Basic Stang electrical question... capacitor?

Synned

took tubgirl on a date and got banned
Mar 31, 2005
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Philly
Hey guys
Recently I've been noticing that my electro-luminescent gauges will shut off when I'm at a light. I know its because of the UD pulleys and charging. I'm guessing with EL it's either on or off depending if you have enough voltage or not...but I was wondering if there was like a small capacitor I could buy to stick behind there? As soon as I <i>tap</i> the gas pedal it turns on.

Thanks guys
Joe
 
put the reg alt pully back on, or up your idle a little.

A capacitor is made for short realseses of power but need to be charged also, its good for a sudden drop in voltage like a subwoofer hitting

To try and use it for a constant low voltage situation like at idle for you it wouldnt do anything, it charges at the peak voltage it receives and then relases that much when there is a change in that

The capcitor tries to keep everything constant, like if theres a sudden drop it will release itself to keep that constant level.
 
Thanks guys...hmm I wonder what I should do....
Someone *cough* woops...stripped my alternator pulley. :bang: :bang:
Maybe I'll just try to bump the idle a little bit.
 
Also ensure that the source for the gauge overlay's power is not seeing any significant voltage drop compared to the battery. If it is, this exacerbates the dimming issue you're seeing.

I like the idea of bumping the idle if you cant overdrive the alt.

Good luck Joe.
 
will putting in a capacitor help when i flip on the switch for the fan? if i'm idling and turn it on, it dips real low in the RPMs. where in the system do you place it if so?
 
I've got the same gauges (and LOVE them)... the stock pulley in place of the underdrive alt pulley + new alternator fixed my voltage problems for good.

My car idles in gear (it's an autotragic) at 726rpm.

Wes
 
I've got the same gauges (and LOVE them)... the stock pulley in place of the underdrive alt pulley + new alternator fixed my voltage problems for good.

My car idles in gear (it's an autotragic) at 726rpm.

Wes


So guys, to bump the idle all I do is turn the idle screw a tiny bit? Or do I have to do something with that micro measurement tool thing (?) first?
 
The alternator is not necessarily the cause. Most of them don't put out jack at very low [internal] RPM's - a 200 amp unit can suck just as bad as a stocker at a given idle setting.

This is not to say that a new alternator might not help, but I'd really hate to buy one and have the same issue afterwards.

There are some variables with setting the idle. Basically though, it should be less than one turn of the idle stop screw to bump it up (then the IAC might hose with the setting afterwards, as it adapts). Keep notes on your adjustments so you can get back to where you started.

Good luck.
 
Agreed - the alternator fixed my problem because my old one was old and worn out.

Try swapping on your stock pulley first before you drop cash on a new alternator. It only takes a few minutes to do the swap (if you have an impact wrench).

Wes

Are you saying they can use all of the underdrive pulleys except the alt (instead use original) and everything will work fine? Won’t that require a longer belt since the original pulley should be larger?
 
It worked for me - there are so many variables to the equation however that you'll just have to experiment and see what makes your voltage not drop. I had noticed over the course of a few months that my alternator slowly started putting out less and less at idle (causing the gauges to flicker) so that tipped me off on the alternator. A check w/ my voltmeter showed it was putting out almost a volt less than it was last time I had checked.

The tensioner will take up the slack for the change in pulley size.

You will lose some of the "effect" of the underdrives by doing this but it's one of the tradeoffs you make.

Wes