Spray starter fluid in the carb and see if it starts. If it wants to go then you know you probably need a fuel pump. Or at least fuel related. Lets get them going. Its spring time

I was expecting to see an upper bracket with a slot. Is the adjustment slot on the lower bracket?

I don't know of any that are stock height. I also would say you REALLY should run hood pins with a fiberglass hood as I've seen WAY too many cars with busted windshields and cowls from them flying up. There's a few low profile ones that are hard to tell they are even on there, I'm using the circle type just like what comes on the most recent GT500 from the factory.

I think there was a Saleen version that was fiberglass and stock height but had some vents in it, @95steedamustang would know for sure though and it would be hard to find and expensive I bet.

I do not have pictures. When I changed the input shaft, I also put a billet counter shaft support in it. I "inspected" while I had it apart. I was sure to shim counter and input shafts in compliance with a YouTube video by Paul Cangilosi. He apparently is a goto T5 expert. I understand watching a video and performing the work are two different things. I felt good with final assembly and had no issues I'm aware of. A T5 is pretty simple. I will tear it back down if it doesn't get any better. I have only put maybe 10 miles on the car since the build. This has been an ongoing build for 3.5 years and I'm ready to see what I built is capable of.

I ended up joining that page and searched 1993 cobra. I found that car, but i also found some real gems. Sub-1k mile cobras around the same price point. The want is real. But that's GT500 money too.

Habu135 said:

I'd want that car to be perfect for that money. Why the current owner didn't take an hour or two to put it back to stock and wash the floor mats is beyond me.

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I had the same thoughts when i see cars for sale. Someone asking $25K+ for a clean coupe, and then the interior pic shows the map pocket ripped off, or the door speaker grill broken. If you want top dollar for your car, show me you focused on the details on the car. Broken items that are easy fixes make me wonder what else the owner didn't care about.

Sometimes you've gotta change it up and watch The View or a Hallmark movie or something....

Toddfly13 said:

Have a 2008 Mustang that recently changed the computer, Motorcraft fuel injectors and NGK spark plugs. Getting a P0205 code.

I confirmed power from the battery to the injector.

No Ground from the ECM.

Nothing on Noid light.

Any suggestions to find the problem. Could the computer possibly be bad? Bad connector? And anybody know what pin on the computer is the ground for the #5 injector?

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Did you ever find out what the problem was?

I concur. I would not repair this. The cons outweigh the pros here. The fact that the press fit failed means it will fail again and you are putting too much trust on loctite and 10-32s.

I assume this is not your everyday driver?
It is such a nice car it hurts to see it hacked up..
Since your plans have changed have you thought of finding another car for your coyote project?
Maybe a V8 manual car that is not in as good a shape? Your going to have to take apart whatever car you will be getting so why not a Parts car to start with?
You can drive this car as is ( if you need to) or sell it to finance your project. Not a rusted out junker, but maybe a V8 car missing its drivetrain or the front end bolt on parts?
A parts car would allow you to slowly work on it when the monies are there.....

I bought the non silicone hose kit from LMR and while it was nice to get every hose I need, they are very thin and cheesy. I will be getting Gates hoses asap.

Just to be clear, when you say it won't fully turn over, do you mean it won't crank or it cranks but won't start.

It looks good with the glass in the roof too.

BBK/Edelbrock throttle body?

HELP!! I have a 93 Mustang LX 2.3L auto with 85k. I installed a TransGo shift kit to the letter, according to the instructions. While it solved the stalling when put in gear problem, now it's very soft and slow going into reverse when cold. Once warm, I can't feel it go into reverse at all, but apparently it does shift since it moves back when I apply throttle, but it slips a lot, requiring me to rev it more than I feel comfortable. I've started parking where I can roll backward or drive straight forward. Before I had the stalling problem, it shifted into reverse very firmly. A bit too firmly, in fact. I called TransGo tech support, but they had no answer. The tech guy suggested changing the TransGo spring on the reverse servo back to the original spring to see if that would help. Of course, that would require draining all the fluid and dropping the pan again, which I really don't want to do without knowing for sure that is the problem. In addition, the Mustang is my only working car right now because my other vehicle has developed a severe oil leak, to the tune of over a quart of oil when I take my wife to work, a 12-mile round trip. I believe it's the timing cover gasket, which is a lot of work to change. Btw, it doesn't slip at all in any forward gears. Any ideas?

You said you were deleting the low pressure fuel regulator so I assumed you were referring to the stock mustang FPR being it is set at a lower pressure that what a stock Miata uses. Now that you have pointed out you removed a low pressure carb regulator it makes sense.

If you decide on the above aftermarket replacements I can provide you with a 6% off coupon to save you 42 bucks.

The passenger window will not operate from the switch or from the drivers master switch. The auto up/down works when the vehicle is off and the door is opened or closed but not when the vehicle is running. Fuses test ok, power at the fuse leg is <12v (11.xx)

Assuming the motor works if the auto up/down is happening, but can't find this gremlin and before i start throwing parts at it, I figured that i'd see if anyone else had a similar problem. Btw, the only fuse i can find for the passenger window is #29 (engine compartment) and #34 (driver) and have tested them both and swapped them with the same result. Haynes doesn't reference a relay that i can find and the manual shows electrical diagram for fuses for 2007 that don't match the vehicle even though it says 2005-2014.

Also, switches light up, confirmed power to the switches, and the switches have continuity in the up/down position on driver and passenger so the 5A fuse at the smart junction box must be good as well. I'm sure its something i'm overlooking and no there is no passenger window lockout near the Drivers master switch.

Any suggestions are welcomed.

Transmission hump is also different.


you can certainly make it work without the hump.

Ice ice baby! Ice that back Jim. Getting old ain't for pussies.

Thanks.

Thanks guys,I'm picking it up today.super excited.14k original miles..Quick question,there is no way to turn back the odometer on a 01 gt is there?I will post pictures asap.thanks again..

Csheets88 said:

Not completely. It has a newer Motorcraft alternator. Oem

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Csheets88 said:

With heat and head lights on it will drop it

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These are not answers that help, the volts will very according to RPMs normally, need to get familiar with diagnostic tools and terms, beg or borrow a volt/olm meter, read voltage at idle, nothing on, and then with blower, lights and wipers on, then say 1800 RPMs, and battery voltage with engine/key off. I have to write things down cause my memory bank is mostly full of useless crap that takes up too much space.
Also need to monitor fuel pressure to see if/what changes when it starts to act up.
We can point you in the right direction, a good start would be a repair manual or better yet an assembly/repair manual by Ford, ebay has some.
Some helpful info can be found in on the tech main page:
There is some info on the 3g alternator upgrade in there too.

IIRC, the only Tremec product that Syncromesh is recommended for is the TKO Line of transmissions. Perhaps even the original 3550 as well.

All others took whatever Dextron ATF was recommended at the time and have all been superceeded by Dextron/Merc V. It's tough to get an official tremec stance these days because they now offer their own line of trans fluid and have seemingly wiped all previous documentation as to what fluid to run and now say "run our fluid". (Tremec HP-MTF). Ford states Mercon V now.

I've run Mobil 1 ATF in mine since the early 2000's.


With that said. I know a lot of folks run SYnchromesh in a T5 and have not seen or heard of any instances of damage from it.

Food for thought..

Gabriels are a little thinner, so you might be able to flip them to gain more clearance.

Obviously wheel offset plays a huge role in fit.

On the phone there are three dots to the right of quote. Edit is in there.