Just hit 235 degrees yesterday :(

[dec322]

Overheating....this forum is loaded with it and I still can't nail down my problem.

I've got the following stuff installed:

New 180 degree thermostat.
Ford Racing radiator
New overflow tank (no cap yet)
Autometer electric gauges.

The car stays at 180 the entire time I drive it. The problem is when I stop for an extended amount of time....drive throughs, traffic jams, stop the car and run inside...the temp slowly inches up. Yesterday I stopped the car and was talking to someone when I smelled antifreeze. It boiled outside the overflow tank and my temps were at 235. When I drive the car the temps go back down to 180...slowly. I just had the a/c converted to R134 but this problem existed before the conversion.

I was wondering about the fan (stock belt driven fan) but after reading this morning I have changed my mind.

I'm also wondering about the cap because I can open it even when the system is hot and it won't pour out (kinda like no pressure). But I don't know because it cools fine until I stop for a long period of time.

Another thing is that the car was an auto but has been converted to a manual. The thing is that the guy I bought it from left the tranny cooler in front of the radiator. Is this needed (I don't know if the manual uses the cooler). If not I guess I could pull it and free up some more air going in.

This is a long thread but I'm trying to give all details up front.
Thanks guys.

 

[ShortThrow50]

Overheating....this forum is loaded with it and I still can't nail down my problem.

I've got the following stuff installed:

New 180 degree thermostat.
Ford Racing radiator
New overflow tank (no cap yet)
Autometer electric gauges.

The car stays at 180 the entire time I drive it. The problem is when I stop for an extended amount of time....drive throughs, traffic jams, stop the car and run inside...the temp slowly inches up. Yesterday I stopped the car and was talking to someone when I smelled antifreeze. It boiled outside the overflow tank and my temps were at 235. When I drive the car the temps go back down to 180...slowly. I just had the a/c converted to R134 but this problem existed before the conversion.

I was wondering about the fan (stock belt driven fan) but after reading this morning I have changed my mind.

I'm also wondering about the cap because I can open it even when the system is hot and it won't pour out (kinda like no pressure). But I don't know because it cools fine until I stop for a long period of time.

Another thing is that the car was an auto but has been converted to a manual. The thing is that the guy I bought it from left the tranny cooler in front of the radiator. Is this needed (I don't know if the manual uses the cooler). If not I guess I could pull it and free up some more air going in.

This is a long thread but I'm trying to give all details up front.
Thanks guys.

Look at my mods in my sig. I run stock fan and stock radiator as well and temp never goes over 180. Your problem lies with either the stock fan not engaging or your stock radiator is plugged up. FLushing it will not help. Dealers have a portable temp reader I beleive so they can determine a COLD spot in the radiator but I wouldnt even pay for that to be done. I would just buy a new radiator. I would first strat at the fan because you say it cools while driving which means that the air is being forced throught the radiator and when your sitting it heats up. So its either your radiator is JUNK or you need a new fan clutch. Next time your car is overheating, get out and take notice of your fan speed. When its hot and im sitting, you can hear my fan spinning pretty fast and blowing a lot of air.

 

[302RollinHard]

if it overheats only while stopped for extended periods, I would look at the fan/fan clutch. Your radiator can obviously reject enough heat as it does stay cool while driving, it just isn't getting enough air passed through while stopped.

 

[Maryland Stang]

Do you have the factory fan shroud?

 

[justabigkid]

I was wondering if this all might have started after a thermostat replacement. I only ask this because I work in a dodge dealer parts dept and we see it all the time where someone will put in an aftermarket thermostat and it does not have the necessary bleed off valve built in and the car will over heat. After they put in a factory one it runs fine. Just a suggestion.
Chris

 

[Tasandmnm]

I hada very similar problem and it ended up being the fan clutch. Go out to your car and see if you can easily spin the fan...if you can you need a new fan clutch. Easy 10 minute fix and my car stays nice and cool now.

