5 Lug Swap, Eibach Pro: Before and After
- Thread starter 67coupe
- Start date
iwashmycar
20+ Year Stangneter 
Kabuki_notch
Founding Member
Thanks for the comments. I was on the fence for the longest time. Didn't know whether to buy a new car or build this one. You can see what choice I made.
Can't wait to get new track times after intake install. When removing the stock intake I discovered the dist bolt was loose.
Timing was around 8 BTDC. Hoping to run btw 8.5 and 8.7 in the 1/8 on street tires.
Next will be new tranny.
Can't wait to get new track times after intake install. When removing the stock intake I discovered the dist bolt was loose.
Timing was around 8 BTDC. Hoping to run btw 8.5 and 8.7 in the 1/8 on street tires.Next will be new tranny.
SuperStang83
Founding Member
onefstsnake
New Member
MustangLX-5.0
Founding Member
Yeah looks good.I'm in the middle of STILL trying to get the new front springs in.See my post in the tech forum about just how much trouble I've been having.How long did it take you to put those fronts in?And what method did you use?
As for the 5 lug + rear disc conversion,how does one go about "Affording" such a task? It's $1200+ for a disc conversion kit.
As for the 5 lug + rear disc conversion,how does one go about "Affording" such a task? It's $1200+ for a disc conversion kit.
Or 2300.00+ for the M-2300-k brake kit like i bought! You gotta save all your pennies
How does it run now? I have a 70mm T-body and EGR Spacer. I was thinking of installing it, along with some sort of intake, but honestly, I want to keep my notchback stock as possible...(engine wise) I don't mind my current mods, as I have all my old parts.
MustangLX-5.0 -
I used a compressor and the drop A-arm method. First side was around 2 hours. Other side was 15 min. I used a spring compressor (from O'Reilly's) that goes through the middle of the spring. I also had to use a spacer to prevent the threaded rod from interfering with the upper spring perch. The metal sleeve from the front struts is perfect (if you've installed CC plates you'll know what I'm describing).
The front was on jack stands. I loosened the lower control arms bolts (at K-member), placed floor jack under the control arm. Carefully lower, to remove stock spring. Install new spring and compressor. Compress spring until it's short enough to install control arm bolts. Remove compressor. Couple of things to be careful with. The spring compressor will only work if you compress the spring far enough and not have the threaded rod interfere with the upper perch. Also, be careful about installing the spring compressor too high on the spring. Otherwise, when installed in vehicle, you will not be able to remove the compressor. (ask me how I know). Be sure to torque everything at ride height.
Oh yeah...interest free credit cards are your friend
I used the M-2300K for a couple or reasons. I didn’t like to the idea of used axles and front hub assemblies. Also, I didn't want to roam through junk yards for three or four weekends.
Thanks for all the comments.
P.S. In case anyone is wondering. The fronts have no isolators at the bottom of the spring. The rears have both isolators. Those pics are after 2 weeks of driving. So everything is nice a settled.
SVT-
It runs very strong now. This Thursday I'll have track times. Hoping to run 8.5 - 8.7 at about 84 mph on street tires. It ran 8.8 with the timing at 8 BTDC with the stock intake and TB. After the swap its a whole lot faster.
I used a compressor and the drop A-arm method. First side was around 2 hours. Other side was 15 min. I used a spring compressor (from O'Reilly's) that goes through the middle of the spring. I also had to use a spacer to prevent the threaded rod from interfering with the upper spring perch. The metal sleeve from the front struts is perfect (if you've installed CC plates you'll know what I'm describing).
The front was on jack stands. I loosened the lower control arms bolts (at K-member), placed floor jack under the control arm. Carefully lower, to remove stock spring. Install new spring and compressor. Compress spring until it's short enough to install control arm bolts. Remove compressor. Couple of things to be careful with. The spring compressor will only work if you compress the spring far enough and not have the threaded rod interfere with the upper perch. Also, be careful about installing the spring compressor too high on the spring. Otherwise, when installed in vehicle, you will not be able to remove the compressor. (ask me how I know). Be sure to torque everything at ride height.
Oh yeah...interest free credit cards are your friend
I used the M-2300K for a couple or reasons. I didn’t like to the idea of used axles and front hub assemblies. Also, I didn't want to roam through junk yards for three or four weekends.
Thanks for all the comments.
P.S. In case anyone is wondering. The fronts have no isolators at the bottom of the spring. The rears have both isolators. Those pics are after 2 weeks of driving. So everything is nice a settled.
SVT-
It runs very strong now. This Thursday I'll have track times. Hoping to run 8.5 - 8.7 at about 84 mph on street tires. It ran 8.8 with the timing at 8 BTDC with the stock intake and TB. After the swap its a whole lot faster.
Flavadave4
Active Member
What a sexy LX, fantastic job and great choice on wheels......the 98 Cobra's have always been a favorite of mine.
