Yanked Motor... Ugly Pictures

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nightrider50

Member

Aug 28, 2003

186

0

17

California

Jun 21, 2009

#1

• Jun 21, 2009

• #1

Pictures of cracked block, broken crank, and twisted rods: PRI - SPITFIRE & GT6 MAGAZINE Article page 65 Vol 2 Issue 1

I plan on re-using the heads, pushrods, lifters, rockers, intake manifolds, distributor, oil collector pump thing, oil pan, supercharger, etc. Aside from the bottom end, (visually) everything else looks fine. Is there anything I should check out though before I put it back together with the new block? Any other damage that might have been done?

 

Duncan McDougal

Active Member

Aug 17, 2005

99

0

27

Gainesville, FL

Jun 21, 2009

#2

• Jun 21, 2009

• #2

I would send the heads to a machine shop to check for bent valves.

 

Shaolin Crane

Banned

Oct 6, 2008

2,627

7

0

Kommiefornia

Jun 22, 2009

#3

• Jun 22, 2009

• #3

and i would invest in an aftermarket block

 

93 LX

Founding Member

Jun 2, 2000

3,081

3

0

Norwalk, CA.

Jun 22, 2009

#4

• Jun 22, 2009

• #4

why did the maf sensor burn?

 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master

Nov 29, 1999

9,692

95

99

PA

Jun 22, 2009

#5

• Jun 22, 2009

• #5

Looks like the crank walked but I'd need to see the cap surface on the block to confirm. Looks pretty standard to a stock 302 block when it breaks, right around the #2 main.

I would swap the lifters personally and throughly flush anything that had oil going through it, be surprised how fast that debris travels through the motor.

Keep the Vortech belt tension in spec, if you crank down on the belt to prevent it from slippling you are actually pulling the crank forward and up, it tends to take out the front bearing and destroy the thrust. A girdle and main studs will HELP with the crank walk, but it will not stop it. Dart block should be a plan in your future........

 

N

nightrider50

Member

Aug 28, 2003

186

0

17

California

Jun 22, 2009

#6

• Jun 22, 2009

• #6

Took the heads down to the machine shop to check on the valves.

Definitely going with an upgraded block!

No clue what happened to the MAF, that isn't how it is supposed to look, right?

What does the compression look like on a DART 347? Would it work with the Twisted Wedge heads and S-Trim? And would you recommend going forged or cast on the crank? and H-beam or I-beam rods? Definitely want to do it right the first time around, but don't want to spend the cash if it is not necessary.

 

Shaolin Crane

Banned

Oct 6, 2008

2,627

7

0

Kommiefornia

Jun 23, 2009

#7

• Jun 23, 2009

• #7

nightrider50 said:

Took the heads down to the machine shop to check on the valves.

Definitely going with an upgraded block!

No clue what happened to the MAF, that isn't how it is supposed to look, right?

What does the compression look like on a DART 347? Would it work with the Twisted Wedge heads and S-Trim? And would you recommend going forged or cast on the crank? and H-beam or I-beam rods? Definitely want to do it right the first time around, but don't want to spend the cash if it is not necessary.

Click to expand...

i woud go all out this time, best do it once and be relaxed about it, from what i was told by my buddy anthony at probe, i beams from what i was told will allow the engine to turn higher rpm's easier, if i were you i would call up dart and order this kit, Dart - SHP Small Block Ford Short Blocks 347 in a sportman dart block should handle your power needs quite nicely

 

old_blue

15 Year Member

Nov 3, 2003

1,783

282

124

Jun 23, 2009

#8

• Jun 23, 2009

• #8

or be nice and ask Rick 91GT to build ya one. heard he reasonable and quality is excellent.

 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta

Founding Member

Nov 22, 2001

3,501

28

119

Motor City

Jun 23, 2009

#9

• Jun 23, 2009

• #9

Duct tape and glue!!!

 

90lxcoupe

20+ Year Stangneter

Oct 7, 2003

3,596

350

134

Jun 23, 2009

#10

• Jun 23, 2009

• #10

Definitly talk to Rick, he builds a quality product.