Who has the best disc conv. kit

[1967project]

I have a 67 coupe. Looking to do a disc conversion in the future. Has anyone out thier done a DIY vs a catalog purchase. If so, any pro's and cons of either? I do have power steering, and stock suspension for now.

Would it be better to do the suspension and then the swap or swap then suspension. I want to avoid purchasing duplicate parts.


Thanks.

 

[yeloxr7]

Best value (Granada swap): www.discbrakeswap.com.

I would do the suspension rebuild at the same time.

 

[12sec67]

best for the buck for stock 15" rim size is the granada swap. if you plan on larger rims then i would suggest the mustang steve cobra disc swap.

 

[mrmustangman357]

+1 for the mustang steve kit. he really does support his product better than any other manufacturer, and the stuff is good for replacement parts:

www.mustangsteve.com

 

[mikethebike]

I have a 67 coupe. Looking to do a disc conversion in the future. Has anyone out thier done a DIY vs a catalog purchase. If so, any pro's and cons of either? I do have power steering, and stock suspension for now.

Would it be better to do the suspension and then the swap or swap then suspension. I want to avoid purchasing duplicate parts.


Thanks.

Are you interested in a stock Kelsey-Hayes set-up? I'm looking to upgrade to Wilwood or Baer or Brembo. Let me know.

 

[1967project]

Are you interested in a stock Kelsey-Hayes set-up? I'm looking to upgrade to Wilwood or Baer or Brembo. Let me know.

Can you be more specific, are you selling one? Is their a site with the specs of what you have? (Kelsey-Hayes)

Thanks

 

[Sacramento6]

discbrakeswap.com is probably the best value. You can buy it from opentracker while you are there buying roller spring perches.

 

[mrmustangman357]

kelsey-hayes is the factory 4 piston disc brake that ford actually had on these cars. Yes, 65-66 mustangs with discs were actually 4 piston brakes, and they work very well and can fit a 14 inch wheel usually in them. stainless steel brakes and master power, among others, copy their design almost entirely in their base model brake kits, and they work great. stops better than my '89 5.0L

 

[mrmustangman357]

oh yea, another thing: THE downside to the stock 65-66 discs are the steel pistons - they corroded and seized up with the years. virtually all aftermarket companies use a stainless steel piston to eliminate the corrosion. just so you know

 

[1967project]

I noticed that it was stated that if your running bigger than a 15 inch rim, it is better go to with a mustang steve cobra swap, can someone please tell me why this is.

And, instead of running new brake hard line, it is possible to run hi pressure flexible brake line instead (from the porportioning valve), or is this a no-no?

Thanks.

 

[mikethebike]

oh yea, another thing: THE downside to the stock 65-66 discs are the steel pistons - they corroded and seized up with the years. virtually all aftermarket companies use a stainless steel piston to eliminate the corrosion. just so you know

Mine are stainless. Another way to address the corrosion problem was to use a coating of synthetic grease on the pistons under the dust boot to prevent water intrusion and trapped moisture. Just one more thng you learn if you live on the southern coast with 95% relative humidity 24/7.

 

[mikethebike]

I noticed that it was stated that if your running bigger than a 15 inch rim, it is better go to with a mustang steve cobra swap, can someone please tell me why this is.

And, instead of running new brake hard line, it is possible to run hi pressure flexible brake line instead (from the porportioning valve), or is this a no-no?

Thanks.

It isn't the rim size but the tire diameter in relation to the brake rotor size. If you ran a 14" rim with 305/75 tire the leverage of the tire aganist the brake would reduce the effectiveness of the brake. When you run say a 17" rim with a 35 aspect ratio tire to get the same diameter as your 14" rim and taller tire you increase the braking power because the caliper is closer to the edge of the tire and you get a larger swept area. To see a very good example of this, look at a Buell motorcycle front disc brake that is bolted to the outer rim vs. a conventional rotor bolted to the hub. He kept the same swept area as two rotors AND saved 8lbs. of unsprung weight!! On a motorcycle wheel!!! The guys who sell the fancy cut rotors for race replicas brag about saving 2 oz. or so with that special cut.
Anyway, that's the deal...you want to put as much brake as possible inside your wheel for the best performance. Money not with standing.

In answer to your 2nd ?....run the hard line. You should only run as much flex line as necessary.

 

[mustangdave]

For low price, I think you should check www.scarebird.com also.

 

[Scarebird]

Ours does two things well- it fits in all Ford 14" rims, and if you buy just the brackets, is quite affordable. Plus it is very easy to install and does not muff up the alignment.

 

[Helmantel]

I noticed that it was stated that if your running bigger than a 15 inch rim, it is better go to with a mustang steve cobra swap, can someone please tell me why this is.
Thanks.

It's just that bigger brakes (like the Cobra setup, with 13" rotors) offer improved braking performance. However, due to their size you need 17" wheels to make it all fit.

It isn't the rim size but the tire diameter in relation to the brake rotor size. If you ran a 14" rim with 305/75 tire the leverage of the tire aganist the brake would reduce the effectiveness of the brake. When you run say a 17" rim with a 35 aspect ratio tire to get the same diameter as your 14" rim and taller tire you increase the braking power because the caliper is closer to the edge of the tire and you get a larger swept area.

I understand what you mean, but most practical wheel/tire combos have about the same diameter (within an inch or so), so the leverage is about the same. I guess your point is that the larger the rim, the larger the rotor you can fit. Larger rotors give the caliper more leverage, which increases braking force.

 

[bnickel]

personally i'd do the www.discbrakeswap.com kit. all of the parts are included, calipers, rotors, spindles, bearings, seals, master cylinder and all of the small parts required for the swap as well. the other goos thing about it is you can run down to the corner parts store and get anything you need for it, if it ever comes time to replace anything.