Wobble in front tires- steering rack??

[Nicoleb3x3]

STATUS UPDATE:

My dad and I changed out the rack...

when we took the old rack off, we could pull on the inner tierod and there was play in and out where there was no play in the driver side- so this confirms what we spotted before.

with the new rack on..but now wayyyy of alignment I couldn't really test it tonight- but I did get up to 70 and if felt better (BUT before I confirm it let me get my alignment done...beause remember I said before sometimes my symptom of shake/wobble was more noticable than others.)

I'll post my confirmation by this weekend after my alignment

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

btw we only changed the rack and didn't touch the sway bar bushings...so any result is related to the rack

 

[Shakerhood]

I hope its good to go after you get it aligned!

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

ok, got my alignment today which turned out well in itself (last shop I delt with were morons and couldn't get it right the first time)

so anways, the results are basically that I still have a secondary problem of a slight shake occassionally on the steering wheel -BUT not all was lost see below list of observations since changing the rack which DID have play in the inner tie rod

new rack improvements
-the steering wheel shake has been dramatically minamized. this means my other issue (which beleived to be the ball joint at this point) was amplified by my rack problem. so; the new rack minamized the affects of the ball joint issue.
-better straight line stability and easier to control the steering -even when going straight. Before I had a feeling of wind blowing my car on a windy day...but on a non-windy day. Imagine that plus the shaking...yeah so it's still better now.

5.0 rack vs 2.3 rack
-more fun on wavey roads, I feel I don't have to turn the wheel as much to steer the car (and I know the ratio is different)
-tighter feeling which others describe as well
-better for the highway when it's less "touchy" making the car feel more stable by the stiffer rack when hitting bad spots on the roads or bumps...or yes even a bad ball joint.

conclusion
-yes I needed a new rack
-no it did not solve my problem 100% since I had more than one problem to start with
-my passenger side ball joint is not factory...and seem it was replaced with an inferior part at some point in it's previous life, and the alignment shop told me it does have play in the up/down movement

as for the ball joint....no i'm not replacing it- because I'll be doing all new control arms next season

 

[Shakerhood]

I did the Ford Racing Lower A Arms when I redid my Suspension, they were a good deal for the price.

 

[HISSIN50]

Don't let that Ball joint go too long - when it goes south, you can end up skidding down the road on your frame.

I've been really unimpressed with some of the aftermarket (parts store) ball joints out there. If possible, this is one time to really pony up and buy something better if you can (this is coming from a poor dude too).

You can swap the ball joint yourself (I'd recommend assistance from your Dad or a male - just for strength). I do them with the LCA on the car and it doesnt take too long. You can loan out the mobile-press from the parts store.

When the time comes, the arms that Shaker just mentioned are really nice if you can swing the 300 beans for 'em.

Good luck.

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

I noticed those, if I don't go with MM control arms I'll be getting the ford racing ones-

 

[Shakerhood]

I noticed those, if I don't go with MM control arms I'll be getting the ford racing ones-

You cant go wrong with either choice.

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

ok, got an update....although overall driving has improved since fixing the rack...I still had the symptom.

so, I had the ball joint fixed (since getting the alignment they told me it definately had play up and down and was worn pretty bad) ...so I fixed that, and to no avail at solving this issue that I apparently STILL have. The good news is, the ball joint really made a big difference, the damn thing was binding up and making the stang harder to steer without even realizing it- but damn what big difference! ...but the problem of "occassional wobble" still remains.....errrrrrr!!!!!

