Building an engine on a budget..

I had the unfortunate incident of breaking a valve spring, dropping a valve and destroying a piston, bending a connecting rod, and pushing out the cylinder wall of my block. In other words, I need a new block, valve and springs. I can get a replacement valve, no problem - already got the springs covered as well. As far as the engine goes, I'd like some opinions as to what I am considering.

Cobra crank (out of old motor, no damage)
Replacment Manley H beam rod (other 7 are fine, ordering 1 replacement)
CP forged pistons w/ 9cc dish & rings
Romeo 4.6L Iron block
Cometic head gaskets
DSS Main Support

This is going to run me roughly $1700, not including the new valve and springs, oil, spark plugs, and labor to fix my cylinder head, etc. I was considering an aluminum block but they are going for $1300 and I can't justify spending $1,000 more unless there was a significant difference between the aluminum and iron blocks. Thoughts?
 
Aluminum block is $1300.00?

I picked up an 01 Cobra Teksid block for $300.00 in perfect shape. (Please no one start the whole, "No Teksids in Cobras after 99" argument) I think you could find an aluminum block for a reasonable price if you look around. Mine weighs 75 lbs bare. Some say aluminum makes less HP because there is more vibration than an iron block. Some also say the aluminum will cause your under hood temp's to rise. I can't see that either claim would be of great enough proportion to even be noticeable, but I'm not an engineer and that again is all hear-say...

Good luck.
 
I think your going to spend alot more than your thinking. tack on another $500 just for gaskets for the rebuild. piston rings arent cheap either. new main and rod bearings, new main bolts and head bolts arent cheap either.

then go have your block cleaned/ honed. may as well get a valve job on your heads while theyre out. its cost me around $2000 rebuilding it with stock stuff (including the valve job/ port/ polish) so I don't see how this could end cheap for you. you should also throw in a new clutch while your at it.:nice:

truthfully if I had it to do over I'd have bought a used 4.6 with low miles for $1000 (theyre everywhere) and been driving it by now.
 
1. comes with piston rings, bearings and all hardware are new.
2. block is brand new and will be blueprinted by the engine builder
3. i have patriot stage 2 heads on there already
4. i have an auto with a p.i. torque converter

check my garage for mods :) stock block wouldn't last half a second.
 
truthfully if I had it to do over I'd have bought a used 4.6 with low miles for $1000 (theyre everywhere) and been driving it by now.

If your budget constrained, this is the route I would go as well. Over time you can buid and fix the current engine you have, taking your time with buying the right components and in the mean time enjoy your stang.
 
If your budget constrained, this is the route I would go as well. Over time you can buid and fix the current engine you have, taking your time with buying the right components and in the mean time enjoy your stang.

I think a stock motor would last about 5 minutes with his setup lol. I say go all out hehe and just go get a MMR 900 block. DONE.
 
I didn't even think about MMR - I checked out the site and it looks like they have some nice products. However, I already have all those internals and ARP hardware, it'd be like buying my own stuff again.

This time, I am keeping the stock bore because the cylinder wall was pushed out this last time, and I think it may be because the walls were bored out .035" making the wall thinner. While I will sacrifice some HP, I hope to make up in driveability and the water/methanol injection should overcompensate for any lost HP. The 492 RWHP run I had was w/o water/meth injection while maxing out my old fuel system. As you can see in the dyno graph, it's still making power at 6,000 RPM's but started to lean out due to lack of fuel. When I get this thing together I'll post some pics and dyno results w/ this new setup. Wish me luck, I think I'll need it :)


Also, this is the second time Crower high lift springs have failed on me - I plan on contacting Crower and notifying them of this. Doubtful they will do anything, but with less than 500 miles on the springs I think they'd last a bit longer. Obviously since this is the second time the Crower springs have broken, I'm going with a different kind. The engine shop already has them, I don't know the brand, but Hutter Racing is taking care of it for me.
 
Did the spring break, or did the valve just float? With that kind of boost, I'd think you'll need to know what the valve springs rating is at the installed height and at say .100" lift. Closing the valve is a bit more difficult at 15 psi.

I have to say that I would think the springs you've been using should have done the job. I'm interested in what Crower has to say.
 
The spring itself broke according to the shop the car is at. The springs are designed to be used with the Stage 3 blower cams from Crower (.612/.612 lift), coupled with the titanium retainers. However, like I said before, this is the 2nd time a spring has broken. Once I get the springs back from Hutter and I can take some pictures of the damage, I'll post it up here and I'd be happy to send it to Crower for them to investigate.
 
Thanks for the concern Mike. I am having a highly reputable engine and car builder about 30 minutes from my house take care of it. Hutter Racing builds engines for a number of professional race teams (Craftsman Truck Series, Hooters Pro Series, Speed World Challenge to name a few) and I've heard nothing but great things from the people who have taken their vehicles there.