wtf!!!!!!!!!! overheating help

R.J. · Jul 27, 2006

If you have no fan coming on, with or with out the a/c, Then your problem is not the water pump or thermostat. Run a jumper wire (power) directly to the fan and see if it works. Check for an open circuit in the coolant temp sensor that screws into the end of the solid black coolant line.

sick_azz_cobra · Jul 27, 2006

would that sensor stop the a/c compressor from coming on?

drakesdad · Jul 27, 2006

R.J. said:
If you have no fan coming on, with or with out the a/c, Then your problem is not the water pump or thermostat. Run a jumper wire (power) directly to the fan and see if it works. Check for an open circuit in the coolant temp sensor that screws into the end of the solid black coolant line.

hey RJ.....I don't really think it's an intake problem...do you?

HISSIN50 · Jul 27, 2006

If the ECT is open, the LS fan should come on by default as I recall (system safeguard).

I just skimmed this - does your new stat have a jiggle valve? If you have air in the system, the gauge can read artificially high

When I bleed the system, I start with a cold motor. Jack up the driver front so the rad neck is the high point in the system. Let it idle (cover the rad neck with a rag, etc so hot coolant is less likely to burn you). Let it idle and watch things. You'll be able to note when the stat opens. You should see some air bubbling out of the system. Replenish water as necessary.

Good luck.

sick_azz_cobra · Jul 27, 2006

jiggle valve? im getting another stat tomorow just to be sure... should i stay with the stock 195? also getting a new coolant temp sensor to be safe

R.J. · Jul 27, 2006

Yes that would stop the compressor from coming on.
No I don't think it is an intake problem.
The fact that the fan is not coming on, really limits the causes of the problem. Also it makes the trouble shooting path very straight foward. First does the fan work at all? Blown fuse? No= bad fan. Second is something telling the fan to come on. i.e coolant temp switch, a/c switch

R.J. · Jul 27, 2006

I run a 180 deg and my gauge never goes past the "N" in normal.

sick_azz_cobra · Jul 27, 2006

i wired the fan to the battery and it works... i just ordered a new cool temp sensor, should i get the a/c switch also?

sick_azz_cobra · Jul 27, 2006

a/c switch a.k.a a/c clutch cycle switch?

sick_azz_cobra · Jul 27, 2006

R.J. said:
Yes that would stop the compressor from coming on.
No I don't think it is an intake problem.
The fact that the fan is not coming on, really limits the causes of the problem. Also it makes the trouble shooting path very straight foward. First does the fan work at all? Blown fuse? No= bad fan. Second is something telling the fan to come on. i.e coolant temp switch, a/c switch

this one?
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=FAA&mfrpartnumber=36494&parttype=431&ptset=A

R.J. · Jul 27, 2006

yes, get the a/c cycle switch because it sounds like a seperate problem to me. The fan should work even if the a/c is disabled.

sick_azz_cobra · Jul 27, 2006

will do that for sure..

coolant temp sensor
180 thermostat
a/c clutch cycle switch
water pump
i hope this all will fix my issues.

HISSIN50 · Jul 27, 2006

sick_azz_cobra said:
jiggle valve? im getting another stat tomorow just to be sure... should i stay with the stock 195? also getting a new coolant temp sensor to be safe

I'd get a Mr Gasket stat (or RS, Moroso, et al - I dont use anything but Mr Gasket, but other performance-oriented stats are comparable). 10 bucks wells spent. I'd agree and do run a 180*.

The jiggle valve is the little valve on the stat which allows air to purge. If your existing stat doesnt have this (or a hole drilled in it), it can be a real pain to bleed the system. Additionally, the stat can be damaged by the air pockets trapped in the system (the above-mentioned stats are balanced, which helps protect the pellet).

94 Cobra 5.0 · Jul 27, 2006

another thing that will help bleed air out of the system faster is to drill a small hole in thermostat and place that at the top when you install the t-stat housing back to the intake.

drakesdad · Jul 27, 2006

R.J. said:
Is the fan coming on at all? with the A/C on?

OH......I totally missed this post.......DA

sick_azz_cobra · Jul 27, 2006

heres a new one.... for ****s and giggles i went out and started the car a little bit ago and th cel flashed 4 times and the rpms went up to 2000 hmmmm wonder what that means. anyone local want to come over and fix my car?

sick_azz_cobra · Jul 28, 2006

sick_azz_cobra said:
heres a new one.... for ****s and giggles i went out and started the car a little bit ago and th cel flashed 4 times and the rpms went up to 2000 hmmmm wonder what that means. anyone local want to come over and fix my car?

anyone?

sick_azz_cobra · Jul 28, 2006

im going to try using a restrictor plate instead of a thermostat any feedback on one of those?

HISSIN50 · Jul 28, 2006

Using a restrictor plate is something I'd do on a known, good system. It often takes some trial and error to find what diameter opening works best.

sick_azz_cobra · Jul 28, 2006

put in a 180 thermostat and new water pump, jacked the car up and filled kept squeezing the hose till bubles came out, i did that until just coolant came out, fan IS coming on now at about 210 but temp stays at about 215 but no hotter then that, a/c still wont work but oh well probably low freon.... CEL is on. the car is monstrous down low 1...2...3rd sputter CEL went off then it took off like a bat out of hell. also have a battery light on??? Also set timing at 0 degrees.

wtf!!!!!!!!!! overheating help

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