Help. Intake manifold swap gone bad.

[94superstang]

The "point" of the thermo is pointing towards the radiator right? Just a dumb question.

Yeah with the spring going inside the intake. The only thing i don't understand is it was fine before the intake install. I used the stock thermo For a while and it was still doing the same thing. However i didn't burp the system so i'll try to change the thermo tommorow and see what happens. If it doesn't work i'll try and re wire the low speed fan because i don't think its coming on. Another weird thing i noticed is that my ac doesn't blow cold any more and the compressor clicks on for a second that clicks off. I musta have really messed something up.

 

[JJ95GTID]

Another weird thing i noticed is that my ac doesn't blow cold any more and the compressor clicks on for a second that clicks off. I musta have really messed something up.

This sounds like the High Pressure switch for the AC. Mine did the exact same thing. Replaced the switch and has worked ever since. You can check this by pulling the plug off the HP switch and jumping the two connectors on the plug itself. If the compressor stays on then the HP switch is bad. It is a cheap part to replace IIRC. Got mine at Autozone.

 

[JJ95GTID]

HP switch for A/C

It is the round silver thing that is screwed into the top of the black canister.

 

[94superstang]

This sounds like the High Pressure switch for the AC. Mine did the exact same thing. Replaced the switch and has worked ever since. You can check this by pulling the plug off the HP switch and jumping the two connectors on the plug itself. If the compressor stays on then the HP switch is bad. It is a cheap part to replace IIRC. Got mine at Autozone.

So unplug it and jump it. If it stays on the whole time the switch is bad. Right? Can I use a paperclip to jump it or should i make one out of wire and two male connectors.

 

[JJ95GTID]

So unplug it and jump it. If it stays on the whole time the switch is bad. Right? Can I use a paperclip to jump it or should i make one out of wire and two male connectors.

Just use a piece of wire to jump both sides of the plug.
Turn on the AC while car is running.
If the compressor comes on and stays on then the switch is bad.
Get a new one.

To install just unscrew the old HP switch.
You'll hear a pressure release because it is a Schrader valve that you are unscrewing.
Then screw on the new one and plug in the connector and your done.

 

[99FiveOh]

Just use a piece of wire to jump both sides of the plug.
Turn on the AC while car is running.
If the compressor comes on and stays on then the switch is bad.
Get a new one.

To install just unscrew the old HP switch.
You'll hear a pressure release because it is a Schrader valve that you are unscrewing.
Then screw on the new one and plug in the connector and your done.

Hold the phone there buddy... That switch is designed to turn the compressor off if the pressure gets too low on the low side of the system. That's why they call it a "low pressure cutoff switch" His system may be a little low on refridgerant causing the compressor to short cycle. Mine was doing this the other day, I added a can of 134-A and all was good again.

In my experiences, when the switch goes bad the compressor doesn't come on at all.

The jumper trick will only tell you if the compressor is working or not, or if there is a problem between the switch wiring and the compressor. The compressor will operate (if it is working) regardless of how much freon is in the system, if you jump that connecter. There are actually 2 switches on our cars, the low and a High pressure cutoff. Either one of these can shut the system down. If you add a can and it doesn't fix the problem, you may want get someone to put a gauge setup on it to see what the low side and high side are doing at the same time.

 

[JJ95GTID]

Hold the phone there buddy... That switch is designed to turn the compressor off if the pressure gets too low on the low side of the system. That's why they call it a "low pressure cutoff switch" His system may be a little low on refridgerant causing the compressor to short cycle. Mine was doing this the other day, I added a can of 134-A and all was good again.

In my experiences, when the switch goes bad the compressor doesn't come on at all.

The jumper trick will only tell you if the compressor is working or not, or if there is a problem between the switch wiring and the compressor. The compressor will operate (if it is working) regardless of how much freon is in the system, if you jump that connecter. There are actually 2 switches on our cars, the low and a High pressure cutoff. Either one of these can shut the system down. If you add a can and it doesn't fix the problem, you may want get someone to put a gauge setup on it to see what the low side and high side are doing at the same time.

I believe the black one on the canister is the high pressure switch. The green switch near the CCRM is the low pressure switch IIRC. When I got mine from Autozone the box said it was a high pressure switch. My green switch is still OEM.

Still though, checking the level of R134 is a good idea also.

