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Habu135 · 2024-04-27T11:30:57-0500

Kid wita 5oh said:
My extended gt wing is from them.. A+ to deal w

Kid wita 5oh said:
My extended gt wing is from them.. A+ to deal with

Are you able to share some contact information?

Willybill32 · 2024-04-27T11:08:28-0500

gearhead77 said:
Looking for input here:

I like the look of the gold mesh SVE wheels from LMR, so when they finally came back in stock, I bought them. However, in my mobile site ordering frenzy to buy them, I didn't read closely that I had added the staggered setup to my cart (17x9 rear, 17x8 front). My car is largely original and stock and I'm trying to keep it as close as I can. I finally got my car from storage and did a test fit and it's obvious there will be clearance issues. LMR is being finicky about doing an exchange for 17x8's and I'm sure that part of the reason is the wheels are no longer in stock and it took nearly a year for them to come back into stock last time.

So after searching here, these are my options:
- Run without quad shocks which seems about 50/50 on the difference it makes.
-Get the OEM style quad shock, which is thinner than the ones I have on there. Or removing the dust shield from the current quad.
- Get new control arms, eliminating the need for a quad shock (according to LMR, which would like to sell me more parts.)

I'm not entirely opposed to the last option, since doing the work required to replace the control arms would allow me to replace the 30 year old rear springs and associated bushings, which are in OK shape since the car only has 72k on it but still old. And of course, I could just do all the work and replace those bushings.

This car is a cruiser, I'm looking to keep at as close to original as possible, but I do enjoy driving it "spiritedly" on occasion. If upgraded control arms make it better, I'm fine with the upgrade.

Kids, make sure you read closely before clicking buy!

Late to the discussion...but I replaced all the struts and shocks (including quad shocks) on my '86, they installed the LMR staggered chrome pony wheels in 17X8/9 size with the Nitto tires. I reversed my quad shocks and got enough clearance to avoid spacers.

Bill

Nicolaj · 2024-04-27T09:32:33-0500

update on the new mount?
I installed my brand new transmission and it didnt change anything. Next step for me i think i want to buy a 3rd flywheel maybe more expensive and see if that does anything and if that dont help, i will try a oem bellhousing. Let me know if it helped with that oem rubber transmission mount

slow84lx · 2024-04-27T09:13:23-0500

I just read the whole thread. What a story! The car is looking great!

This highlights the reason why I will never completely trust a body shop. I lived next to one as a teenager for a few years in the early '80's and saw a few of those shortcuts in person. All of the stories since have confirmed this distrust. There are a few good places out there and I have followed along with the documentation of several cars at K&K with a lot of interest.

I think that if my stang ever makes it to a body shop it will be completely stripped with no engine/trans, interior, trim, windows, lights, etc. Fenders, doors, trunk, and hood removed for easy bodywork / painting.

The less that the shop has to deal with the more focus can be placed onto the bodywork & paint and getting it turned around quickly.

Potomus Pete · 2024-04-27T08:18:59-0500

I like your engine bay. Looks clean and organized. Nice shade of red

91GTstroked · 2024-04-27T06:56:48-0500

slow84lx said:
If it isn't flat, sand it until it is flat. It won't take long and the pitting should be removed at the same time.

Thanks I plan on attacking this next week.

AeroCoupe · 2024-04-26T21:40:25-0500

Paul is a in every sense a SME when it comes to T5’s so if you followed his video the the input shaft and counter support were done right.

JJHstang · 2024-04-26T20:43:50-0500

Realmongo said:
I was expecting to see an upper bracket with a slot. Is the adjustment slot on the lower bracket?

Yes, got it installed, did a few tests and it is good. I was able to get both hands on the alternator. I lifted and pulled as a fried tightened the nut.

SRogersKS · 2024-04-26T17:42:58-0500

Potomus Pete said:
Spray starter fluid in the carb and see if it starts. If it wants to go then you know you probably need a fuel pump. Or at least fuel related. Lets get them going. Its spring time

I did do that, but it just had a new fuel pump put in a week before I got it. Not sure if it’s faulty or what’s going on there. But at least I can start it up! Spring is here!

LILCBRA · 2024-04-26T17:12:11-0500

So I got after it after work tonight and crimped the B+ connection a little righter. It was still having the same issue with it making contact and blowing the main fuse - OR SO I THOUGHT.....

I started pulling the harness to send it in for an RMA. While I was trying to pull the O2 sensor wire, I found that I had ANOTHER bundle of wires running down that direction. It turned out to be the coil connector from the harness and it was melted to one of the header tubes. That explains why it ran and then didn't anymore. :doh:

I paid no attention to that circuit as I was going over the harness again and again and again and, since it was between the header and the tunnel, it was kind of "out of sight out of mind." So once I got that pulled up, cut the wires and applied heat shrink, zip tied them up and out of the way, then reconnected everything else, it fired up. Now on to trying to get it set up and running properly again.....

leasureryan · 2024-04-26T17:07:28-0500

I guess there is a 5 minute window that allows edits. after that you cannot, which is silly imo

Mustang5L5 · 2024-04-26T16:53:53-0500

That’s really the only reason. I originally did it without the hump.

