AODE Limits

Is that REALLY YOU PauL????? :shock:

Havent seen you around forever..... My AODE has held up all this time. I was just wondering the general power limits, which it seems the concensus is 'hit or miss'

WIth the way YOU drive, I would say no!! :lol:

For me, maybe I will be fine? :shrug:
RC

LOL! Look who's talking? :D I have been extremely busy lately with work, my now mobile daughter, and trying to get the car back together.

I had my AODE car before my track/racing days. That's not to say I didn't run it, but it was never truely raced... it was too slow to. :p
 
so when i go to 4.10's i will need a chip to correct the shift points?? do i get one from a dyno tune? or are there off the shelf chips any help i would appreciate and sorry to kinda jack this thread :(

What are you starting with?

2.73s to 3.73s are okay.

3.08s to 4.10s are usually okay.

2.73s to 4.10s = better get ready for a chip.

At least that has been the pattern once you get past the narrow minded people posting. :D
 
so when i go to 4.10's i will need a chip to correct the shift points?? do i get one from a dyno tune? or are there off the shelf chips any help i would appreciate and sorry to kinda jack this thread :(
You can mod the valve body as per the intructions by jerry on TCCOA. With the mods, the tranny should shift fast enough for you not to hit the rev limiter on the 1-2 shift...

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/transmission/page13.shtml
 
Paul, is there puter calibration (from the factory) for the different rear gear options? Or maybe I just misread what you meant with the gear swap stuff. :shrug:
 
Anybody with questions about AODE/4r70w trannies needs to contact the Lasotas. Don seems to know a thing or two about them. ;)

From what I understand, the 4r70w from a 2000-2004 6 cylinder car will bolt right in. There are some electrical components that will need swapped over, but even the TC will work, according to him. I'm sure your aftermarket one would work, as well. The gear ratio's are a little different, so some tuning would also be necessary. When it comes time, I'm going to have him burn me a chip.

The lure of this tranny is that it will work properly when asked to channel up to 700 hp. Hard to believe that Ford would use that much tranny behind a 200 hp 6 cyl, but......

I'm trying to figure out if it's worth it to swap a 4r70w with a "perfectly" operating AODE.
 
Paul, is there puter calibration (from the factory) for the different rear gear options? Or maybe I just misread what you meant with the gear swap stuff. :shrug:

I don't think it's a computer difference, might ask Don about that one. But I've noticed over the years on here (I look out and read a lot of the AODE threads) that there was indeed a common factor when people would argue about 3.73s or 4.10s in our cars without a tune.

The common factor is going beyond a 1 in the swap.

2.73 - 3.73 = -1 :nice:

3.08 - 4.10 = -1.02 :nice:

2.73 - 4.10 = -1.37 :notnice:

As far as I'm concerned it's equally a computer controlled shifting point AND a rev limiter point. Those two factors equally effect each other in this situation.

No real data to support this, other than statements of years of stangnetters. The biggest problem with that is, who was correct about the gears they started with and who was not. :(
 
I don't think it's a computer difference, might ask Don about that one. But I've noticed over the years on here (I look out and read a lot of the AODE threads) that there was indeed a common factor when people would argue about 3.73s or 4.10s in our cars without a tune.

The common factor is going beyond a 1 in the swap.

2.73 - 3.73 = -1 :nice:

3.08 - 4.10 = -1.02 :nice:

2.73 - 4.10 = -1.37 :notnice:

As far as I'm concerned it's equally a computer controlled shifting point AND a rev limiter point. Those two factors equally effect each other in this situation.

No real data to support this, other than statements of years of stangnetters. The biggest problem with that is, who was correct about the gears they started with and who was not. :(
Paul, from my understanding, the shift points are the same, but the rpm at which the computer will send the signal is different for the different gear ratios.

Here's my logic:

The cars with different gear ratios wil accelerate at different speeds. The tranny does not shift the instant it receives the signal from the computer. It takes a certain amount of time for the clutches to fill up and, and the tranny to make the shift...Since the cars w/ higher (numerical) gears from the factory will accelerate faster, the computer will send the signal earlier, to acheive the shift at the same rpm.

Thats the reason that you noticed that cars that start out with a lower gear will not like the higher gears. The cars w/ 2.73's from the factory will get the signal to shift at a relatively high rpm compared to the cars with 3.27's. So when you swap to some high ass 4.10's, you car is accelerating so much faster, that the time it used to take for the tranny to start the shifting process is too long, and you end up hitting the rev limiter.
hope that makes sence...

*I'm gonna go reinstall my stock valve body with some of the jerry mods done to it today, ill let you know how that goes...
 
Paul, from my understanding, the shift points are the same, but the rpm at which the computer will send the signal is different for the different gear ratios.

Here's my logic:

The cars with different gear ratios wil accelerate at different speeds. The tranny does not shift the instant it receives the signal from the computer. It takes a certain amount of time for the clutches to fill up and, and the tranny to make the shift...Since the cars w/ higher (numerical) gears from the factory will accelerate faster, the computer will send the signal earlier, to acheive the shift at the same rpm.

Thats the reason that you noticed that cars that start out with a lower gear will not like the higher gears. The cars w/ 2.73's from the factory will get the signal to shift at a relatively high rpm compared to the cars with 3.27's. So when you swap to some high ass 4.10's, you car is accelerating so much faster, that the time it used to take for the tranny to start the shifting process is too long, and you end up hitting the rev limiter.
hope that makes sence...

*I'm gonna go reinstall my stock valve body with some of the jerry mods done to it today, ill let you know how that goes...

We should get everyone to post their computer serial numbers. :nice:

Good luck with the valve body. :D
 
Eddie and Paul, thanks for the info. That was exactly what I was wondering.

I only asked because if there was a difference in the loaded factory tune [per the gear], when folks go from something like 2.73's to 9.56's (or whatever everyone recommends :rlaugh: ) and they have an issue thereafter, we could recommend some given subsect of U/W puters.
 
Absolutely Hissin.... I'll post up my computer is:

EEC-IV W4H0
SMD-212A F4vF-12A650-BA 64DH212B32 9739 – 117 4B11

It came with 2.73 gears.

Mr. Bling - :D Mine is closer to being finished. How about you help me?
 
Paul, I'm kinda lost now. I was only asking if the puters were individually programmed for a given factory gear, and if so, how do we know what gears the puter was programmed for (a label, etc).

That way if when someone ended up slamming a limiter with 4.10's, we could say to find a W4HO or U4HO with "???" written on it, and that this should fix the issue.

Eddie, the number is on the flat side of the puter with some other crap and barcodes.
 
Paul, I'm kinda lost now. I was only asking if the puters were individually programmed for a given factory gear, and if so, how do we know what gears the puter was programmed for (a label, etc).

That way if when someone ended up slamming a limiter with 4.10's, we could say to find a W4HO or U4HO with "???" written on it, and that this should fix the issue.

Eddie, the number is on the flat side of the puter with some other crap and barcodes.

Sorry I asked :nonono:
 
Sorry I asked :nonono:



:shrug:

Was this because of the derailment? Is so, you have my apologies.

I was simply trying to track down further info on something which I may or may not have interpreted correctly. I did NOT think there was any sort of computer-calibration change for different factory gears but I wanted to find out in case I didn't know about something. I certainly don't have a vested interest but wanted to pursue the idea if it would help other fellow stangers in the future. I think it would really suck to go with the ubiquitious advice to get 4.10's and then find a tune is needed to keep from smacking the limiter.

Again, apologies for expanding upon this interesting (to me) tangent.