Need help installing 4:30 gear on a 98 cobra

tmoneyballin

New Member
Aug 16, 2006
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Suwanee, GA
I'll be totally honest, I am not a "gear head" I had 3 of my buddies over to replace the 410 gears with 430's. My friend, who seems to know the most about installing gears admits he "should have" paid a little more attention to the setup when he removed it - meaning we are having trouble putting it back together.

Couple questions:
First off do you guys have any website links to install details/diagrams/pictures ... the mustang book is not too helpful if you know what I mean...

Is the 410 pinion gear resuable with the 430( we have the new pinion with the 430 but my buddies insist it's the same and we can reuse the original for convenience) and not mess with the new one?

When all the gears are put together with the S clamp(which we still aren't sure we are installing correctly because it seems like a B*%*& to get in and locks up gears when it does) are there any gears that aren't supposed to spin( I am talking we are not installing the assembly inside the pumpkin yet so if we inserted an axle and tried to rotate it - should the gear assembly rotate? or is it supposed to be locked?

Any other advice for how the S clamp is supposed to be installed(what gears need to be already in position, like the pinion shaft(which seems to hold the gears in place(alligned) before you put the S clamp in, but it doesn't appear you can install the S clamp after you slide the pinon shaft through the setup...)
We have heard conflicting advice in regard to which gears are supposed to spin and which are not....

Any other pointers or direction will be VERY helpful, my buddies are planning on riding out to a shop or two and getting some better direction, but I figured I would try and help them with homework...it's very hard to find a quality, detailed description of this specific rear end install....

THANKS! Please contribute what you can it will be GREATLY appreciated.:hail2:
 
You most definitely need to change the pinion out with the ring gear. That's probably your problem with being unable to turn the ring; the gears aren't matching and don't want to turn. Of course taking out the pinion is a whole different story, and you're definitely going to have fun with that one...

Remember, the ring and pinion is not a place to be cutting corners. It's an extremely fast moving gearset and needs to be done with the utmost care.

You should be able to move the ring gear and have the pinion move with it. If you still have the driveshaft connected to the pinion, however, it will be pretty difficult (see nigh impossible) to move the assembly. I'd try disconnecting the driveshaft from the pinion (don't take it out of the trans though! Unless you plan on doing a trans flush with it :P ) and seeing if it will rotate freely. That is also a good time to check backlash. Ask if you have any other questions on it :)
 
I'll be totally honest, I am not a "gear head" I had 3 of my buddies over to replace the 410 gears with 430's. My friend, who seems to know the most about installing gears admits he "should have" paid a little more attention to the setup when he removed it - meaning we are having trouble putting it back together.

Couple questions:
First off do you guys have any website links to install details/diagrams/pictures ... the mustang book is not too helpful if you know what I mean...

Is the 410 pinion gear resuable with the 430( we have the new pinion with the 430 but my buddies insist it's the same and we can reuse the original for convenience) and not mess with the new one?

When all the gears are put together with the S clamp(which we still aren't sure we are installing correctly because it seems like a B*%*& to get in and locks up gears when it does) are there any gears that aren't supposed to spin( I am talking we are not installing the assembly inside the pumpkin yet so if we inserted an axle and tried to rotate it - should the gear assembly rotate? or is it supposed to be locked?

Any other advice for how the S clamp is supposed to be installed(what gears need to be already in position, like the pinion shaft(which seems to hold the gears in place(alligned) before you put the S clamp in, but it doesn't appear you can install the S clamp after you slide the pinon shaft through the setup...)
We have heard conflicting advice in regard to which gears are supposed to spin and which are not....

Any other pointers or direction will be VERY helpful, my buddies are planning on riding out to a shop or two and getting some better direction, but I figured I would try and help them with homework...it's very hard to find a quality, detailed description of this specific rear end install....

THANKS! Please contribute what you can it will be GREATLY appreciated.:hail2:

I woulnt use the old pinion if it was the same.. then you would have an old gear running on a new gear... just replace em both..

you shouldnt of had to take out the S spring to do a ring and pinion but if you did, you just need a BFH and pound it in there.. you will be able to tell on the S spring where its supposed to line up.. the pinion shaft is the last thing that you would install... all 4 spider gears need to be in and aligned... slide the pin in after the spiders are in place to see that everything lines up then pull it out and pound in the s spring....

hope this helps... from the sound of it, i think you should check everything over a few times to make sure you got it all...

also this is a good time to rebuild the trac loc since you have it this far apart already
 
A 4.10:1 to should have 10 teeth on the pinion and 41 teeth on the ring gear. A 4.30:1 to should have 10 teeth on the pinion and 43 teeth on the ring gear. The ring gears are the same size so to get 43 teeth in place of 41 teeth they have to be smaller. The teeth on the pinion have to match the teeth on the ring gear. USE the 4.30 pinion. Also the ring and pinion are seated to each other during the manufacturing process.
 
NICE, Thanks for the response! I have good friends- they are at my house as we speak putting the gears in, while I sit stuck in corporate america! I called them and read your posts and they said "yeah, we're good" so somewhere along the way today somebody gave them the heads up about using the new pinion because they said they had switched it out now. Also they took it to where we bought the gear and the guy said it was put together correctly. He said it would be very difficult to turn with the axles and more realistically you can budge them with the rims when it is on the car...or something along that line...

I guess the only other advice, which could be common sense, would be how do you know you have set/bolted everything before you close up the pumpkin? I am sure they know, but clearly you guys out there do have some knowledge of this as well and it always helps to hear somebody else's interpretation.


Thanks again, hopefully we are good, but feel free to still comment!
 
To know that the set up is right, you will have to check backlash with a dial indicator and check the pattern by brushing on white gear pattern paste. White grease can substitute for the paste.

Find the backlash spec and check the backlash. Do this by locking the pinion and wiggling the ring gear back and forth with the dial indicator measuring it's movement. If the backlash is okay, check the pattern. You will need a book with pictures of a correct pattern. The book will also have instructions for where to move the shims according to the appearance of the pattern.

Once the pattern looks good AND the backlash is correct, use a new crush ring and torque the pinion nut until you have the proper preload torque as measured with a beam or dial in/lb. torque wrench.
 
So my friends go to take the bearing or whatever they needed out of the old pinion gear and couldn't get it out, took it to two shops and they both said they had never seen resistance like this before and said surely the pinion gear was about to lock up and cause SERIOUS problems! If this is the case I am glad I replaced the 410's that "looked" perfect! Developing....
 
So my friends go to take the bearing or whatever they needed out of the old pinion gear and couldn't get it out, took it to two shops and they both said they had never seen resistance like this before and said surely the pinion gear was about to lock up and cause SERIOUS problems! If this is the case I am glad I replaced the 410's that "looked" perfect! Developing....

This is the pinion that they did not want to change? As forum155pl said "your using a new bearing right?" Also as MBDiagMan said "use a new crush ring"
 
Yeah its funny all three of my friends and a couple "know it alls" we called on the phone all said use the original pinion, I was the only clown that said screw that use the new one! Yeah new bearings and crush rings! I am going to school for like half a class and then I am dipping out to help them because I want to get this **** done so I can start stomping 'Vette's!!! I appreciate all the input guys, like I said I like to keep my boyz in check when they start removing my ENTIRE rear end!