 

[gcomfx.com]

Yeah with the spring going inside the intake. The only thing i don't understand is it was fine before the intake install. I used the stock thermo For a while and it was still doing the same thing. However i didn't burp the system so i'll try to change the thermo tommorow and see what happens. If it doesn't work i'll try and re wire the low speed fan because i don't think its coming on. Another weird thing i noticed is that my ac doesn't blow cold any more and the compressor clicks on for a second that clicks off. I musta have really messed something up.

Have you checked your plug on the fan? It could be shorted out, keeping the low speed from turning on.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=693978

 

[99FiveOh]

I believe the black one on the canister is the high pressure switch. The green switch near the CCRM is the low pressure switch IIRC. When I got mine from Autozone the box said it was a high pressure switch. My green switch is still OEM.

Still though, checking the level of R134 is a good idea also.

You are right, but backwards. The sensor on the accumulator is the low pressure cutoff, that part of the system is AFTER the orifice tube. The orific tube, or LIQUID LINE, is where refrigerant is pushed through via high pressure and thus becomes very cold. The green sensor is the high pressure, it is right after the condensor in the system where the pressure is still 200-250 PSI. The low side usually runs between 30-40 psi.

 

[94superstang]

I don't think im low in refirgerent because the guy i bout it from just rebuild the entire system compressor evaperator core and ect. But if it doesn't work i'll get some refirdegerent. But if i get refridgerent and try to ad some doesn't the ac compressor need to stay on to suck it up?

 

[gcomfx.com]

If someone JUST rebuilt it... it could have a leak.

 

[S351Saleen77]

Heres an old trick for thermostat install's so you don't get air in the system if it's been drained and you refill it.
I drill a small hole in the thermostat and place it on "top" when you install it, and it will let the air escape when it's closed. Then have the rad cap off as it warms up.

To hold the thermostat in place for the install I take a rubber band and loop it through and come out the front of the housing and put a pen or pencil to keep tension on it and hold it in place while you install it. Once it's on pull the pencil out and cut the rubber band and pull it out.

 

[94superstang]

So I changed the ect sensor and the thermo today. I drove it around the block and it still did the same thing. I get home go inside for a bit and come back out. I looked at my car and there was a huge leak. I opened the hood and noticed that it was leaking from the water pump. Now my water pump is bad. Do you think this was the problem the whole time? What could cause the water pump to go out?

 

[gcomfx.com]

You could be pressurizing the coolant system. That's not good. Cause if it gets too high, you'll end up busting the heater core. I've heard that's no fun to replace.

Just for ****zles, I would check the oil again to make sure there's no coolant in it.

 

[99FiveOh]

So I changed the ect sensor and the thermo today. I drove it around the block and it still did the same thing. I get home go inside for a bit and come back out. I looked at my car and there was a huge leak. I opened the hood and noticed that it was leaking from the water pump. Now my water pump is bad. Do you think this was the problem the whole time? What could cause the water pump to go out?

Running well water can cause them to go out, happened to me. Also just old age and wear and tear. I didn't remember seeing if you replaced it or not.

 

[94superstang]

No i haven't replaced it before. It still has the oem one. The car only has 52k miles on it. But i'll have to replace it. For now i'm going to by pass the heater so i don't blow it out. My heater went out on my other mustang and it cost me 475 to fix. So i def don't want to go out. I'm going to change it and flush the radiator to see if maybe some dirt or rust is clogging the system. And while i'm at it ill change the intake gasket to make sure its in right.

 

[gcomfx.com]

No i haven't replaced it before. It still has the oem one. The car only has 52k miles on it. But i'll have to replace it. For now i'm going to by pass the heater so i don't blow it out. My heater went out on my other mustang and it cost me 475 to fix. So i def don't want to go out. I'm going to change it and flush the radiator to see if maybe some dirt or rust is clogging the system. And while i'm at it ill change the intake gasket to make sure its in right.

Sounds like an excellent plan.

 

[99FiveOh]

Yup, even with low miles, the seals in the water pump are still 12 or so years old. It's usually age that wears seals out, not necessarily mileage. I'd say it is long over due for a water pump. I believe the mileage saved you from having to replace the water pump thus far!

 

[94superstang]

I just ordered it. It should be in tommorow. 76.99 for a new one W/ lifetime warrenty and no core charge.

 

[94superstang]

Well after looking a little closer its not the water pump. It coming from behind the balancer and its a constant drip. I think it might be the timing cover gasket. Is this hard to change? Should i try to do it myself. I can do the water pump with no problems.