Yanked Motor... Ugly Pictures

[nightrider50]

Pictures of cracked block, broken crank, and twisted rods: PRI - SPITFIRE & GT6 MAGAZINE Article page 65 Vol 2 Issue 1

I plan on re-using the heads, pushrods, lifters, rockers, intake manifolds, distributor, oil collector pump thing, oil pan, supercharger, etc. Aside from the bottom end, (visually) everything else looks fine. Is there anything I should check out though before I put it back together with the new block? Any other damage that might have been done?

 

[Duncan McDougal]

I would send the heads to a machine shop to check for bent valves.

 

[Shaolin Crane]

and i would invest in an aftermarket block

 

[93 LX]

why did the maf sensor burn?

 

[Rick 91GT]

Looks like the crank walked but I'd need to see the cap surface on the block to confirm. Looks pretty standard to a stock 302 block when it breaks, right around the #2 main.

I would swap the lifters personally and throughly flush anything that had oil going through it, be surprised how fast that debris travels through the motor.

Keep the Vortech belt tension in spec, if you crank down on the belt to prevent it from slippling you are actually pulling the crank forward and up, it tends to take out the front bearing and destroy the thrust. A girdle and main studs will HELP with the crank walk, but it will not stop it. Dart block should be a plan in your future........

 

[nightrider50]

Took the heads down to the machine shop to check on the valves.

Definitely going with an upgraded block!

No clue what happened to the MAF, that isn't how it is supposed to look, right?

What does the compression look like on a DART 347? Would it work with the Twisted Wedge heads and S-Trim? And would you recommend going forged or cast on the crank? and H-beam or I-beam rods? Definitely want to do it right the first time around, but don't want to spend the cash if it is not necessary.

 

[Shaolin Crane]

Took the heads down to the machine shop to check on the valves.

Definitely going with an upgraded block!

No clue what happened to the MAF, that isn't how it is supposed to look, right?

What does the compression look like on a DART 347? Would it work with the Twisted Wedge heads and S-Trim? And would you recommend going forged or cast on the crank? and H-beam or I-beam rods? Definitely want to do it right the first time around, but don't want to spend the cash if it is not necessary.

i woud go all out this time, best do it once and be relaxed about it, from what i was told by my buddy anthony at probe, i beams from what i was told will allow the engine to turn higher rpm's easier, if i were you i would call up dart and order this kit, Dart - SHP Small Block Ford Short Blocks 347 in a sportman dart block should handle your power needs quite nicely

 

[old_blue]

or be nice and ask Rick 91GT to build ya one. heard he reasonable and quality is excellent.

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

Duct tape and glue!!!

 

[90lxcoupe]

Definitly talk to Rick, he builds a quality product.