I did it when I went through my interior a couple years ago just to get a better fit with the lower shifter seal. Other that that not necessary really.

78 Mach1 · 2024-04-26T16:03:35-0500

Engine is back out and time to reinforce where I had to cut for header clearance. Drivers side is very minimal so that is where I am starting. Have to reroute the brake lines because they originally ran right next to the header.

Brake lines are now done. Just need to clean up the cuts and put new metal back in. Will most likely go with a piece of angle to fill the gap. This side I’m not too worried about because the amount of cutting needed for clearance was minimal. Passenger side is a different story. But I’ll get this side done and then worry about the passenger side.

johnmh · 2024-04-26T14:17:37-0500

I installed a new alternator after the old one took a crap, and after the first drive, it stopped charging. I’ve checked all the fuses and the battery indicator lamp, and the connector that powers the lamp doesn’t have any power going into one of the terminals to power the lamp. it’s the LG/R wire. Could it just be the wire is broken somewhere in the loom?

Mustang5L5 · 2024-04-26T12:41:18-0500

I ended up joining that page and searched 1993 cobra. I found that car, but i also found some real gems. Sub-1k mile cobras around the same price point. The want is real. But that's GT500 money too.

Habu135 said:
I'd want that car to be perfect for that money. Why the current owner didn't take an hour or two to put it back to stock and wash the floor mats is beyond me.

I had the same thoughts when i see cars for sale. Someone asking $25K+ for a clean coupe, and then the interior pic shows the map pocket ripped off, or the door speaker grill broken. If you want top dollar for your car, show me you focused on the details on the car. Broken items that are easy fixes make me wonder what else the owner didn't care about.

r_manriquez · 2024-04-26T09:35:56-0500

Toddfly13 said:
Have a 2008 Mustang that recently changed the computer, Motorcraft fuel injectors and NGK spark plugs. Getting a P0205 code.

I confirmed power from the battery to the injector.

No Ground from the ECM.

Nothing on Noid light.

Any suggestions to find the problem. Could the computer possibly be bad? Bad connector? And anybody know what pin on the computer is the ground for the #5 injector?

Did you ever find out what the problem was?

Mustang5L5 · 2024-04-26T08:29:18-0500

I concur. I would not repair this. The cons outweigh the pros here. The fact that the press fit failed means it will fail again and you are putting too much trust on loctite and 10-32s.

limp · 2024-04-26T08:04:12-0500

I assume this is not your everyday driver?
It is such a nice car it hurts to see it hacked up..
Since your plans have changed have you thought of finding another car for your coyote project?
Maybe a V8 manual car that is not in as good a shape? Your going to have to take apart whatever car you will be getting so why not a Parts car to start with?
You can drive this car as is ( if you need to) or sell it to finance your project. Not a rusted out junker, but maybe a V8 car missing its drivetrain or the front end bolt on parts?
A parts car would allow you to slowly work on it when the monies are there.....

Carpenter78 · 2024-04-26T05:40:07-0500

I bought the non silicone hose kit from LMR and while it was nice to get every hose I need, they are very thin and cheesy. I will be getting Gates hoses asap.

Realmongo · Thursday at 7:10 PM

Just to be clear, when you say it won't fully turn over, do you mean it won't crank or it cranks but won't start.

bird_dog0347 · Thursday at 6:45 PM

It looks good with the glass in the roof too.

General karthief · Thursday at 5:26 PM

BBK/Edelbrock throttle body?

goofyfoot53 · Thursday at 4:12 PM

HELP!! I have a 93 Mustang LX 2.3L auto with 85k. I installed a TransGo shift kit to the letter, according to the instructions. While it solved the stalling when put in gear problem, now it's very soft and slow going into reverse when cold. Once warm, I can't feel it go into reverse at all, but apparently it does shift since it moves back when I apply throttle, but it slips a lot, requiring me to rev it more than I feel comfortable. I've started parking where I can roll backward or drive straight forward. Before I had the stalling problem, it shifted into reverse very firmly. A bit too firmly, in fact. I called TransGo tech support, but they had no answer. The tech guy suggested changing the TransGo spring on the reverse servo back to the original spring to see if that would help. Of course, that would require draining all the fluid and dropping the pan again, which I really don't want to do without knowing for sure that is the problem. In addition, the Mustang is my only working car right now because my other vehicle has developed a severe oil leak, to the tune of over a quart of oil when I take my wife to work, a 12-mile round trip. I believe it's the timing cover gasket, which is a lot of work to change. Btw, it doesn't slip at all in any forward gears. Any ideas?

AeroCoupe · Thursday at 2:44 PM

You said you were deleting the low pressure fuel regulator so I assumed you were referring to the stock mustang FPR being it is set at a lower pressure that what a stock Miata uses. Now that you have pointed out you removed a low pressure carb regulator it makes sense.

91AOD5.0LX · Thursday at 1:50 PM

If you decide on the above aftermarket replacements I can provide you with a 6% off coupon to save you 42 bucks.

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