 

[HISSIN50]

if it overheats only while stopped for extended periods, I would look at the fan/fan clutch. Your radiator can obviously reject enough heat as it does stay cool while driving, it just isn't getting enough air passed through while stopped.

My thoughts exactly.







Also, do something with the cap. Each PSI in the system raises the effective boiling point approximately 3*F. We use 16 PSI caps.

Dont bother doing anything with the trans cooler on ther radiator. Just cap the fittings off so crap doesnt go in there.
Good luck.

 

[dec322]

Man, you guys are awesome....unless the problem won't be fixed.

I'll check the fan clutch.

About the T-stat -- I've had this problem since I've owned the car...I just thought it was about the overflow bottle and the fact that it would throw the fluid on the ground.

About the fan shroud -- I'm not sure about it being the right or wrong size. It is freaking huge in my mind because I couldn't even fit the overflow bottle on the car like its supposed to go. I was wondering if the previous owner threw on a bigger fan and shroud when he put the new radiator on. I've got pics.

View attachment 375341

I have better pics after I rigged the overflow bottle in...temporary fix. I just need to save it on the computer...later.

 

[Maryland Stang]

I don't think that's the right shroud. It should look like this...

 

[dec322]

Where would yall buy the fan clutch from? I just left Advanced Auto and he sold me one for 29 bucks. The thing is that the fan he sold me is for "non-a/c" cars. The one for a/c cars is 71 bucks. This guy seems to think it doesn't matter.

Also, the box says that the if the bearing for the fan clutch is out then the bearing for the water pump is bad b/c they share the same shaft. Is this something I need to worry about?

 

[HISSIN50]

Losing a clutch bearing isnt too common. They generally lose silicone around the front hub, which affects their ability to lock-up.

If it gets hot where you're at or you have AC, you need either the HD unit or a SSP clutch. And when contemplating such a large clutch cost, it can be the time to do an E-fan/3G swap.

Good luck.

 

[dec322]

Losing a clutch bearing isnt too common. They generally lose silicone around the front hub, which affects their ability to lock-up.

If it gets hot where you're at or you have AC, you need either the HD unit or a SSP clutch. And when contemplating such a large clutch cost, it can be the time to do an E-fan/3G swap.

Good luck.

I've done the 3g swap but I thought I've read some where that you believe the stock cooling is good enough (clutch instead of E-fan). How much does the e-fan swap usually cost?

 

[patrickmx2]

First: Replace the CAP. No system will properly cool without a cap. To spare writing a book here on the science behind it make sure you use a 16lb cap.

Second. Both of my cars use a stock factory type 2 row. I have zero cooling problems with electric fans that are tuned to come on with the EEC at 218 or when the A/C is on. I've never known them to come on while moving. I datalog the cars and they only see 220 on full throttle 1/4 mile passes while in motion. Or on top end romps with an occasional LS1 war.

I'm running 190 degree thermostats in both my daily driver and my DSS331 crate motor. Simply put if I remove my cap for filling (I just assembled my 331 car) I have to manually cool the radiator with a hose until I get the CAP back on to build pressure. Otherwise it will climb to 220 at idle while I'm observing the circulation and bubbles on a full radiator. So start with a new 16lb cap.

 

[HISSIN50]

I've done the 3g swap but I thought I've read some where that you believe the stock cooling is good enough (clutch instead of E-fan). How much does the e-fan swap usually cost?

A solid fan clutch and a fan blade in good shape move some serious air. However, the mere principle of how a mech fan works and when it is needed most is kinda inefficient (you need it at idle, when the engine spins the slowest). An E-fan is a solid upgrade and if it won't cost much more than renewing the mechanical components, why not (this is coming from someone who still runs a HD mech set-up on one stang and rather likes it. The E-fan is still better).

The best fans IMHO are OEM fans. They're made by Tier one companies most of the time and made to last over 100K miles. You can score a decent one for under 50 bucks pretty easily (and some get them for much less if they have a decent pick-a-fart yard close by).