!

Good luck!

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

4cyl rack in a 5.0 is not the problem. I have an entire 4cyl suspension and sn-95 5 lug 17" cobra wheels. My car drives excellent.

I would vote for the steering shaft as stated above. I sell these used at my work here and there, and they are very sloppy cause they are 17-20 years old, and the rubber is all rotten.

If that is not it, then maybe it is the rack itself. Usually racks and steering shafts are the same price. check out 50 resto, their racks are expensive. How much are they at Murrays and Autozone??

 

[jammer84_03]

i just did the 5 lug swap. and i have the same issues. replaced the steering shaft and it dulled it down but the prob is still def there. im about to do the same diag...thanks for all the great test procedures

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

I picked up a new rack from advanced auto parts- just under 80 bucks
I'm sure it will work fine- even if it doesn't solve my problem...it'll solve the seeping issue- and i know my stang does have some other symptoms of a bad rack.

hell, I wouldn't doubt it if almost everything needs replacing!

I do plan to try doing my sway bar bushings at the same time- since those look pretty old and dirty

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

plan to do this on Thursday, so I'll post any results then
I need my dad's garage space, plus he's going to help me as well