Distributor wont come out, new motor, help!!

Yellowpnoy

New Member
Feb 6, 2006
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Guys, i have a big problem. I built a dart block 427w. I purchased the short block already built and had them install and degree a cam. The first question is, they never installed a thrust plate on the cam, is there supposed to be a thrust plate on it? The cam had some play in it and i never questioned it because they were a reputable builder. I put about 20 miles on the car and started to hear a squeak coming from the front of the car, i thought maybe it was a rocker, but it turns out it wasnt. This is a hydraulic roller setup. I used a Melling high volume oil pump on the car with an ARP shaft and MSD billet distributor with the steel gear. I removed the belt thinking it was one of the accessories squeaking. When i started the car it still squeaked, as i was walking back to shut the car off i hear a loud pop and as soon as i heard the noise i looked at the oil pressure = 0!! I immediately shut it off and it didnt run for more than a second. Here is my real problem, if i turn the motor over slowly by hand, the distributor shaft spins. Also, the dist. housing turns freely, but i CAN NOT remove the distributor. Its like its frozen in place and i cant pull it out. What the hell would cause this? Also, the dist. is HOT, and it still is and the motor has been off for about an hour. I am dumbfounded and hopefully my brand new motor isnt destroyed, if anyone know what could possibly be wrong, please share your knowledge.

Anthony
 
really not to hijack but im having the EXACT same prob with my distributor, it WILL not move freely i have to have 4 mustangs guys scratch their heads and beat it with a chisel to adjust my timing. its ridiculous, everyone tells me they've never seen anything like it before. Its like its frozen in the motor. anyways sorry im of no help, lets see if someone else chimes in
 
perhaps you could remover your timing chain cover and the chain then the cam gear and the retainer and move the cam a little to get the dizzy out. I have not heard of this either. You did remove the distributor retaining clip didn't you?
 
Check the cam. It may have walked out enough to cause the dizzy gear to bind. Also when you get the dizzy out check the gear depth on the dizzy. Also check cam end play, too much it will bind the dizzy.

Allen
 
I have never heard of this either, and most are stumped. I talked to a tech at comp cams and they think that most of the problem stems from the cam not having a thrust plate and extensive endplay on the cam. I am kinda thinking that the screeching sound was from the bearings on the distributor, or the distributor gear getting chewed apart. I am gonna pull the timing cover off tonight and see whats in there. It has an ARP oil pump driveshaft, i cant imagine that it broke, but its just so weird that the housing turns freely but wont come out of the hole, i am stumped, i guess i am gonna have to wait and see what i find behind the timing cover.
 
Many years ago I once worked at a gas station and there was a tool that'd remove stuck distributors. It had a claw-type end that'd fit under the distributor and a slide hammer at the other end so you'ld just use that and tap it upwards until the distributor would come out. I'm not sure where you'ld get one today, maybe a tool distributor like Snap-On, Mac or Matco?

Hope you engine's OK otherwize.
 
I have had to use the slam hammer to get dizzy out before.I don't see how your motor doesn't have a thrust plate.The dizzy i have in my car came from advance auto,I have to keep turning it and pull up on it to get it to come out.Its a pain in the a**.
 
I have had to use the slam hammer to get dizzy out before.I don't see how your motor doesn't have a thrust plate.The dizzy i have in my car came from advance auto,I have to keep turning it and pull up on it to get it to come out.Its a pain in the a**.


The thrust plate keeps the cam end play in check. Too much end play can damage dizzys and lifters.
 
Well, didnt need an 8lb sledge, needed a 2 foot crow bar to get the damn thing out! The screeching noise that i heard, was the oil pump...and the pop that i heard, was the ARP OIL PUMP SHAFT breaking off inside the distributor shaft. It sheared it right off, and to boot, it cracked my distributor shaft. I dont know how this happened or why it happened is beyond me. I have to pull the motor this weekend to change everything out, this sucks. The reason the distributor was so hard to pull out was because it cracked the shaft and was causing it to bind on the hole in the block where it passes through. I am guessing that the oil pump locked up and caused the shaft to break. Its a melling high volume oil pump with a canton 7 quart oil pan and pickup. I am not going to put a high volume pump back on the car and stick with a standard pump and go with a blueprinted one this time and another ARP shaft. Just figured i would let you guys know, i hope this doesnt happen to anyone else. I have some pics.
 

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I think someone just told me what the problem was on another board. I never cut the shaft to length. It pushed on the housing after i bolted the pump and distributor down and wouldnt allow proper lubrication. Oh well, live and learn i guess!

Anthony