This is an extremely simple R&R, just take your time. The book calls for 4.2 hours, but that also includes several things that are unnecessary like pulling the alternator. You can do it yourself in less than that. Like Randy mentioned, it would be a good idea to replace the intake manifold gaskets.
I'm sure you can search and find a full write-up online, but I will try to give you as many pointers as I can remember off the top of my head.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Take note of where all the vacuum lines/hoses go when you disconnect them. Be careful with the small EGR differential vacuum hoses back by the driver's side firewall.
3. You do not need a fuel line disconnect tool, just gently pull the fuel rails off the injectors leaving the injectors in the intake manifold, then just lay the fuel rails over to the passenger side.
4. Instead of unbolting the EGR feed pipe from the EGR solenoid, just unbolt the two 10mm bolts holding the actual EGR housing to the plenum. It’s much easier that way when you go to install the new intake.
5. When I mentioned above leaving the injectors in the intake, this makes swapping over the injectors to the new intake easier and ensures that you keep the injectors on the same cylinder they came from. It’s important to keep the coils and injectors on the same cylinders. You can just leave the COP’s (coil on plugs) attached to the intake as well then swap them once you have the original intake removed. The COP’s are retained by a 7mm bolt.
6. Check the injector o-rings. If they look dried or cracked, replace them. Always dab a little bit of clean silicon around the injector o-rings when you go to re-seat the injectors in the intake and fuel rails.
7. You’ll find it very helpful to have a friend hold aside the wire harness and EGR feed pipe when you are ready to pull the intake. Contrary to most service manuals you DO NOT need to remove the alternator. You can either get the specific alternator bracket to bolt to the updated intake manifold, or you can simply drill two new holes in the existing bracket. The alternator is bolted firmly to the block, the alternator upper bracket is just there more for safety rather than function.
8. Once you have the intake manifold off, clean the intake manifold/cylinder head mating surface very well making sure not to get and large debris in the intake runners. Wipe down the mating surface with some carb/brake cleaner.
9. This would be a good time to change your spark plugs, PCV valve, and thermostat while you’re there.
10. When you go to install the new intake manifold, make sure that all the injector and coil pigtail connectors are out of the way before you tighten down the intake. I’ve seen lots of people crush those connectors.
I think all the rest is fairly obvious and pretty straightforward. Just take your time and don’t rush yourself.
Here are the important torque specs and tightening orders:
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