wont run 86 gt
- Thread starter Mustang86GT50
- Start date
BK_CAULEY
it's built for speed not longevity, woman
mr.jrichker sr. i beat you to it this time. 
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of a test lamp.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30
you can also consult this thread for help.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showpost.php?p=6161267
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of a test lamp.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30
you can also consult this thread for help.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showpost.php?p=6161267
Meh -- BK: that computer info is great and all but sometimes it won't help worth a damn (& Thanks Yet Again jrichker -- For all the great schematics -- having others post your schematics and info must make you feel pretty damned good -- and yeah -- I along with countless others highly appreciate the time you took to put those together)
ANYWAY.. many a time had my two 86's given me garbage and the computer didn't say squat... If you have a multimeter; start with electrical backprobing to be sure the injectors are getting power first -- if they are -- see if you have fuel in the fuel rail by giving the schrader valve a quick push to see if you have fuel in the fuel rail.
Also -- are you getting fuel pressure, spark, etc?
What else has the vehicle done or not done? Just saying the injectors aren't pulsating doesn't really help out all too much. Any other info?
If you don't have them already -- get a test light together (make or buy one) and get a multimeter or voltmeter to probe, check, test, etc.
Regards,
Gered
ANYWAY.. many a time had my two 86's given me garbage and the computer didn't say squat... If you have a multimeter; start with electrical backprobing to be sure the injectors are getting power first -- if they are -- see if you have fuel in the fuel rail by giving the schrader valve a quick push to see if you have fuel in the fuel rail.
Also -- are you getting fuel pressure, spark, etc?
What else has the vehicle done or not done? Just saying the injectors aren't pulsating doesn't really help out all too much. Any other info?
If you don't have them already -- get a test light together (make or buy one) and get a multimeter or voltmeter to probe, check, test, etc.
Regards,
Gered
Fuel injectors inoperative, one or more injectors either on all the time or will not squirt.
Tools needed: Noid light, Multimeter (volts & ohms), 10 MM socket &
extension, & ratchet.
Note: Do all of the steps and do them in order. The results of the
subsequent tests are based on the prior tests being successfully passed.
1.) Use an ohmmeter set on the low resistance scale and measure the resistance of
each injector across the two contacts inside the electrical connector. You should
see between 11-16 ohms. More or less than that is a bad injector. Next measure
between either one of the contacts and the metal on the injector body. You should
see greater than 100,000 ohms. Don’t hold the metal probe tips with your bare
hands when you make this measurement. It will give incorrect results if you do.
Some basics about the computer:
Remember that the computer does not supply power for any actuator or
relay. It provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That
means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go
to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.
2.) Get a noid light form AutoZone or other auto parts store, or even better
a set of them
This set is from http://www.toolking.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=12492 and costs $12.
3.) Use the noid light to determine that the injector pulses and isn’t
stuck in the on position. It you have a set of them install all of them and
compare the pulse intensity. Install the noid lights, turn the ignition switch to
Run and crank the engine. A light that doesn’t pulse and stays on has a
short to ground in the computer side of the circuit. That can be either a
wiring fault or a failed computer. If this is the case, remove the passenger
side lick panel and disconnect the computer connector. There is one 10
MM bolt holding it in place. Pull the connector all the way out of the
computer so that you can see the computer side pins.
Use the list from the graphic below to find the fuel injector pins for the
injectors that didn’t turn the noid light off.
4.) Set the multimeter to low scale Ohms and measure between the
computer ground located below the computer and the suspect fuel injector
pins. You should see greater than 100 K Ohms resistance. If you see less
than 100 Ohms, the wiring between the injector and the computer has a
short to ground and needs service. Check the harness and look for damage,
kinks or frayed spots.
5.) A single noid light that never turns on is either a wiring fault, or a
failed computer. Either the injector has no DC power or the computer has
failed and cannot switch the injector circuit to ground. Determine if the
injector has power by using the multimeter to check for 12 volts on the red
wire on the suspect injector connector. No 12 volts and you have a wiring fault.
Check the harness and look for damage, kinks or frayed spots. Check the 10
pin salt & pepper shaker connectors for bent pins, corrosion and damage.
If none of the noid lights flash and you have 12 volts at each injector, check
to see that you have good spark. Before you even think about replacing the
computer, see step 6.
Next Check the fuel injector wiring end to end. Each fuel injector has a red
wire (power) and an non-read wire (computer controlled ground). Set the
multimeter to low ohms and measure each non red fuel injector wire from
the fuel injector connector to the matching pin on the computer connector.
You should see less than 2 Ohms. More than that means a bad connection
or bad wiring.
See the graphic for the location of the 10 pin connectors:
See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.
Once you have determined that the suspect injectors have good power and
good wiring, the computer is the likely suspect, since a ground is required
to complete a circuit and make it function. The computer provides the
ground: if doesn’t, then the noid light will not flash.
6.) If you have gotten this far, then the problem is likely ignition
related. Remember the noid test using all of the noid lights? All of them
were supposed to be equally bright. Since you have already tested all the
electrical side of the fuel injector circuit, the one remaining common item is
the pip sensor inside the distributor. A failing pip sensor, damaged shutter
wheel or bent distributor shaft could all cause the pulse delivered to the
injectors to be faulty. A bad pip sensor will cause all the injectors not to fire
and you will have no spark. Dumping the codes will show a code 14.
