I noticed, just within the last day, that the underhood bracing is pushing in the rubber elbow. I'll almost certainly need to buy a non stock hood.

85GTStangGuy said:

PDR could probably make that way less noticeable.

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limp said:

Alot of People speaking well of Kaenan Hoods, in Melbourne FL, on another site

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Can't find a website for them. A little help?

Habu135 said:

... tbe rear TPS screw impacted the hood and made a small dent.

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PDR could probably make that way less noticeable.

Here’s what I’m dealing with so far. Some of the wires on my doors are not together. Think they had an issue with with the old alarm that’s on the car. Wires look to be to the door actuators which are aftermarket. Have no idea where the wire for my antenna is at either.

Update:

Okay guys, it's still leaking. I've barely driven this car since going back to the stock setup.

I'm guessing the mating surface isn't straight. What are my options?

Can I try rtv only on both EGR sides? And what kind? My last attempt was gaskets with permatex grey thermostat housing rtv.

Or can I bypass the EGR coolant lines if I'm still running the EGR setup? Car is mostly stock.

Potomus Pete said:

Spray starter fluid in the carb and see if it starts. If it wants to go then you know you probably need a fuel pump. Or at least fuel related. Lets get them going. Its spring time

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I did do that, but it just had a new fuel pump put in a week before I got it. Not sure if it’s faulty or what’s going on there. But at least I can start it up! Spring is here!

Alot of People speaking well of Kaenan Hoods, in Melbourne FL, on another site

So I got after it after work tonight and crimped the B+ connection a little righter. It was still having the same issue with it making contact and blowing the main fuse - OR SO I THOUGHT.....

I started pulling the harness to send it in for an RMA. While I was trying to pull the O2 sensor wire, I found that I had ANOTHER bundle of wires running down that direction. It turned out to be the coil connector from the harness and it was melted to one of the header tubes. That explains why it ran and then didn't anymore.

I paid no attention to that circuit as I was going over the harness again and again and again and, since it was between the header and the tunnel, it was kind of "out of sight out of mind." So once I got that pulled up, cut the wires and applied heat shrink, zip tied them up and out of the way, then reconnected everything else, it fired up. Now on to trying to get it set up and running properly again.....

It does start up ok, just idles really low with a chug and as soon as you put it in gear it wants to stall. Acceleration is even worse if I can pump the throttle through stalling before hand.
However it is only random that us stalls but still chugs pretty good at low idle.

I guess there is a 5 minute window that allows edits. after that you cannot, which is silly imo

and now I cant edit the comment 2 lines up lol seems that the minute you post again, you lose the ability to edit the message before that, i guess maybe?? either way, there must be admin here because they deleted the thread I was asking about! yay! thank you!

I now see the edit option on the replys im making from my laptop, but if i scroll up to the original post here, my very first comment, there is no way to edit or delete it, no can I edit the replys I made from my phone. so strange

nah I know as crazy as it sounds there is litteraly no option for it. must be because im a new member or something? are there no mods or admin here on this site? I see its full of pop up advertisments now. useually a tell tail sign its been sold and no longer monitored

Engine is back out and time to reinforce where I had to cut for header clearance. Drivers side is very minimal so that is where I am starting. Have to reroute the brake lines because they originally ran right next to the header.
Brake lines are now done. Just need to clean up the cuts and put new metal back in. Will most likely go with a piece of angle to fill the gap. This side I’m not too worried about because the amount of cutting needed for clearance was minimal. Passenger side is a different story. But I’ll get this side done and then worry about the passenger side.

Unless you want it to look factory under the console and carpet I never saw the point of doing hump...

I swapped my first one back in highschool with out the hump, and my current one is swapped with out the hump....zero issues with either

Spray starter fluid in the carb and see if it starts. If it wants to go then you know you probably need a fuel pump. Or at least fuel related. Lets get them going. Its spring time

I was expecting to see an upper bracket with a slot. Is the adjustment slot on the lower bracket?

I don't know of any that are stock height. I also would say you REALLY should run hood pins with a fiberglass hood as I've seen WAY too many cars with busted windshields and cowls from them flying up. There's a few low profile ones that are hard to tell they are even on there, I'm using the circle type just like what comes on the most recent GT500 from the factory.

I think there was a Saleen version that was fiberglass and stock height but had some vents in it, @95steedamustang would know for sure though and it would be hard to find and expensive I bet.

Exactly. Fiberglass hoods often require some "adjusting". I recall buying Saleen side skirts for my '97 Cobra years ago and they were garbage.

I'd probably have to purchase it, test fit it and THEN have my painter do his thing.

My mechanic, following my new engine install, discovered tbe rear TPS screw impacted the hood and made a small dent. Now I'm deciding on a new stock or fiberglass good. It's always something.

I do not have pictures. When I changed the input shaft, I also put a billet counter shaft support in it. I "inspected" while I had it apart. I was sure to shim counter and input shafts in compliance with a YouTube video by Paul Cangilosi. He apparently is a goto T5 expert. I understand watching a video and performing the work are two different things. I felt good with final assembly and had no issues I'm aware of. A T5 is pretty simple. I will tear it back down if it doesn't get any better. I have only put maybe 10 miles on the car since the build. This has been an ongoing build for 3.5 years and I'm ready to see what I built is capable of.

Livhm said:

I am hoping to not do a carb rebuild. I don’t know much yet about the car. I think I’ll check out the accelerator pump next. That seems easy enough.

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I think that would be a good start. Let me know what you find out!

SRogersKS said:

Not yet, but it is a slow work in progress. So far all I have done is replace spark plugs and spark plug wires, which helped somewhat but not much. Hoping to do fuel filter and do a carb rebuild soon.

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I am hoping to not do a carb rebuild. I don’t know much yet about the car. I think I’ll check out the accelerator pump next. That seems easy enough.