Wierd Ignition problem

[Willicuddy]

Ok so my car (95 GT) has been having this problem for a little while and seems to just be getting worse. Sometimes I would start the car up and everything would seem fine, it would drive fine, no hesitation or missing, and other times it would buck and miss like crazy.

Its got the the point where I can barely drive the thing. Also when I'm at idle, like waiting for a light or coasting down the driveway, the car will just cut out and stall. After it stalls it has NO problem starting back up, but if it idles for too long it will stall again and again.

The car is not pulling any codes, I even took it to Ford and they couldn't diagnose the problem (only spent 3 hours on it, but thats when I pulled the plug on them).

They said that it could be the stator, but they are not 100% sure and they can't guarantee that replacing it will fix it. They also keep on asking me if the car has been chipped, and I have no idea and neither did the previous owner.

Parts that have been replaced recently: Plug wires, fuel pump, ignition coil, cap, rotor, plugs and fuel filter about 18k kms ago.

Ford's diagnoses was:

Report for vehicle running rough
Stalling (can start up right away) at idle.
Road test
Spits and Sputters
NGS Self tests pass
PID data fuel pressure test: 32 psi
Sample check okay
Power balance spark duration
Erratic ignition system: System test
Spark duration and advance dropping off
Timing check 10 degrees try new coil, cap, rotor
Repair wiring to ignition coil
Same check plugs
Possible ignition problem

 

[m0l0]

That are the tipical simptoms of a PIP ( Stator ) going south , also for peace of mind check the TFI module , but i bet is the stator.


Same stuff here a long time ago, no codes no nothing but stator was the cause.

Actually u can make a quick test when the car stalls and it will not start again after like 5 mins , go to the Dist. Cap , Open it , blow air to the sensor for a minute , and then u will be good to go again, its a simptom of the stator heating and since is bad it will fail more with the heat.

 

[HISSIN50]

As I read your post, PIP also came to the front of my peabrain.

You really need to figure out why the puter won't puke codes. I'd chase the wiring (checking continuity in the self-test connector wiring to the computer and ground pathways).

One other thought for a random miss issue (we'd need more info to know if this could apply) is that the EGR is getting stuck open (either mechanically or due to a leaking EVR). At idle for instance, the car would run like crap with inert gasses being unknowingly introduced.

I do something similar to M0l0 but I use electrical contact spray to douche the PIP components. The spray has a real nice cooling effect and cleans debris away from the trigger points.

Good luck.

 

[Willicuddy]

The weird thing is that it doesn't matter what temp the car is when it starts to act up. It could be snowing outside and the first time i start my car in a couple of days and it will start to miss/bog, or it could be in the sun and the car completely warmed up and it will run fine.

 

[Willicuddy]

Actually u can make a quick test when the car stalls and it will not start again after like 5 mins , go to the Dist. Cap , Open it , blow air to the sensor for a minute , and then u will be good to go again, its a simptom of the stator heating and since is bad it will fail more with the heat.

The car always starts up after it stalls, without any issues, if it was a bad PIP or TFI it would have some problems starting back up wouldn't it?

 

[HISSIN50]

You're generalization is correct - most of the time the TFI or PIP failures are heat-induced, so a cool down period is requisite. I just re-read your opening post since we're narrowing things down. Does this only happen while the car is at idle? If so, it could simply be an idle adjustment issue.

A bad ignition switch can also cause an issue like this (the switch = the electrical connector, not the lock cylinder. It's a common source of confusion). However, this would very likely happen while the car is at speed, not just while idling.

Good luck.

 

[Willicuddy]

The stalling only happens at idle.

The missing/bogging happens at idle/crusing/load.

Is the ignition switch on the shaft of the dizzy?

 

[HISSIN50]

The stalling only happens at idle.

The missing/bogging happens at idle/crusing/load.

Is the ignition switch on the shaft of the dizzy?

The ignition switch is under the steering column.

You might find that it's two separate issues. If this happens regularily, viewing some PIDs could really help (if you have a friend with a code scanner [not code reader]). Most scanners can see real-time data streams and datalog when an issue starts.

To toss more crap against the wall: We have intermittant stalling at idle and intermittant lackluster performance. An EGR that's sticking (either mechanically or due to a leaky EVR) can cause both of these.............

Not having any codes to go off of, and rather broad symptoms (no fault of your own - intermittant issues suck) makes it tough. I try to just throw out suggestions for yourself and others to review since you're more intimate with the issue than I/we are.

Good luck.