7.) Spark plugs indicate one or more cylinders not firing: use the
multimeter to measure the resistance of the spark plug wires. The wires
should measure 2000 ohms perfoot of length. A 2 foot wire would be 4000
ohms and a 3 foot wire would be 6000 ohms. Some Taylor and Accel wires
have metal cores and will measure much less: that’s OK.
Next examine the spark plug wires very carefully for burn spots, cracks and
damaged insulation. One good thing to try is to start the engine while the
car is a very dark area, open the hood and look for sparks or blue glow.
They indicate the electricity is leaking out of the spark plug wires.
Thanks to Tmoss & Stang&2birds at www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ for some of the graphics
Thanks also to www.fordfuelinjection.com for some of the graphics.
Tools needed: Noid light, Multimeter (volts & ohms), 10 MM socket &
extension, & ratchet.
Note: Do all of the steps and do them in order. The results of the
subsequent tests are based on the prior tests being successfully passed.
1.) Use an ohmmeter set on the low resistance scale and measure the resistance of
each injector across the two contacts inside the electrical connector. You should
see between 11-16 ohms. More or less than that is a bad injector. Next measure
between either one of the contacts and the metal on the injector body. You should
see greater than 100,000 ohms. Don’t hold the metal probe tips with your bare
hands when you make this measurement. It will give incorrect results if you do.
Some basics about the computer:
Remember that the computer does not supply power for any actuator or
relay. It provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That
means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go
to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.
2.) Get a noid light form AutoZone or other auto parts store, or even better
a set of them
This set is from http://www.toolking.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=12492 and costs $12.
3.) Use the noid light to determine that the injector pulses and isn’t
stuck in the on position. It you have a set of them install all of them and
compare the pulse intensity. Install the noid lights, turn the ignition switch to
Run and crank the engine. A light that doesn’t pulse and stays on has a
short to ground in the computer side of the circuit. That can be either a
wiring fault or a failed computer. If this is the case, remove the passenger
side lick panel and disconnect the computer connector. There is one 10
MM bolt holding it in place. Pull the connector all the way out of the
computer so that you can see the computer side pins.
Use the list from the graphic below to find the fuel injector pins for the
injectors that didn’t turn the noid light off.
4.) Set the multimeter to low scale Ohms and measure between the
computer ground located below the computer and the suspect fuel injector
pins. You should see greater than 100 K Ohms resistance. If you see less
than 100 Ohms, the wiring between the injector and the computer has a
short to ground and needs service. Check the harness and look for damage,
kinks or frayed spots.
5.) A single noid light that never turns on is either a wiring fault, or a
failed computer. Either the injector has no DC power or the computer has
failed and cannot switch the injector circuit to ground. Determine if the
injector has power by using the multimeter to check for 12 volts on the red
wire on the suspect injector connector. No 12 volts and you have a wiring fault.
Check the harness and look for damage, kinks or frayed spots. Check the 10
pin salt & pepper shaker connectors for bent pins, corrosion and damage.
If none of the noid lights flash and you have 12 volts at each injector, check
to see that you have good spark. Before you even think about replacing the
computer, see step 6.
Next Check the fuel injector wiring end to end. Each fuel injector has a red
wire (power) and an non-read wire (computer controlled ground). Set the
multimeter to low ohms and measure each non red fuel injector wire from
the fuel injector connector to the matching pin on the computer connector.
You should see less than 2 Ohms. More than that means a bad connection
or bad wiring.
See the graphic for the location of the 10 pin connectors:
See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.
Once you have determined that the suspect injectors have good power and
good wiring, the computer is the likely suspect, since a ground is required
to complete a circuit and make it function. The computer provides the
ground: if doesn’t, then the noid light will not flash.
6.) If you have gotten this far, then the problem is likely ignition
related. Remember the noid test using all of the noid lights? All of them
were supposed to be equally bright. Since you have already tested all the
electrical side of the fuel injector circuit, the one remaining common item is
the pip sensor inside the distributor. A failing pip sensor, damaged shutter
wheel or bent distributor shaft could all cause the pulse delivered to the
injectors to be faulty. A bad pip sensor will cause all the injectors not to fire
and you will have no spark. Dumping the codes will show a code 14.
7.) Spark plugs indicate one or more cylinders not firing: use the
multimeter to measure the resistance of the spark plug wires. The wires
should measure 2000 ohms perfoot of length. A 2 foot wire would be 4000
ohms and a 3 foot wire would be 6000 ohms. Some Taylor and Accel wires
have metal cores and will measure much less: that’s OK.
Next examine the spark plug wires very carefully for burn spots, cracks and
damaged insulation. One good thing to try is to start the engine while the
car is a very dark area, open the hood and look for sparks or blue glow.
They indicate the electricity is leaking out of the spark plug wires.
Thanks to Tmoss & Stang&2birds at www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ for some of the graphics
Thanks also to www.fordfuelinjection.com for some of the graphics.
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