Mustang Lesson/DYNO RESULTS

Dusstbuster

I love meat more than anything! I just have a spec
May 31, 2004
1,462
33
64
Moorhead, Minnesota
This thread serves 2 purposes...

1) Never buy an NPI Mustang w/ an Auto

2) ALWAYS make sure your MAF is clean, especially after doing PI cams and manifold.




Longer story: Finally got the car put on a Dyno yesterday to see what everything in my sig would net. We put the car up on the Dyno and did a quick run and ran into problems...it was saying the car was at 150HP and the graph wasn't the normal curve, it was really jagged and stuff. We narrowed it down to the MAF (Preventative Maintenance is a must on your MAF, clean it yearly) and my AFR was reading ~16. Of course, like everything involving my car, one of the tamper proof screws holding it in was corroded/rusted so we couldn't get it off. We pulled my car of the Dyno so he could tune other peoples cars while we got the damn thing taken apart. We finally got it off and it had a TON of gunk on it, the guy cleaned it up and then we were able to throw the beast back up on the Dyno. He ran it without the chip (stock ECU) once and I pegged the dyno, but not in the good way.

My AFR was 18+!!! He's like "your car should have blown up 2 weeks ago". No wonder my gas mileage was so good. After 6 pulls we finally got to about as good as it was going to get. He tweaked the timing to 28* got the AFR down to a much more acceptable range, as well as tweaking the tranny's shifts. I originally told him not to do that as I would do the J-mod but I caved and just let him tweak it with the tuner. I'd still say do the JMod but whatever. Without further ado, here is my proof of the fact that you should never buy NPI + Auto and that Dyno tuning or at least tuning w/ an AFR reader is a must.

Dyno.webp


:nonono: :nonono: :nonono:
At least it feels a ton better...
 
i think im gunna cry:(
Were the MAF bolts really that hard to get off? Did you use a T20/R Torx socket? I took mine off yesterday and it looked shiney clean, and i havent taken it off in 3 years. You talking simply about the plastic modual MAF that bolts into the air channel right and not the whole channel?
 
The plastic part that has the sensor on it, w/ the 2 tamper proof bolts. One was corroded on. It was so corroded we couldn't get the sockets in there, we had to use vice grips and a file/standard screw driver.
 
It wouldn't fit because it had corroded so much. It was basically a screw with a dome top, nothing to fit a screwdriver on or whatever. We were limited on the tools we had available which was another reason we had to ghetto remove it.
 
yeah, hmm. I used the correct torx socket and they came right off

Your car is a california car so you don't even know what rust is. LOL

Some times even if you have the right tool they won't come out. Any time you work on a car up here in the north rust is going to be a problem.. Personally I find new england cars to be the worst. We have rapid temprature changes durring the winter so one day your on snow and the next week your driving on salt water.

A few weeks back I worked on a truck from south carolina. It was a 1996 ranger and it was less rusted than a 3 year old massachusetts truck, it was simply amazing seeing bolts come out with no problems
 
Dont feel TOO bad...one guy on here made like 215RWHP with his auto PI GT. 204 seems low, but I think there is still some left in your tune also....your A/F could stand to be a little leaner. You look to be at around 12.5-1 up top.
 
Dont feel TOO bad...one guy on here made like 215RWHP with his auto PI GT. 204 seems low, but I think there is still some left in your tune also....your A/F could stand to be a little leaner. You look to be at around 12.5-1 up top.

When you say PI do you mean PI swap w/ heads or PI 99+? If that's so then maybe the numbers aren't too far off...10hp for pi heads due to compression would put me at 215 and PI from the get go would be around 215 as well. Hmmm. Either way it's time to really start saving for that Terminator.
I must say I was liking the gas mileage I was getting back with the 18+ A/F. It's still decent, 248 miles right now with around 1/4 tank left. I filled up after getting it dyno'd and even after 6-7 pulls on it I still averaged 20.3MPG on 91/87 mix.

What else could I do that would be affordable and give decent gains? A 70mm throttle body/plenum from Trickflow doesn't seem worth it and everything else costs more than that even...
 
When you say PI do you mean PI swap w/ heads or PI 99+? If that's so then maybe the numbers aren't too far off...10hp for pi heads due to compression would put me at 215 and PI from the get go would be around 215 as well. Hmmm. Either way it's time to really start saving for that Terminator.
I must say I was liking the gas mileage I was getting back with the 18+ A/F. It's still decent, 248 miles right now with around 1/4 tank left. I filled up after getting it dyno'd and even after 6-7 pulls on it I still averaged 20.3MPG on 91/87 mix.

What else could I do that would be affordable and give decent gains? A 70mm throttle body/plenum from Trickflow doesn't seem worth it and everything else costs more than that even...

200X mustang Gt auto. So 99+ .
Its that guy that now has teh KB 1.7 and is upgrading to the 2.6H or whatnot. I believe his name is Gary but not toally sure on his screen name. Something like
02laserred2v. Its the red one with cobra bumper.
 
200X mustang Gt auto. So 99+ .
Its that guy that now has teh KB 1.7 and is upgrading to the 2.6H or whatnot. I believe his name is Gary but not toally sure on his screen name. Something like
laserredGT. Its the red one with cobra bumper.

So they aren't too far off then I guess. Either way, I want more power but I'm sick of wasting money on this car so I'll probably just quit modding this for now and save up for the Kewbra.