...when the mechanic did the ball joint he mentioned my wheel bearings were flaking apart, and too tight; he recommended I get them fixed asap! ...so since that was one of my original suspect items, I did the wheel bearings with my Dad today...again awesome how much nicer it seems to drive now; but the wobble is still there!

can someone perhaps help me eliminate my remaining thoughts on this:
1. perhaps the rims -16"- are just too much mass for my 4 cyl? I doubt this wouldn't every 4 banger stang with rims complain?
2. the rag joint in the steering shaft...even though my Dad said he looked at it when he did the steering rack and said it's fine and not the problem.....but I myself did not see him check it, so I can't verify what he says.
3. I know that my rotors do wobble when I step on the brakes...but this should not be related to highway driving without any brakes applied...
4. I have KYB struts (4 cyl parts) and Eibach Pro springs...yes "pro" meaning I have a very hard ride....could the waves in the tare cause this? meaning...maybe my suspension is transferring every road symptom to my steering wheel? ...
5. Could it be my engine itself? I just don't see that, I sware my 4 cyl did the same thing....

WTF; my brain is fried...I hate stuff I can't pin point a problem...

 

[NKau]

Sounds like tie rods. You probably should take care of this as soon as possible; when badly worn, tie rods can pull apart. You don't want this happening when you are cruising at 70 mph down the freeway.

You should be able to isolate whether it is inner or outer tie rods by crawling under the car with the front wheels off the ground, wiggling the wheels, and either listening or feeling where the slop is. If it's the inner tie rods, you probably are further ahead to go ahead and replace the rack right away.

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

I already did all that, see my last update....
at this point I feel the car is safe....just more of a pain in the ass.

parts I've replaced
inner and outter tie rods
rack
ball joint on one side
wheel bearings
I've had different tires and rotated several times
a few alignments

new thought though...maybe my caster is making an unstable system at highways speeds? I've heard caster settings can cause problems like this...but not heard that from a stang owner...

 

[NKau]

Sorry, didn't look through the whole thread.

"I know that my rotors do wobble when I step on the brakes...but this should not be related to highway driving without any brakes applied..."

This is almost with 100% certainty your problem. A warped rotor will have the same effect as a bent wheel, but obviously without the severity.

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

even if it doesn't do that in "soft" braking? I feel it only at "medium hard" braking...

I just didn't think that would be it when driving on the highway...

 

[NKau]

I wouldn't think it would take much brake rotor warpage to give you a noticeable shake. Sounds like you need to do the brakes anyway, so why not find out? The front brakes on a fox are far cheaper/easier to do than everything else you just went through. Good luck.

 

[Mustank]

You should definitely replace your rotors and pads if you have the cash. And the other ball joint as well - if one was bad, the other one's probably not too far behind.

Is the whole car shaking or just the steering wheel? Can you feel it when riding in the passenger seat? Have you checked all your motor mounts? Does it make any noise when it vibrates? If your car is lowered, do you have caster/camber plates and a bumpsteer kit?

 

[northy_polk]

even if it doesn't do that in "soft" braking? I feel it only at "medium hard" braking...

I just didn't think that would be it when driving on the highway...

thanks a BILLION GILLION dollars for this thread. i bought a 94 GT last thursday and it is doing this exact thing. it's frustrating to try and explain what it is doing. i'll try and you can say if yours is the same, although i've only noticed when going 10-20 mph, the front moves up and down in a left to right to left motion. in other words if you look at the hood, it looks like the front tires are ovular rather than round. i have some sounds that go along with it, but have only driven the car for an hour or so so i'm not sure how to describe those yet.

i'm looking forward to the outcome if you do indeed swap the rotors. this is to be my track car [dd is an 07 gt] and i'd like to feel confident it won't crap out on me at VIR or Summit or ????? at 100 mph!!!!

thanks again and good luck!

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

just wanted to follow up on this thread....my boyfriend and I changed out the rotors and pads along with new bearings (yeah again) ....change was...better but no cigar!

ok...I'm fed up; my car is never going to drive 70+ without a slight to mild inconsistant shake.

at this point I'm convienced I have to have a specialized balance to the 4 wheels to ensure the tires are not out of round or something lame....I don't know! maybe next spring when I get new rims and do the 5 lug swap something will change!!!!!!!