where to get wiring quick disconnects?

xoxbxfx

Founding Member
May 9, 2001
3,959
0
0
Southlake, TX
Anyone know where to get some wiring disconnects? I have been wiring in an EFI harness and it would be really nice to have some connectors to unplug sections of the harness instead of splicing and soldering and having a permanent thing.
Local parts places have some weatherproof 6 pin connectors but they suck and are a pain to pull apart. There has to be someone that sells connectors that can be wired in to easily pull apart. Ford has ones from 2 pins to 40pins or more.


Anyone?
 
I used GM's "WeatherPak" connectors for my Megasquirt EFI conversion and am really happy with them. They are weatherproof, built to handle automotive use, and are simple to use. Only problem is that the connectors seem to be a little large.

I ordered a connector kit for $69 from:
https://www.casperselectronics.com/...n=PROD&Product_Code=103005&Category_Code=conn


Here's what the kit looked like when I opened it:
attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • WeatherPak Connectors resized.webp
    WeatherPak Connectors resized.webp
    54.3 KB · Views: 293
Here's what the connectors look like. In this example you can see the male 3pin connector I made using the kit. The female connector is for the TPS sensor in the holley throttle body I'm using.

Holley also uses GM Weatherpak connectors.

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • WeatherPak Connectors (1) resized.webp
    WeatherPak Connectors (1) resized.webp
    52.4 KB · Views: 298
They make more than 4 pin connectors, just not in the kit. I personally have a 5 pin connector and have seen 6pin. Tho I would think 8 pin is probably the largest out there. The weatherpack connectors were built with up to a 12ga wire/connection in mind.

I've found that the need for anything more than a 4 pin is pretty rare unless your looking at disconnecting the main harness.

The megasquirt forums at www.msefi.com would be a great place to ask this question.
 
I plan on doing something similar on my 67 FB. I'm planning on putting a EFI 351W in the car and I want to put bulkhead connectors on the firewall so all I have to do is disconnect the engine harnesses right at the firewall. Something I learned while working on F-15 fighters. So if you know anyone in the military that might be able to scrounge you some of these bulkhead connectors and the connectors that connect to them you would be good to go. I'm also tinkering with the idea to use circuit breakers instead of fuses too. Breaker pops...
... Push it to Reset!
 


Hey, those are neat, I think ford uses the Deutsch style (or used to) on some applications. I have some from a junkyard that look a lot like that. I wonder how high you can go on the current for each pin...


msd-8186_w.webp


I look through Summit all the time and still, there's more and more I don't realize is out there...

Cool, Thanks :SNSign:
 

Attachments

  • msd-8186_w.webp
    msd-8186_w.webp
    12.4 KB · Views: 144
Hey, those are neat, I think ford uses the Deutsch style (or used to) on some applications. I have some from a junkyard that look a lot like that. I wonder how high you can go on the current for each pin...


msd-8186_w.webp


I look through Summit all the time and still, there's more and more I don't realize is out there...

Cool, Thanks :SNSign:


those are perfect...thanks HUEYPILOT for the recommendation. Just to let you guys know, I believe those crimp ends take special crimpers ton crimp them because they are so small. Im going to pick a couple up. I did find a place that sells the crimp ends that fit into the OEM fittings if you guys ever need. Im thinking buying a ton of new pins and junkyard for the fittings will be way cheaper.
 

Attachments

  • msd-8186_w.webp
    msd-8186_w.webp
    12.4 KB · Views: 139
I use those connectors on all my vehicles. I solder the pins to the wires for the strongest connection by wraping the crimped part around the bare end of the wire (with just pliers) to hold it in place so it makes it easier to solder. You can easily take them back apart w/o any special tools like pin pushers or extractors that are required on the Military type "cannon plugs". I don't recall the amp rating for these connectors but I have used them in rear brake lights and electric fans with no issues.
 
I use those connectors on all my vehicles. I solder the pins to the wires for the strongest connection by wraping the crimped part around the bare end of the wire (with just pliers) to hold it in place so it makes it easier to solder. You can easily take them back apart w/o any special tools like pin pushers or extractors that are required on the Military type "cannon plugs". I don't recall the amp rating for these connectors but I have used them in rear brake lights and electric fans with no issues.

In the summit listing, it says the connectors accept up to a 16ga wire. That's only about 10amps. Enough for brake lights, but not an electric fan. Maybe you can squeeze a 14ga wire in there, but then you're still only good to 20amps max.
 
In the summit listing, it says the connectors accept up to a 16ga wire. That's only about 10amps. Enough for brake lights, but not an electric fan. Maybe you can squeeze a 14ga wire in there, but then you're still only good to 20amps max.

20 amps will run just about everything other than an electric fan... I need them for the whole steering column, gauge cluster...etc...
 
20 amps will run just about everything other than an electric fan... I need them for the whole steering column, gauge cluster...etc...

Yes and No....

Remeber that you can only run 20amps if you use 14ga wire tho...I don't know if it would be possible to do that. You might be forced to use 16ga or smaller.

If you are indeed limited to 16ga, you may have problems.

Also remember that in normal automotive wiring, you don't have a seperate wire that goes to the fuse block/ground for each electrical accessory. Most accessories share a circuit.

Look at the fuses in your vehicle. I think you'll find a lot of them are 15amps or higher.